Technical Clutch going?

[messyhead]

Hi folks. I have a 2017 Easy+ 1.4tjet. It's done around 56k miles.

Recently I've found the clutch pedal is "long", in the sense that the bite point is a lot further up when you're lifting the clutch pedal, and there's a very narrow band. It never used to be like that, the bite point was lower in the pedal travel.

Is this a sign the clutch is going?

 

[The Panda Nut]

Try bleeidng the hydraulics. Its more likely the hydraulics than the clutch which should easily do 100 to 150,000 miles in normal / careful use. You may need a new slave or master cylinder which is a lot less trouble than a clutch.

 

[messyhead]

Try bleeidng the hydraulics. Its more likely the hydraulics than the clutch which should easily do 100 to 150,000 miles in normal / careful use. You may need a new slave or master cylinder which is a lot less trouble than a clutch.

Thanks, I'll try that. My brother in law's slave cylinder went on his volvo, and he had similar symptoms, so hopefully it's that.

 

[The Panda Nut]

Thanks, I'll try that. My brother in law's slave cylinder went on his volvo, and he had similar symptoms, so hopefully it's that.

Ihad issues recently after some work was done on my car. Bleeding the system seems to have sorted it out again. Its a job that should be done every 2 years after the brake fluid is changed. The fluid can go off with age the same as brakes but as its not a safety job per se its not on the service schedule.

 

[messyhead]

Ihad issues recently after some work was done on my car. Bleeding the system seems to have sorted it out again. Its a job that should be done every 2 years after the brake fluid is changed. The fluid can go off with age the same as brakes but as its not a safety job per se its not on the service schedule.

I recently had the rear discs replaced.

I take it changing the slave cylinder isn't an easy job?

 

[The Panda Nut]

I recently had the rear discs replaced.

I take it changing the slave cylinder isn't an easy job?

It depends on where its located. I can do a Panda in half an hour now. Its just two bolts and a pipe clip. Parts from shop4parts.co.uk are reasonably priced and Fiat OEM. I would probably have a go myself. I had a Bravo (2013 similar mechanically to the Tipo ina lot of ways) ) and the clutch was as good at 110,000 when I changed it, as when new and it did about 10,000 towing a caravan. Rusting discs is a Fiat weakness. Im of the opinion that a coarser pad is required to avoid the problem. I now use Ferodo pads and coated discs. Carry some passengers for a good few miles or add weight for a few weeks to amke the rear discs work more to reduce the potential disc rusting.

 

[Mike1alike]

I take it changing the slave cylinder isn't an easy job?

It is an easy job. But maybe not the right one to jump on.
There is a trend, I don’t know why this is happening. When faced with this problem, most people jump on the slave cylinder. But... it's usually the master that needs replacing.
A bad slave cylinder would leak fluid. If it's not leaking fluid it is not bad.
A bad master cylinder can leak fluid outside, that would be on the clutch pedal. Or can leak it inside by the tip seal and wouldn't push the fluid towards slave as it should. In that case you can see the fluid returning to fluid tank. First half of pedal travel when you push the clutch in, fluid in tank goes down. Then, the second half when pushing pedal all the way, you'll see fluid returning in the tank when master cylinder is faulty.

 

[messyhead]

It is an easy job. But maybe not the right one to jump on.
There is a trend, I don’t know why this is happening. When faced with this problem, most people jump on the slave cylinder. But... it's usually the master that needs replacing.
A bad slave cylinder would leak fluid. If it's not leaking fluid it is not bad.
A bad master cylinder can leak fluid outside, that would be on the clutch pedal. Or can leak it inside by the tip seal and wouldn't push the fluid towards slave as it should. In that case you can see the fluid returning to fluid tank. First half of pedal travel when you push the clutch in, fluid in tank goes down. Then, the second half when pushing pedal all the way, you'll see fluid returning in the tank when master cylinder is faulty.

I think I've got a concentric slave cylinder, so not an easy job

 

[Mike1alike]

I think I've got a concentric slave cylinder, so not an easy job

Oh, yes... in that case not that easy.
And that one can get damaged without leaking fluid.
Do check the fluid behaviour in the tank first anyway, when pressing the clutch pedal.
Maybe you are lucky and it's the master.

 

[The Panda Nut]

I think I've got a concentric slave cylinder, so not an easy job

ah I dont like them just because of access, but l you should be able to bleed it vis access through the bell housing or just externally. even a dealer trip just for this might not be expensive and is the place to start. ive never had a concentric slave and dont know how reliability stacks up.