Technical Cooling Fan Still not working

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Technical Cooling Fan Still not working

alfa156v6

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Mar 18, 2010
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Somerset
Guy's I am desperate for help!!! and sorry for might appear the same old post, I have checked all threads for bleeding coolant, over heating and fan not working and have spent all day trying all the sugggestions.

As I had the dreded cooling fan not working and had replaced everything bar the head gasket I have finaly had the head skimed and replaced the gasket.
The old gasket had definatly passed it's sell by date and I could see where the gasses had passed into the water.

My problem is I have done the following in an effort to fix this but the fan still does not come on

1. Replace thermostat
2. Replace thermostat sensor
3. Replace water pump
4. Replace Rad
5. Replace Rad sensor
6. Replace Coolant Tank Cap
7. Head skim
8. Replace Headgasket
9. Spend 2 hrs trying to bleed system

I fear I may have cooked the new gasket as I turned the engine off because the fan did not kick in I could hear what sounded like water boiling in the block on the gearbox side. I have proably done this twice as my wife said she heard on the second occasion.

I really don't understand what else to do and am off the view that I either have a serious air lock or the new rad sensor is faulty, I certainly hope it's not another headgasket.

Please offer any advice you think might help for example am I bleeding the system correctly, I have been filling the tank until the water comes out of the overflow (only one on this car) and squashing the hoses to try and move the air, top up coolant run engine and try again.

Am I lacking pressure in the system as the pipes do not go ridged and stay soft an plyable.

All help welcome.
 
Fan runs if I short the wires, I think if I have understood correctly it is an SPi (single point injection??).
 
I assume you mean when the engine is hot if so no water comes out of the cap although it appears to make a wooshing sound when turning the engine off.
 
No, infact I seem to get very little maybe a couple of small bubbles.

To be honest I was expecting more or some kind of gurgling noise as I filled the system which is why I have tried sqeezing the pipes this however seems to suck more in than it lets out.
 
I have been filling the tank until the water comes out of the overflow (only one on this car) and squashing the hoses to try and move the air, top up coolant run engine and try again.
Where is this overflow?
There should be a small pipe (assuming a RHD) auto, between the drivers headlamp and the coolant header tank. If there is not you need to remove in drivers side wheel and inner wing to locate it.
There may be a second, a small bore pipe with a plastic stopper, emerging from the heater matrix, if not you may have to unclip the upper pipe where it enters the heater and ease it off until water comes out.
Before you fill the system turn the heater control to hot.
If you are running the engine for tests, turn the heater control to hot.
The rubber heater pipe should get hot first, then the thermostat duct and rubber pipe connected to duct, stop the engine if you don't get that sequence.
If you do get that sequence turn the heater blower on full.
Noel
 
I only have the one bleed point behind the drivers headlight as you say.

In terms of heating up the pipes do get hot in the order you describe.
 
Fan runs if I short the wires, I think if I have understood correctly it is an SPi (single point injection??).

when you state that, do you mean you have connected together [known as making a bridge, or bridging] the two contacts in the plug that fits to the rad switch? if yes then the problem why your fan isnt coming on will lie in the switch itself not switching

How high on the temp gauge scale is the temp getting?
 
Yep I bridged the wires, what I don't understand is it is a new rad sensor switch???

As for temp, according to the gauge it got to around 110.
 
Is it possible to have a new one faulty, I have my original perhaps I should try that.

I will take the other back for an exchange/refund anyway if the old one works.
 
Is it possible to have a new one faulty, I have my original perhaps I should try that.

yes

one thing to check, make sure the actual terminals in the plug are tight, I have run a high temp once as the terminals were dirty/corroded and a bit slack, scraped clean and made tighter and all was well again
 
Your right I could have sworn I typed in cinq 899cc, oh well the misses is right and I have gone mad.

I seem to remember the fan used to kick in at around 95, it's been a long time though since the fan worked properly. I am trying to fix it for when my daughter is home from uni for six weeks.

Let's hope it is the switch and I havn't knackered the new gasket.
 
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Guy's I am really confused now, I have put the car up on ramps to put the old switch in the rad and no more than 100ml of water came out.

Now I didn't remove the rad cap or bleed cap but I expected more than that to poor out.

Is this normal.
 
Guy's I am really confused now, I have put the car up on ramps to put the old switch in the rad and no more than 100ml of water came out.

Now I didn't remove the rad cap or bleed cap but I expected more than that to poor out.

Is this normal.

No.

Remove the cap just to make sure, but just about all the water should pour out.

Cheers

D
 
Thanks Rallycinq.

OK I tried again with the cap off and all the water did come out this time,go figure it must have been holding a vacuum.

I guess this means the old sensor and unfortunatly for me the new one are both faulty.

Have I understood this correctly.

Cheers
 
Thanks Rallycinq.

OK I tried again with the cap off and all the water did come out this time,go figure it must have been holding a vacuum.

I guess this means the old sensor and unfortunatly for me the new one are both faulty.

Have I understood this correctly.

Cheers

It has to be the sensor or the connection.

Take sensor and meter to cup of boiling water to check.

Cheers

D
 
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