All a matter of confidence I suppose? from what everyone here is saying about you I think buying your own timing tools would be a great investment for you. I've just looked on ebay and seen a complete kit for under £25. I bought the Neilsen kit which looks very similar and it worked absolutely fine.
At the risk of repeating myself, you might like to read what I wrote about doing Becky's belt (our Panda) and I then followed up by doing my boys VVT Punto 1.4 8 valve which was no more difficult:
https://www.fiatforum.com/panda/459903-beckys-timing-belt-ongoing-saga.html.
You'll notice I was interested in exploring whether the belt could be changed without the timing tools? My answer would be yes - as long as you are sure someone has not previously wrongly positioned and then retightened the top sprocket. So if you're doing a first belt change you are pretty sure to be safe. On an older/high mileage vehicle I'd be checking things with the timing tools in case some other "bandit" has been in there before you and set up the top sprocket wrongly. On much older cars the top sprocket was keyed to the cam so this missalignment couldn't happen - these engines have timing marks on their sprockets and casings and you don't need timing tools.
If you are going to do it without the timing tools then firstly take the spark plugs out so the engine won't be affected by compression and then make tippex marks on the top (camshaft) sprocket and the belt then the bottom, smaller, (crankshaft) sprocket and belt. The mesh with the water pump is of no importance so doesn't need to be marked. If you are feeling very nervous you can also mark the head and oil pump casing at the same time as you mark the belt and sprockets just to give yourself an additional reference point. You might notice I marked the head in one of the illustrations because I wanted a positive reference in case the cam turned - the crank is most unlikely to turn, especially if you've removed the plugs.
Now, with sprockets, belt (marked in 2 places, one at the top and one at the bottom) and maybe casings all tippex marked you can slacken the tensioner and remove the belt. Now remove the water pump and have some fun cleaning off the sealant from the front of the block. Apply sealant to the new pump (I like Loctite SI 5980 because it's sensor friendly) and install.
Now take great care to mark up your new timing belt (I strongly agree with everyone here in that you would NEVER refit a used belt) with tippex marks in the same place as the ones you marked on the old belt before removing it. I usually put one belt on top of the other to transfer the marks and then count teeth at least twice before I'm happy I've got it right. If you are out by even one tooth your engine is going to run very poorly and if you get it out by several teeth on the VVT engines you may end up damaging the engine, so take your time and concentrate. It's not difficult, don't let it "phaze" you, just take care over it and be accurate. Oh, and don't use black board chalk, you're very likely to rub it off during fitting - guess how I know that!
Now fit the new belt round the crank sprocket first with the new mark you just made on the belt lining up with the mark on the sprocket when you started. Wedge it in place with a small socket, or something suitable, under the belt between the belt and the bottom flange on the oil pump casing. (This is just to stop the belt falling off or jumping a tooth as you work with it) now feed the belt round the water pump pulley, making sure the teeth are meshed and not riding on top of the teeth. Now the difficult bit. You need to get the belt fed round the top pulley with the mark you've made on the belt lining up with the mark you made on the sprocket before you started taking it all to pieces whilst at the same time feeding the belt round the inside of the idler bearing. You may find the pressure of the valve springs acting on the cam has made the cam pulley rotate a little so you're having difficulty lining the tippex marks up. Just move the sprocket by turning the cam till it all lines up and you can slip the belt on. It's unlikely the cam will have to be turned very much to get the marks lined up. You could do this either by gripping the cam (between the lobes - not directly on a polished lobe surface!) or by using a spanner, or it might be a female torx (The Punto had one of those) on the front bolt on the cam sprocket. The sprocket retaining bolt is done up EXTREMELY tightly so your chances of slackening it off doing this are probably nil (don't come crying to me if you are the exception to the rule though, will you?) Now tighten the idler making sure you keep the belt tight on the water pump side (ie the belt run from the crank sprocket over the water pump sprocket and up to the cam sprocket).
Now carefully check that the marks on the crank sprocket and belt line up, whilst at the same time, the mark on the cam sprocket and the belt also line up. By the way, if you put the belt flat on the ground, you will noticed that the marks you have made on it are closer together if you count them one way (say clockwise) compared with the other way (anticlockwise). You'll find the shorter distance is on the run from the crank via the water pump to the cam. I like to put an arrow between the two marks to clearly identify this side to avoid confusion when fitting.
Finally, once everything is fully tightened up, SLOWLY turn the engine over through a minimum of two crankshaft revolutions in normal DOR - it's very bad practice to turn any engine backwards, especially if it's a chain driven cam type - feeling all the time for any sign of resistance. If you've got it wrong you will feel the crankshaft come to a solid stop as the piston contacts the valve. For this reason you should always do this with the plugs out so no compression can interfere and also you need to turn the engine SLOWLY otherwise the energy stored in the flywheel, even being rotated at quite modest speed by hand, can be enough to do significant damage. I like to do this using either a combination spanner or "T" bar because then I can stop the rotation very quickly if I were to feel anything. I wouldn't use a ratchet because you couldn't bring it to a rapid stop.
Oh, and by the way, after going your two revs, don't expect the tippex marks on the belt to be lining up with the marks on the sprockets. It'll be many revolutions before they line up again, so be careful to double check your marks are lining up BEFORE you do your 2 rev clearance check.
If all this checks out I like to now swing the engine over for several revs to settle the belt into it's normal running position, which, by the way is towards the back of the cam sprocket (which you can see clearly if you look at the ninth picture in my description). The belt run is controlled by the flange faces on the water pump and they all run towards the rear of the sprocket like this. It upset me first time I saw it as I expected to see the belt running in the middle of the sprocket! After turning the engine over a few times you may find the tensioner could take a wee "fine tune" just to end up with the marks aligning perfectly.
Hope you found that interesting? As to whether you should do it? I suppose that depends on you being happy to attempt it and prepared to accept the consequences of getting it wrong. For me It's fun and I do these things because I get a kick out of it. Anyway, good luck with whatever you decide to do. It's not a difficult engine to do a belt on, but, if your engine is interference, the consequences of getting it wrong are dire.