General Cylinder head torque settings

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General Cylinder head torque settings

Toonarm

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Ducato 244 (04) cylinder head tightening sequence and torque settings. I have tried downloading manuals from the forum but can’t open the ones applicable. Does anyone know where I would find them please.
 
Model
Ducato
Year
2004
Mileage
74000
Ducato 244 (04) cylinder head tightening sequence and torque settings. I have tried downloading manuals from the forum but can’t open the ones applicable. Does anyone know where I would find them please.
You have not supplied engine type/capacity. Presumably diesel, but can be 2.0jtd, 2.3jtd, or 2.8jtd.
 
Try here. You may need to scroll down. Tightening order is given, but is basically working outwards, with diagonal selection. Torque 60Nm, then again at 60Nm, then 180 degrees.

@bugsymike has Autodata book, and may be able to confirm.
Is this OPs vehicle?
 

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Sorry, I Don’t know who OP is.
Does anyone know if I have to remove the intake manifold and can I remove the exhaust manifold and leave the turbo in situ?
 
OP Original Post= you.
I haven't worked on that engine in a FWD Ducato most of mine were rear wheel drive Iveco Daily's which are much more accessible to work on.
I suspect you will have to remove oil pipes on turbo and both manifolds , you will probably find the turbo is bolted to the engine block also.
Some engines had an oil pipe to head at bell housing end.
It is all fairly basic, so if you take your time and note where everything goes it should be fine.
 
OP Original Post= you.
I haven't worked on that engine in a FWD Ducato most of mine were rear wheel drive Iveco Daily's which are much more accessible to work on.
I suspect you will have to remove oil pipes on turbo and both manifolds , you will probably find the turbo is bolted to the engine block also.
Some engines had an oil pipe to head at bell housing end.
It is all fairly basic, so if you take your time and note where everything goes it should be fine.
Thanks buggsy. Really appreciate your advice. Sometimes it feels like there telling me off. Anyway, I’m still struggling with my head cylinder head problem. Do I remove the intake manifold? Will it come off with the head? Can I just undo the exhaust manifold and remove the head or do I have the turbo to dismantle?
 
Thanks buggsy. Really appreciate your advice. Sometimes it feels like there telling me off. Anyway, I’m still struggling with my head cylinder head problem. Do I remove the intake manifold? Will it come off with the head? Can I just undo the exhaust manifold and remove the head or do I have the turbo to dismantle?
From working on the later ones 2.5 and 2.8, I think you will find access is the main problem, so the more "junk" you can get out the way the better to see what you are doing.
I would say take photos as you go, if it is your first time as it can be a bit of a learning curve.:)
It may sound silly but if you go on the internet and put your engine series and engine in the search you will find some old engines photographed for sale on eBay etc. with the ancillaries on which may give you a idea of how to proceed.
The old Ivecos with basically the same engine, being rear wheel drive four nuts behind the headlights and a few hoses then the whole radiator and grill etc. came away so you could see easily what you were working on.
When you have the head off I would stress clean all the thread holes for the cylinder head bolts and have the cylinder head machined flat, this may involve removing the cam and valves but must be done carefully so all parts including any shims and valves etc. go back in exactly their original position.
One other very important point, head gaskets do not just fail, so you need to find the cause of the over heating otherwise all your hard work will be ruined on it's first journey!!!
It is a big undertaking for your first time, but with care and asking if you are not sure about something it should be possible, there are several owners of older Ducatos on Forum so I am sure you can get advice.:)
 
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Does anyone know if the cylinder head bolts are the stretch type bolts and have to be renewed?
If you look at my reply and the photo of the Technical manual on #5 it doesn't say yes or no for the up to 2004 model but same engine up to 2002 it gives a special note 38 in this photo giving a bolt Diam. 11.5mm which I would take to say means measure bolt and if it has stretched and wasted to less than 11.5mm then replace.
I would say having rebuilt several over the years that I have never had to replace them on that model.
The only argument regarding that is that by now those engines are much older and may have been rebuilt several times and aged over the years.:)
 

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Thanks for all your help chaps. Had head skimmed. All good so for. Has anyone the torque settings to tighten the cam shaft down? Thanks.
 
Head on and torqued down. All going well (so far). I marked the timing belt hoping to just put everything back as was, but I think the belt might have moved and I don’t want to risk putting all back together and regret not checking it and doing it properly. Do you know the timing marks/pegs? I have a late so could knock to do pegs if needed.
Thanks Tom
 
Head on and torqued down. All going well (so far). I marked the timing belt hoping to just put everything back as was, but I think the belt might have moved and I don’t want to risk putting all back together and regret not checking it and doing it properly. Do you know the timing marks/pegs? I have a late so could knock to do pegs if needed.
Thanks Tom
Apart from the flywheel locking bit I don't think you need to make up timing tools, just line up the marks as in this manual.
If you take your time and follow the timing manual details you should have no problem, I have done many in the past, mostly in Iveco Daily's.
You don't have to time the injector pump on the JTD, so all you need is TDC mark on crank and the cam pointers lined up.
I trust the pistons were out of the way when you fitted the cylinder head or you may bend valves!!!
When you are sure timing is correct and all tensioners etc. tight, then turn engine by hand at least two full revolutions. to make sure no valve to piston contact.
Ideally you should fit a new cam belt and guide bearings etc.
By the way, what was the reason for cylinder head off in the first place? If head gasket then head should have been checked for "flatness" with a straight edge and feeler gauge, if out then head would have needed skimming/machining flat again, also the cause of the over heating needs to have been fixed as head gaskets do not just blow on their own.
Also take care when fitting plastic timing cover etc. as I have heard of cam belt failures by not fitting spacers etc. correctly and belt tensioner failing.
Most of it is common sense if you take your time.:)
 

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That’s great Bugsymike, many thanks. The reason for head going was bust radiator. New rad fitted. Head has been skimmed and head was re-fitted with cam in same position so all good. Just one thing that isn’t clear, how to lock flywheel.
 
That’s great Bugsymike, many thanks. The reason for head going was bust radiator. New rad fitted. Head has been skimmed and head was re-fitted with cam in same position so all good. Just one thing that isn’t clear, how to lock flywheel.
Check, but I think crank pulley bolt is 200Nm so quite a bit,I used to either chock the wheels and finish tightening crank pulley with vehicle in 4th/5th gear, hand brake on tight and maybe someone with foot on brake pedal, the alternative if you haven't a suitable locking tool is with starter out it is often possible to fit a small spanner 10mm combination works) across the teeth of flywheel then turn engine using the socket until spanner engages against edge of bell housing and locks crank. This may sound brutal but many flywheel locking tools do basically the same with a matching shaped tooth on a plate. :)
 
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