Technical Cluster change

[Gift]

Greetings everyone

I've been having issues with my cluster so I'm purchasing a new one tomorrow for my Fiat Stilo 1.6i 16v. The current one goes on and off, at times just remains dead for days. I posted about it a while back then someone suggested I can find a guy in the group to repair it for me.

Unfortunately I'm all the way in South Africa and Stilo ain't very popular. But I found an a good second hand one from another Stilo so will make the purchase tomorrow after work.

My question is, when changing the cluster, are there any settings I should be aware of that need to be done or is it just a plug and play scenario? Do I just take the new one, fit it in and will it function 100%?

Kind Regards
Gift.

 

[Davren]

If the replacement cluster is a different part number to the original one, you may need to carry out the Proxy Alignment procedure.

The replacement cluster will show the mileage (kilometerage?) in it's memory, not the mileage the car has done. You can adjust it upwards, but not downwards with Multiecuscan.
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[Gift]

If the replacement cluster is a different part number to the original one, you may need to carry out the Proxy Alignment procedure.

The replacement cluster will show the mileage (kilometerage?) in it's memory, not the mileage the car has done. You can adjust it upwards, but not downwards with Multiecuscan.
.

Morning

Thank you very much for the information. Other than the mileage that will need to be aligned, will the other functions on the cluster work fine?

 

[Artermis]

Morning

Thank you very much for the information. Other than the mileage that will need to be aligned, will the other functions on the cluster work fine?

The instrument cluster will function just fine, although the odometer reading will flash until the alignment procedure is carried out.

You may also find that if the vehicle you're removing the cluster from has different options, like parking sensors for instance, that the instrument panel will report an error with those functions on startup.

Again the gauges will function perfectly fine although you'll see those errors each time you start the car until the proxi alignment is carried out.

 

[Gift]

The instrument cluster will function just fine, although the odometer reading will flash until the alignment procedure is carried out.

You may also find that if the vehicle you're removing the cluster from has different options, like parking sensors for instance, that the instrument panel will report an error with those functions on startup.

Again the gauges will function perfectly fine although you'll see those errors each time you start the car until the proxi alignment is carried out.

Morning.

Thank you for the help. The cluster is working fine but I'm having a problem with my throttle now. The car isn't accelerating so upon diagnostics it said throttle error. I bought another throttle but still it's not accelerating. My Fiat technician says he has to strip the belt and check the intake sensor. Might it happen that the intake sensor is a problem?

Regards
Gift

 

[Ralf S.]

If the car is a bit sluggish, then it could be the MAF sensor, between the air intake and the airbox. You don't need to strip too much to replace that.. but make sure it's actually the problem first.

Do you have the exact error code? Cleverer people than me might be able to give you better advice.. but a "throttle error" might be the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS). That's on the inlet manifold and the car will not idle very well... and not transition from idle to revving... (it will try to cut out).

But I dunno why the technician wants to take the cam-belt off, if that's what you meant? All the sensors, apart from the Top Dead Centre (TDC) aka "cam sensor" are on the right of the engine as you look at it - opposite end to the cam-belt.

Ralf S.

 

[Gift]

If the car is a bit sluggish, then it could be the MAF sensor, between the air intake and the airbox. You don't need to strip too much to replace that.. but make sure it's actually the problem first.

Do you have the exact error code? Cleverer people than me might be able to give you better advice.. but a "throttle error" might be the Throttle Position Sensor (TPS). That's on the inlet manifold and the car will not idle very well... and not transition from idle to revving... (it will try to cut out).

But I dunno why the technician wants to take the cam-belt off, if that's what you meant? All the sensors, apart from the Top Dead Centre (TDC) aka "cam sensor" are on the right of the engine as you look at it - opposite end to the cam-belt.

Ralf S.

Greetings.

I wish I knew what codes is he getting. I since dropped off the car by him and since I'm not mobile I can't go and check up regularly as that's my only car.
Please find attached the conversation between me and him in the pic.

Any insight about what he is talking about?

Regards
Gift

 

[Ralf S.]

It's not really clear. By "intake pulley" I presume he means the inlet camshaft pulley, in which case the "intake sensor" he mentions might be the TDC sensor. That tends to be behind the pulley.

But that doesn't make sense, since a failing TDC sensor first makes the car cut out when it's hot... and then not start at all when it's completely failed. Otherwise when it's working the car runs fine.

You can test the TDC sensor just by checking for sparks and fuel when it's dead... (you'll have no sparks and no fuel injection signal) .. so you don't need to remove the cam-belt to test - just to replace it.

What's the throttle problem you're getting? Is it hesitating or not picking up revs when you give it some throttle? The TPS is on the throttle body, which is the other side of the engine to the cam-belt. It'll be interesting to see what your mechanic discovers...


Ralf S.

 

[Gift]

It's not really clear. By "intake pulley" I presume he means the inlet camshaft pulley, in which case the "intake sensor" he mentions might be the TDC sensor. That tends to be behind the pulley.

But that doesn't make sense, since a failing TDC sensor first makes the car cut out when it's hot... and then not start at all when it's completely failed. Otherwise when it's working the car runs fine.

You can test the TDC sensor just by checking for sparks and fuel when it's dead... (you'll have no sparks and no fuel injection signal) .. so you don't need to remove the cam-belt to test - just to replace it.

What's the throttle problem you're getting? Is it hesitating or not picking up revs when you give it some throttle? The TPS is on the throttle body, which is the other side of the engine to the cam-belt. It'll be interesting to see what your mechanic discovers...


Ralf S.

I'm still awaiting on his feedback. The problem I'm having is the car starts and idles fine but no throttle at all. When I step on the accelerator, nothing happenes. So they ran a diagnosis and it said throttle error. So I bought a new throttle. But still no revs at all. I'm also curious to know what he finds.

 

[Mytheroo]

I had the same issue, had to replace the ECU. The pedal just activates a potentiometer (or two?) and the ECU then sends signal (a % of 12v?) to the throttle plate which rotates the plate open. A spring returns the plate. There is a potentiometer on the plate. When you first turn on the ignition, and wait, the plate should be moved through its full range of movement to set the potentiometer limits (you should hear this). On my old ECU, the plate motor was getting 5v, no change, and no movement of the plate at switch on.

I got a 2nd hand "virginized" ECU, though it was a T1 on the end rather than a T9.

 

[Gift]

I had the same issue, had to replace the ECU. The pedal just activates a potentiometer (or two?) and the ECU then sends signal (a % of 12v?) to the throttle plate which rotates the plate open. A spring returns the plate. There is a potentiometer on the plate. When you first turn on the ignition, and wait, the plate should be moved through its full range of movement to set the potentiometer limits (you should hear this). On my old ECU, the plate motor was getting 5v, no change, and no movement of the plate at switch on.

I got a 2nd hand "virginized" ECU, though it was a T1 on the end rather than a T9.

My technician just got back to me, he reckons the ECU as well.

When changing an ECU, what else needs to be changed to get it fully functional?

Regards
Gift.

 

[Mytheroo]

the test is to check the throttle plate (flap) moves through the whole range of motion after the ignition is turned on (but not started).
If no movement back-probe the 2 wires for the electric motor in the throttle body. Just get a voltmeter set to 20V DC, back probe the correct wires (I think they were thicker, but I also found them by dismantling the TB). Just turn on ignition and wait. The voltage should ramp up to 12V and back down again to indicate the ECU is sending power to that electric motor. If you DO get the voltage sweep, you need to see if the flap is jammed or the motor is stalled or seized. You can also test the flap/motor by supplying 12v to it WHILE DISCONNECTED from ECU.
A working motor/flap but no voltage sweep from ECU after ignition (no starter) is gonna be bad ECU. Check if it has "dropped pins" -
and if so you'll need to decide whether to try to fix it. I have proper solder equipment and experience so I did try this on my old one, as it has 3 pins that looked a bit iffy, but it didn't help in my case. I expect a power transistor had blown (takes the signal of 0v to 12v and supplies amps to the circuit)
hope this helps.

I think there's a procedure for assigning a virginised ECU to the car, can't remember what it was though, unless I'm just thinking of the throttle reset thing (ignition on, wait 2 minutes, ignition off, wait 2 mins, ignition on....or something like that)

 

[Gift]

the test is to check the throttle plate (flap) moves through the whole range of motion after the ignition is turned on (but not started).
If no movement back-probe the 2 wires for the electric motor in the throttle body. Just get a voltmeter set to 20V DC, back probe the correct wires (I think they were thicker, but I also found them by dismantling the TB). Just turn on ignition and wait. The voltage should ramp up to 12V and back down again to indicate the ECU is sending power to that electric motor. If you DO get the voltage sweep, you need to see if the flap is jammed or the motor is stalled or seized. You can also test the flap/motor by supplying 12v to it WHILE DISCONNECTED from ECU.
A working motor/flap but no voltage sweep from ECU after ignition (no starter) is gonna be bad ECU. Check if it has "dropped pins" - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J_oA3mcWqHo
and if so you'll need to decide whether to try to fix it. I have proper solder equipment and experience so I did try this on my old one, as it has 3 pins that looked a bit iffy, but it didn't help in my case. I expect a power transistor had blown (takes the signal of 0v to 12v and supplies amps to the circuit)
hope this helps.

I think there's a procedure for assigning a virginised ECU to the car, can't remember what it was though, unless I'm just thinking of the throttle reset thing (ignition on, wait 2 minutes, ignition off, wait 2 mins, ignition on....or something like that)

Well the throttle was never tested the voltage. I bought another throttle but still did the same thing. The video really did help thank you. I will check the ECU and see what it does. Will come back with feedback.

Regards
Gift