Technical Ducato Comfortmatic and/or CANBUS issues

[MPN]

G'day McLeod001, I concur with what Sparks1061 is saying above, regarding MultiECUscan software. It's good advice.

I too have a current problem with my 2015 3.0 litre Ducato motorhome with Comfortmatic control system for the 6 spd gearbox. I've downloaded the MultiECUscan software directly from their web site and simply paid by credit card. Boom! Fully registered and unhindered software which is easy to install. Then I purchased the OBDLink SX cable recommended by this forum's "theoneandonly" as he also has a Ducato. The cable was available in Australia from a local ebay supplier. About $79, as I recall.

The software even has a simulation mode allowing you to click through the menus and familiarise yourself "offline" from your vehicle, whilst you're waiting for your cable to be delivered. I was absolutely gobsmacked at the super professional level of this software, for only Euro 50. It is amazing and can do all the calibrations you'll neeed. Not only the calibrations, but also the display, recording and graphing of many gearbox and/or engine parameters in real time with engine running, or while the vehicle is being driven! This saves a datafile which can be read back into MultiECUscan afterwards and played back, for further head scratching and debugging of the issues, back at the desk.

A bluethooth OBD transmitter is also available, as detailed in "theoneandonly" 's guide in the Guides section of this forum- titled "What software/ hardware do i need to read OBD2 codes" Vgate Icar Pro 3.0 - about $35, also on ebaly from Aussie supplier.

Mate, in owning one of these Ducato based motorhomes and travelling the vast distances in remote Oz, it'll be the best small money you've spent toward being independent of needing pro workshops.

I'm not an agent for them or anything. Just a long time home mechanic who prefers to maintain his own bikes and vehicles because I like the satisfying independence of fixing my own stuff.

In writing this, I hope it might give you the confidence that you may in fact be able to help yourself.

For your reference, here's the full set of Adjustments/Calibrations, in a screen grab straight from my Ver 5.2 MultiECUscan
View attachment 436932

And here's the Parameters section mentioned, showing some Clutch specific parameters I've selected in the software's Simulation mode. Note, these numbers are just randomly generated whilst in Simulation mode. Not real data.
View attachment 436934
View attachment 436935

Hydraulic circuit pressure should be maintained at 36.5 bar to 46 bar. Assuming 12.5v is being applied (does the pump relay cycle on/off without effecting the hydraulic pressure?) it’s a matter of checking the wiring right down to the selespeed pump (accessible only from underneath). Easiest way is to establish 12.5v at the single plug break aft of the fuse box (under a foam cover). It all is good, make a 15amp fly lead up to jump between that plug and the selespeed pump connector (note there is only one thick red wire to the pump, as it is grounded to earth by one of the three T20 fasteners that attach the pump to the hydraulic power unit). This (tricky access underneath) process will likely prove your wiring is ok and that the intermittent fault lies within the selespeed pump connector itself. Water runs down and around this connector and can cause the failure. My 8 year old (low km) pump had random failures, all other simple avenues were exhausted (hydraulic and dot 4 changes, brake switch, pump relay etc) I even drove on the temporary fly lead until the same symptoms came back.
But finally it was only cured by a selespeed pump change (€200 part) but that requires about 4-8 hours labour depending upon the garage quoting (note local Fiat dealer had quoted €7000 for a clutch master and slave cylinders, clutch and flywheel for these symptoms! Hence I walked away shaking my head). Back to the selesped pump, I changed mine with a one (left) handed operation (and yet I’m right handed) within in 4 hours lying on my back under the van on prop stands (essential to get the working clearance), but with the battery box removed to aid access and visuals (and reduce claustrophobia). A Kingchrome micro torx ratchet with T20 bit (€10) was paramount in my success as the access is strictly key hole surgical, with one or two ratchet clicks at a time to remove the three T20 1” long screws. It’s very doable if you have mechanical skills, a little patience and want to save €1000+ (and avoid the Fiat dealer parts catalogue shotgun jamboree). Finally as a precaution whilst I was under the van, I also changed the hydraulic accumulator (€150) whilst there as these wear and can fail, and its main purpose is to assist the electrical pump. This task only requires a 22mm socket and extension bar and 15 minutes to accomplish.
Good luck out there, from NZ.

 

[MSjoberg]

Hydraulic circuit pressure should be maintained at 36.5 bar to 46 bar. Assuming 12.5v is being applied (does the pump relay cycle on/off without effecting the hydraulic pressure?) it’s a matter of checking the wiring right down to the selespeed pump (accessible only from underneath). Easiest way is to establish 12.5v at the single plug break aft of the fuse box (under a foam cover). It all is good, make a 15amp fly lead up to jump between that plug and the selespeed pump connector (note there is only one thick red wire to the pump, as it is grounded to earth by one of the three T20 fasteners that attach the pump to the hydraulic power unit). This (tricky access underneath) process will likely prove your wiring is ok and that the intermittent fault lies within the selespeed pump connector itself. Water runs down and around this connector and can cause the failure. My 8 year old (low km) pump had random failures, all other simple avenues were exhausted (hydraulic and dot 4 changes, brake switch, pump relay etc) I even drove on the temporary fly lead until the same symptoms came back.
But finally it was only cured by a selespeed pump change (€200 part) but that requires about 4-8 hours labour depending upon the garage quoting (note local Fiat dealer had quoted €7000 for a clutch master and slave cylinders, clutch and flywheel for these symptoms! Hence I walked away shaking my head). Back to the selesped pump, I changed mine with a one (left) handed operation (and yet I’m right handed) within in 4 hours lying on my back under the van on prop stands (essential to get the working clearance), but with the battery box removed to aid access and visuals (and reduce claustrophobia). A Kingchrome micro torx ratchet with T20 bit (€10) was paramount in my success as the access is strictly key hole surgical, with one or two ratchet clicks at a time to remove the three T20 1” long screws. It’s very doable if you have mechanical skills, a little patience and want to save €1000+ (and avoid the Fiat dealer parts catalogue shotgun jamboree). Finally as a precaution whilst I was under the van, I also changed the hydraulic accumulator (€150) whilst there as these wear and can fail, and its main purpose is to assist the electrical pump. This task only requires a 22mm socket and extension bar and 15 minutes to accomplish.
Good luck out there, from NZ.

Thank you for this informative post! Am I right in assuming that it was the electrical pump motor you changed and not the hydraulic part i.e. the ”pump itself”?

 

[MPN]

Thank you for this informative post! Am I right in assuming that it was the electrical pump motor you changed and not the hydraulic part i.e. the ”pump itself”?

Yes that’s correct, the hydraulic gear pump assembly and its plastic drive are totally undisturbed in changing the electrical Selespeed pump. I purchased an original Magneti Marelli part from Sequparts Germany (brilliant service highly recommended). My removed pump shows corrosion on the galvanised casing adjacent to the electrical outlet…..the smoking gun.

Thank you for this informative post! Am I right in assuming that it was the electrical pump motor you changed and not the hydraulic part i.e. the ”pump itself”?