I've done quite a few of these on the small FIAT petrol engines and during my working life I've done hundreds, maybe thousands, of timing belts on different makes of car. For an experienced mechanic the early FIRE engines - those with timing marks, so, on the Panda up to around 2011 - are amongst the simplest there are. The later engines, which have no timing mark on the camshaft pulley are best done using a kit of locking tools. I have a set like this:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/334804517903?hash=item4df3e7840f:g:rF4AAOSwzNNjGzjn&amdata=enc:AQAIAAAA0FiGGG9ih/s+LHR8u8Wxf/2AZSLyTL8OPL8TOztzkutgaIAs0+SSS22fAVPQIiZcutl5WWKcyUyEfXZ3tuKyf9dIoll+qAt2mPk2ailSqJo+WK1aCDgvLrpInM7yMWtvISJEu7QOo+DqtKnNfMqyVuEHcsapYiX/RUeWKxAdYohkx+RBcdQD8X43hmDwWiyrd2OY7uotItOnpDhbJy9fT9FwV5hHV3C9wamk2i5OEdojHmXPHrZboApfieisAo+D1Pgc8GeUhdATF5kfkyyDlwg=|tkp:Bk9SR8Lgh9e2Yg which works well but doesn't do the 1.4 twin cam engine.
If your car is post 2012 (I guess it is as you're in this section of the forum?) then it's going to be an interference engine so if you fit the belt wrong it's very likely the valves and pistons will crash into each other and wreck the engine. Also, particularly with this later VVT engine, there are many posts on the forum from amateur mechanics who have "got it wrong" with this VVT engine. Also from people who have had the belt change done by a wee garage with little fIAT experience and have ended up with poor running problems. For those reasons alone I wouldn't recommend this as a good engine to do your first belt change on and I'd strongly recommend getting it done by someone who knows these engines.
Andy Monty posted an excellent guide on the forum - mentioned by eeeno above - and to save you the trouble of searching for it you can find it here:
https://www.fiatforum.com/guides/1-2-8v-evo-2-engine-cam-belt-replacement.732/ With your engine being a VVT you'll need to read PAGE 2 (see it linked to, in red, half way down the page).
If, after all this, you do decide to have a go yourself then you'll need more than a few cheap spanners and be aware one of the engine mount bolts is quite difficult to get at and they can be pretty tight. Also, when you're finished, take all the spark plugs out - so there's no compression in the engine so it will be smooth and easy to turn over - and, with a spanner or socket on the crankshaft bolt, turn the crankshaft through a minimum of two revolutions, very slowly so the flywheel has no inertial effect, and feel for any resistance. Just in case you've got it wrong and a piston is contacting a valve. Don't even think of even touching the ignition key until you're sure it's turning over freely! Also it's important to turn it over slowly. If you turn it fast, as is easily done with a socket and ratchet handle, the flywheel will have enough effect to bend a valve before you realize it's done it.
And, lastly, it's worth mentioning that, if you have slackened the camshaft pulley, as is recommended, you may well need to do a "Phonic Wheel Relearn" - which is basically an ECU reset - to teach the ECU the new angular relationship between the crankshaft and camshaft sensor signals. You'll need the dealer's diagnostic gear or
Multiecuscan:
http://www.multiecuscan.net/ (which is what most of us use) to do this.
Hope that was all of help? I think, on the later engines, it's the sort of job to only do if you either have experience or a good, knowledgeable friend to stand by and help if needed.
Edit. Good luck with however you decide to do it. I wish you well and hope it all goes well. Please do let us know what you decide and let us know how it all turns out won't you?
