Technical Daytime running light bulb change

Currently reading:
Technical Daytime running light bulb change

jvdp

New member
Joined
Jun 7, 2021
Messages
7
Points
1
Sorry if I'm being thick but I can't work out from drawing 100 in the handbook (or find videos or other advice here) how to change the little daytime light - cover is off and there's the two wires (connector D) into a clip (C) that I cannot understand how to unlatch to access and remove the bulb holder (E) on the back of the bulb - any advice please ?
 
Last edited:
Thanks rapid reply - do you mean just push & twist bulb holder (E) so no need to remove wire or is there a push & twist on the wire clip
 
My 2016 Panda manual covers it on page 107. I changed mine after it failed, you adjust the clip, then twist and remove the bulb holder. The bulb itself is a bayonet type push and twist, it is a 21/5W dual filament bulb.
 
My 2016 Panda manual covers it on page 107. I changed mine after it failed, you adjust the clip, then twist and remove the bulb holder. The bulb itself is a bayonet type push and twist, it is a 21/5W dual filament bulb.
I have to do this quite often with mine as it can be a bit temperamental 😂 usually with mine I have to take the bulb out of the holder, adjust one of the 2 prongs inside the holder as ones usually sitting lower than the other, put the bulb back in & all is good again for a while, I've heard before that a common problem with Panda DRL lights is that the holders melt but I've haven't seen it yet
 
My 2016 Panda manual covers it on page 107. I changed mine after it failed, you adjust the clip, then twist and remove the bulb holder. The bulb itself is a bayonet type push and twist, it is a 21/5W dual filament bulb.
Appreciate your taking the time to reply but quoting the manual back at me is not too helpful since my original post makes it clear I can't work out what that actually means
 
Sorry if I'm being thick but I can't work out from drawing 100 in the handbook (or find videos or other advice here) how to change the little daytime light - cover is off and there's the two wires (connector D) into a clip (C) that I cannot understand how to unlatch to access and remove the bulb holder (E) on the back of the bulb - any advice please ?

I've not had to deal with the Panda


But have had both bulbs out on the Punto..
Actually a 'twist and pull'.. So sounds similar to the Panda

However it's very civilised on the punto

The DRL is placed where the indicators used to be... Front of each wing. So no grovelling around under the car. 😊

I found it's a BIG version of the numberplate bulbs..
And being lit as long as the alternator is turning.. They get HOT

So have a good look at the holder.. I believe the 500 is bad for melted holders.. You might even find the bulb is actually OK. (y)

See panda post by @Firefox60
 
The wire connector has a small plastic tab that needs to be lifted, so the plug comes out. Then the whole bulb holder rotates through 90 degrees and pulls out from the back of the light. The bulb itself is then a push and turn fitting. note when putting the new bulb in that the pins on the side of the bulb are offset - it only fits one way round. I'll try and add 'real' photos tomorrow, but for now these screen grabs from an online shop shows the way it works... the raised part the clip clicks over is on the bulb holder

I seem to remember that in fact, the holder will come out without needing to disconnect the wires first...
1693350563721.png

1693351336959.png
 
Last edited:
@jvdp update to my post above…

Yes, you can remove the bulb holder without disconnecting the plug.

Simply rotate the whole lamp holder, with wires still attached, by about 45 degrees anti-clockwise. See my blurred photos below.

Swap the bulb then put the holder back. The start point for the holder (on the near side light) is with the wires at about 7 o’clock, then rotate clockwise until they are at 9 o’clock and it’s gone click.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_3403.jpeg
    IMG_3403.jpeg
    1.6 MB · Views: 73
  • IMG_3404.jpeg
    IMG_3404.jpeg
    961.6 KB · Views: 73
  • IMG_3406.jpeg
    IMG_3406.jpeg
    1.4 MB · Views: 69
Last edited:
ok these two last helped crack it - many thanks - the main issue was I was looking at the wrong cable which appears to have the connector shown in the handbook but is not DRL - maybe foglight wiring without foglights fitted - the upper cable to the DRL has the connector shown here which as noted does not need disconnecting before turning the holder anti-clockwise to loosen
 
I wondered if you were looking at the front foglamp by mistake but had presumed not. :)

On dual filament bulbs, each wire is the supply and the earth is through the bulb case. 21W for DRL and then 5W for sidelights. It's why you get dazzled at dusk by owners not turning their lights on.... I've lost count of the cars with no lights at the rear in the dark who presume the DRLs are on at the rear, or are unaware it's only at the front. :rolleyes:
 
I wondered if you were looking at the front foglamp by mistake but had presumed not. :)

On dual filament bulbs, each wire is the supply and the earth is through the bulb case. 21W for DRL and then 5W for sidelights. It's why you get dazzled at dusk by owners not turning their lights on.... I've lost count of the cars with no lights at the rear in the dark who presume the DRLs are on at the rear, or are unaware it's only at the front. :rolleyes:
Yup, always used to be that way... but not so here : the outer bulb holder is plastic, so not earthed back through the body. With just those two wires and the holder hanging loose (as in my photo), you can have bright or dim lights showing (by turning the ignition on for DRL, and the headlights on to give low brightness sidelight). Hence the comment about CanBus magic.
 
Last edited:
Dimming of the DRLs is via a simple voltage drop, and it’s only the 21w filament that gets a supply, the 5w filament is redundant in this configuration.

Whack a meter across the two terminals and you get best part of 12v with headlights off, drops to 7v ish when headlights on. This is IIRC, as tested it a couple of months back when choosing LED replacements.
 
Dimming of the DRLs is via a simple voltage drop, and it’s only the 21w filament that gets a supply, the 5w filament is redundant in this configuration.

Whack a meter across the two terminals and you get best part of 12v with headlights off, drops to 7v ish when headlights on. This is IIRC, as tested it a couple of months back when choosing LED replacements.
Or, maybe 12v but chopped (or pulsed), which a digital multimeter will show as a lower voltage. An oscilloscope might show a square wave.
Either way - thanks ( but also then why, like in the rear lights, use just half of a twin filament bulb…?)
 
Or, maybe 12v but chopped (or pulsed), which a digital multimeter will show as a lower voltage. An oscilloscope might show a square wave.
Either way - thanks ( but also then why, like in the rear lights, use just half of a twin filament bulb…?)
Hmmm, would a pulsed feed still sustain a (visually) constant output when an LED bulb is fitted? (The LED being faster to react). Or would the pulsing simply be too fast for the eye to discern?
 
Since mine today put up a ‘check bulbs’ warning for the DRL I took a look. Bulb was fine and came to life after a wiggle - suspect dirty contact. But, while checking it in both bright and dim settings it became clear it only ever uses the 21w filament (by dimming it for the sidelight setting). That answers how it works with just two wires (one is indeed the earth return). But also, like the twin filament tail light where only one gets used, does lead to the question ‘why do it that way?’
 
Back
Top