Technical Dash lights / electrical problem Question

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Technical Dash lights / electrical problem Question

mad saint uden

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Apr 11, 2013
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Location
orpington, kent
Hello,

I have 1.1 active eco 2010.
in the last two months I've had the following issues with regards to warning lights.:

  1. The immobiliser light (? orange car with a padlock) had come on a couple of times while driving. No issues driving, upon restarting the car at my destination it has gone off. (happened a couple of times a few weeks apart)
  2. The airbag light that has always flashed upon starting the car for a few seconds, has come up with an X on it. No problems driving, upon a restart it has not come up with the X (has happened twice about a week apart).
  3. The power steering red light has come on while driving at a low speed, and my steering has gone. This has been in car parks or at a road junction waiting to pull out. Restarting has fixed this right away - both the light and the steering come back. (this has happened 3 times in 8 weeks, prior to this it happened once about 6 years ago).
Any suggestions re problems or cost would be appreciated. The cost of a new to us secondhand car right now means we'd rather preserve this one for a little bit longer.
 
1 and 3 are likely to be a failing battery


if you have another vehicle try swapping the batteries


do you have a volt / multi meter, and / or a way to read fault codes.
 
2 I suspect is the switch in the glove box, Easy to test with multiecuscan but there is probably other way, I will have to think about it

probably worth concentrating on 1 and 3 First.
 
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2 I suspect is the switch in the glove box, Easy to test with multiecuscan but there is probably other way, I will have to think about it

probably worth concentrating on 1 and 3 First.
Had (2) with a failing battery too.
Suspect the airbag ECU dislikes low voltage as much as the others.
Also could be earth strap(s) or dirty battery connections but, as you said, probably knackered battery.
 
Thank you.
I replaced the battery in 2020 because it randomly went flat and I had to jump the car (so decided to err on the side of caution)
 
Thank you.
I replaced the battery in 2020 because it randomly went flat and I had to jump the car (so decided to err on the side of caution)
everything is screaming a power or earth fault

lead on chassis
lead on battery
alternator
battery
aux belt
aux belt slack
oxide on terminals
and so on

do you have a way to measure volts
 
worth doing a quick visual inspection even if its going to a mechanic

if you dont have aircon, check the belt left hand side of the engine is nice and tight and there is no obvious damage to the alternator case or belt

there's no White corrosion on the battery terminals

check for corrosion on the earth strap, follow the cable from the battery negative (-) terminal. My 05 and 06 cars were a Black cable and my 2011 is a braided cable. It will be bolted to the chassis rail right hand side.

unfortunately on the panda and most modern cars when you turn the engine the headlights goes off. Making it had to judge without a volt meter how much charge is in the battery.. You can start the car in front of a wall or window. Put the main beam on note how bright they are. Switch on the rear window heater and blower on full and see if they dim
 
I have to admit, blower & heated rear window are on most of the time.
You dont want to have the rear window on too much if you are doing short journeys

its quite a draw to give you some idea

rear heated windscreen is protected by a 30A fuse but the main beam is by a 15A fuse

I see you are in the UK. It hasn't rained much here in Cheshire over the last month. May have been different in Kent. Rear heater hasn't been needed here. Carpet isn't damp in the boot by any chance ?
 
No damp carpet. But I find the blower not very warming, but in my head I feel that putting the rear window on, makes the blower also warm up more quickly (!?) Only the last week or so I have had it off as it is getting warmer. I have the blower on to clear the windscreen...I have always found with the this car that when I have 3-4 people in it I need to clear the screen, but that even the washers leave marks on the screen that obscure my view unless I have the blower on (reading all of this I sound like I am as mad as a box of frongs - but I'm fairly sure I'm not).
 
No damp carpet. But I find the blower not very warming, but in my head I feel that putting the rear window on, makes the blower also warm up more quickly (!?) Only the last week or so I have had it off as it is getting warmer. I have the blower on to clear the windscreen...I have always found with the this car that when I have 3-4 people in it I need to clear the screen, but that even the washers leave marks on the screen that obscure my view unless I have the blower on (reading all of this I sound like I am as mad as a box of frongs - but I'm fairly sure I'm not).
Does the temperature gauge read 1/2 way and stay there within a couple of miles


Heaters on hot. Set to the face vents and the blowers on 3,

Should be pretty hot if you put your fingers in the vents. Read uncomfortable.
 
Almost sounds like the heaters are set to recirculating instead of fetching in fresh air ?
the windows will steam up especially the more people you carry
make sure its not set to here
temp.jpg



try and not using the rear heater for a few trips and see if the other faults happen less frequently ?


these are the setting I use First thing in the morning. If you put the fans on too High of a setting it takes too long to warm up in my opinion

temp.jpg
 
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Low coolant is the fastest way to a new head gasket. When it starts gurgling its too late. Lots on the forum about coolant leaks.

Poor airflow from heater could be -
(1) Blown heater resistor (no fan except full speed)​
(2) Cabin air filter is clogged (check your car has one)​
(3) Heater intake plenum below wipers is trapping water (check the drainage "duck bills" are clear).​
 
Checking coolant is a lot easier than checking the Duckbills.. ;-)

All worthwhile with a damp cabin :)

Tip.
Have the passenger window down 1 to 2 cm as you drive that first few miles.. it will help the air travel over the screen better.. and use very little power

I am on blood thinners.. so cannot have the drivers window down in the mornings either.. :-(
 
nit checked it...but my trip to work is 4 miles so it is warm when i get there...but the first 15 mins are chilly.
15 minutes is a VERY long time for a 1.2 FIRE to get fully warm. It's likely the engine thermostat has failed.
Go for a drive from cold start. Stop after 1 mile or a couple of minutes and check the radiator top hose. If it's warm, your thermostat has failed (they stick open by default). The top hose and radiator should remain cold until the engine is up to temperature.
 
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