Technical Dead Multipla or not !

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Technical Dead Multipla or not !

Ok I m not sure if this is climate control , but checks back to the relay however it’s disconnected so will see if the fuse blows
Yes that the ccm .
fingers xed you get a win.
 
Ah well it hasn't cut out the cooling fan and the heater fan doesn't work connected or disconnected now . If the ign key is on and the earth post replaced all the indicator lights come on and stay on . The relay shown earlier clicks at the same time without the fuse which has blown again. Ha this crazy, it feels like power is being gained or earthing is being gained from your high resistance , question is where. I will go up the back tomorrow or tonight , I will see and reconnect the alternator figure out a way to trigger the starter . I can get it energise with the key but doesn't throw completely, so lack of power/current?

Crazy man!
 
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Ah well it hasn't cut out the cooling fan and the heater fan doesn't work connected or disconnected now . If the ign key is on and the earth post replaced all the indicator lights come on and stay on . The relay shown earlier clicks at the same time without the fuse which has blown again. Ha this crazy, it feels like power is being gained or earthing is being gained from your high resistance , question is where. I will go up the back tomorrow or tonight , I will see and reconnect the alternator figure out a way to trigger the starter . I can get it energise with the key but doesn't throw completely, so lack of power/current?

Crazy man!
To energise the starter use the battery live connection at the starter , connect a short piece of wire to the trigger connection on the solenoid(the small wire on the solenoid)

Do this with the key off.
 
Some people have found their alternators seized solid after a period of inactivity preventing cranking by starter motor
 
Starter does not engage manually by energising the solenoid so I guess that has to come off.
I would be thinking of checking the high current circuit that feeds the starter motor before pulling out the starter motor.

Leave the battery negative lead in place and connect a jump lead to the negative clamp and other clamp to a good clean metal part of engine . Try the extra wire between main live feed on starter to the solenoid trigger wire again.
 
I m thinking you still think the real current isn’t being transported via original cables . So what your saying is a new path for both - and + leads to engine block to eliminate resistance ?
 
Ok I think I see what your saying , make up a single feed to starter from battery And like wise for earth. Can get that made up easily. Forget trigger wire I can do that from main new wire ?
 
Ok I think I see what your saying , make up a single feed to starter from battery And like wise for earth. Can get that made up easily. Forget trigger wire I can do that from main new wire ?
No that's not what I am saying(though that would work)

I am saying use a jump lead connected on top of the original negative lead battery clamp that you leave connected to the battery.

Connect the other end of jump lead to clean part of metal on engine.

That way you have an extra negative lead connecting battery negative to engine.
 
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That's half of what you said but using jump lead rather than getting a lead made up.
 
You would have to make a clean break for both leads to eliminate any bad connections originally in place , surely .

With all this going on and looking at this taking a step back, I , with my friend rebuilt all this with replacement unit and connections were all clean this was only last October.
 
You would have to make a clean break for both leads to eliminate any bad connections originally in place , surely .

No Because the jump lead will bypass any faults in the lead it is bypassing.

If problems reduced or gone with jump lead fitted then you know problem is with wire bypassed.

Did you put a spanner on the crank pulley bolt and check the crank can rotate?
 
With all this going on and looking at this taking a step back, I , with my friend rebuilt all this with replacement unit and connections were all clean this was only last October.
You and friend rebuilt all of what exactly?
Replacement unit? Which unit?
 
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Replacement unit s/h of course, excellent engine and gearbox.
Old engine was overheated then belt went. Whole car bought like that. Yeah so quite fresh
I understand now that engine and gearbox was replaced last year.

Check crank can be rotated by spanner on the crank bolt , this rules out a seized ancillary component.

Then do jump lead lead on - ve battery lead CLAMP to clean metal of engine.
Original negative lead has to be connected at same time.

By the way it is really bad idea to leave the ignition key in ingnition when disconnecting or connecting the battery- do not every do this on any honda unless you want it towed to a honda main dealer for imobiliser reprogramming.

Leaving ignition switched on while disconnecting or connecting battery is even worse as the engine ecu can be damaged beyond repair.
 
tests you can do -

connect volt meter between clean metal of engine and clamp on battery - ve post(Yes negative) While holding key in the starter motor position what is the voltage reading?

put volt meter across battery terminals , while holding the key in starter motor position what is reading on volt meter?

Please post results from these tests
 
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