Technical ELD, HillHold, ESC are all unavailable

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Technical ELD, HillHold, ESC are all unavailable

WitleyPanda

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So have ELD, Hill Hold, ESC all unavailable. Only ESC show whilst driving. This is 4x4 2012 just over 80K miles. Read elsewhere could be earth fault above throttle pedal ? Occasionally, intermittently had ELD and hill hold previously which cleared once driven, or parked on the level. (We live on side of hill.) Hooked up to ELMs but nothing relevant to be seen. Discs and pads OK, just MOT'd.

Ideas?

Peter
 
So have ELD, Hill Hold, ESC all unavailable. Only ESC show whilst driving. This is 4x4 2012 just over 80K miles. Read elsewhere could be earth fault above throttle pedal ? Occasionally, intermittently had ELD and hill hold previously which cleared once driven, or parked on the level. (We live on side of hill.) Hooked up to ELMs but nothing relevant to be seen. Discs and pads OK, just MOT'd.

Ideas?

Peter
I had a similar issue on a Skoda 4x4 which turned out to be ABS related, Multiscan seems to be the preferred Fiat diagnostic tool.
 
I had a similar issue on a Skoda 4x4 which turned out to be ABS related, Multiscan seems to be the preferred Fiat diagnostic tool.
Yes ELMs ( hardware)>> Multiscan ( software) , that what I have/use. Think I will have to road test with it connected and see if ABS sensors picking up speed/rotation.
 
Yes ELMs ( hardware)>> Multiscan ( software) , that what I have/use. Think I will have to road test with it connected and see if ABS sensors picking up speed/rotation.
You are fortunate to be able to use the multiscan program, my computer is Linux based so not applicable as Win only. On my Doblo and my daughters Punto Evo I have been able to use my friends Snap On Zeus successfully. On my Skoda 4x4 it threw up most of the messages you had as it affected things like Yaw control when ABS stopped, but as you say no relevant codes showing.
 
So have ELD, Hill Hold, ESC all unavailable. Only ESC show whilst driving. This is 4x4 2012 just over 80K miles. Read elsewhere could be earth fault above throttle pedal ? Occasionally, intermittently had ELD and hill hold previously which cleared once driven, or parked on the level. (We live on side of hill.) Hooked up to ELMs but nothing relevant to be seen. Discs and pads OK, just MOT'd.

Ideas?

Peter
Update, reviewed and cleared codes. Then taken for a spin, even tried the 2 wheels on grass verge trick, but now cleared and working. Dry day sorted the sensors? However now giving the acceleration/yaw sensor as intermittent fault. Have to find where that is and how attached? ( I would have expected it just to be a semiconductor gyro buried in the ECU? like on phones.) See what happens this week.
 
Update, reviewed and cleared codes. Then taken for a spin, even tried the 2 wheels on grass verge trick, but now cleared and working. Dry day sorted the sensors? However now giving the acceleration/yaw sensor as intermittent fault. Have to find where that is and how attached? ( I would have expected it just to be a semiconductor gyro buried in the ECU? like on phones.) See what happens this week.
Maybe some one can advise location better but on my Skoda 4X4 the Yaw sensor was connected to a link on the n/s/f suspension arm but my issue was a fault in the wiring from the n/s/f abs sensor to the abs pump.
 
Looking at other threads for other threads, suggests it is on the center tunnel. Will have to pull up some carpet and remove center console.
 
Looking at other threads for other threads, suggests it is on the center tunnel. Will have to pull up some carpet and remove center console.
My experience says start with battery; low volts removes all of these services. 4x4 TA 63 plate. Next time the issue shows check battery volts if you can , then give it a good charge. Stop Start batteries seem to go off quite quickly. Also check or change brake light switch as it sends when open and closed - this is a common issue.
 
My experience says start with battery; low volts removes all of these services. 4x4 TA 63 plate. Next time the issue shows check battery volts if you can , then give it a good charge. Stop Start batteries seem to go off quite quickly. Also check or change brake light switch as it sends when open and closed - this is a common issue.
Battery OK volts/charge/capacity wise. But will retest. Start/stop been unavailable for several years, live rural so not a useful function anyway. What do you mean by "as it sends"? what is the actual fault condition please?
 
Battery OK volts/charge/capacity wise. But will retest. Start/stop been unavailable for several years, live rural so not a useful function anyway. What do you mean by "as it sends"? what is the actual fault condition please?
I mean the brake light switch has two sets of contacts, it makes a circuit when the pedal is not pressed, so it is normally closed (this I believe informs the computer affecting ABS etc) then this side of the switch breaks a circuit when the pedal is pressed and a second contact closes to put the lights on. Failure of this switch can mess with all the functions you have lost. I do not know what the fault condition is if you are referring to codes. The codes do clear on their own (as I think you have discovered) if it is an intermittent fault; this makes me think it maybe battery volts - issue going away once driven??

The brake light switch is a very simple swap 90 degree twist fit if I recall correctly.
 
I mean the brake light switch has two sets of contacts, it makes a circuit when the pedal is not pressed, so it is normally closed (this I believe informs the computer affecting ABS etc) then this side of the switch breaks a circuit when the pedal is pressed and a second contact closes to put the lights on. Failure of this switch can mess with all the functions you have lost. I do not know what the fault condition is if you are referring to codes. The codes do clear on their own (as I think you have discovered) if it is an intermittent fault; this makes me think it maybe battery volts - issue going away once driven??

The brake light switch is a very simple swap 90 degree twist fit if I recall correctly.
Ok understand, but ABS computer says it is a acceleration/yaw fault. If i find it it is testable with a multi-meter. Faults don't self clear just don't re-announce if intermittent ( so to fully clear/check it a multiscan clear errors task.) I suspect the battery finally saying good bye.
 
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Ok understand, but ABS computer says it is a acceleration/yaw fault. If i find it it is testable with a multi-meter. Faults don't self clear just don't re-announce if intermittent ( so to fully clear/check it a multiscan clear errors task.) I suspect the battery finally saying good bye.
Fault codes tell you something is wrong but not necessarily the root cause - just my experience. At risk of repeating myself but I would really be sure of the battery first.
 
Fault codes tell you something is wrong but not necessarily the root cause - just my experience. At risk of repeating myself but I would really be sure of the battery first.
Precisely ( If i am correctly understanding your message), codes are data, but I need knowledge, hence seeking wider experiences.
 
Precisely ( If i am correctly understanding your message), codes are data, but I need knowledge, hence seeking wider experiences.
I think we are on the same page! Let us all know how you get on. Would be very surprised if it is yaw/acceleration sensor, more likely it is complaining about low voltage but doesn't have the vocabulary ;)
 
Late to the party here...
Fault codes are not always right! The computer does its best to tell you what it thinks *might* be wrong, based on data from various sensors. However, as has been proven* in several other posts, if teh battery is on its way out, the data is often not right, owing to variations in voltage at the sensors. If the battery is sufficiently degraded that stop/stat doesn't work, that points to the battery being poorly and so voltage at various times not being reliable. For what it's worth, if it were me, I'd change the battery first before going any further :)
(Quick test for the battery: at least six hours after a long drive, check teh voltage with ignition off. If less that 12.5V the battery is unwell. if less than 12.2, it needs replacing. )

* You might read a few older posts such as here https://www.fiatforum.com/threads/intermittent-fault.485617/post-4582030
 
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Ok understand, but ABS computer says it is a acceleration/yaw fault. If i find it it is testable with a multi-meter. Faults don't self clear just don't re-announce if intermittent ( so to fully clear/check it a multiscan clear errors task.) I suspect the battery finally saying good bye.
Confused as existing battery looks like a standard wet rather than EFB for stop/start. What type have other got fitted, with what warranty?
 

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That’s a stop-start battery — see the ‘Attention’ note on it. Mine, 4 years old and 42,000 miles is tending to not stop, or restarts nearly immediately, showing it’s on its way out. If that’s the original 2012 battery, that’s done very well! S/S batteries are quite short lived - rarely performing well after 5 years and lasting much less long if not regularly used for long trips.

That Mopar original in my car is made by Exide. For the diesel MultiJet, this is the replacement- with a 3 year warranty https://www.tayna.co.uk/car-batteries/exide/ek600/
 

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