Technical broken down P0170 & P1325 fault codes

[oldhammer]

if your planning on doing the headgasket.
you might struggle to get someone to skim it..normaly its a 2-3 day wait..




id take the head off and get a straight edge..and torch..if its not to bad
just throw agasket on.
as for taking all the valves out..Why?
theres no need if they seat properly.. easy to test all you need is some petrol.

 

[oldhammer]

As far as i can tell this engine is timed at or near number one TDC firing. If so both cams will be pointing straight up or near so when the cover comes off and you can assume that you will need to take the head off. These engines lean forwards in the engine compartment though so straight up is a relative term.

To be honest i get the impression you know what you are doing anyway and just need the moral support to get it done.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N5nGqtq3YnQ

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HyKN52HD6RU

The top video is pointless.
its quicker too loosen the tensioner and slide the belt off,


if it was a timing chain engine..his idea wouid be good.

 

[judderbar]

The top video is pointless.
its quicker too loosen the tensioner and slide the belt off,


if it was a timing chain engine..his idea wouid be good.

Can you elaborate on that please?

Using his method the cam shaft only has to be rotated to go on the cam pulley - if that is necessary - to go on the only place it will go on the camshaft no matter what happens to the head while it is off.

If you just slide the belt off you will need to mark the cam pulley against the head and assume these marks are not removed by a reconditioner?

 

[oldhammer]

the timing marks are clear and simple.so there is no need to cut corner's there. as you can see in the Thread this chap knows how to time this thing up..as for the chap in the video..if he does this for a living ifeel sorry for his customers, taking a gamble on a 'interference engine is not the way to go.time the thing up correctly and be done with it,as isaid if it was on a timing chain id see the point of it..as ive done it in the past..mainly on Toyota engines.

 

[judderbar]

the timing marks are clear and simple.so there is no need to cut corner's there. as you can see in the Thread this chap knows how to time this thing up..as for the chap in the video..if he does this for a living ifeel sorry for his customers, taking a gamble on a 'interference engine is not the way to go.time the thing up correctly and be done with it,as isaid if it was on a timing chain id see the point of it..as ive done it in the past..mainly on Toyota engines.

?? if the guy in the video knows what he is doing then why does he need to time the engine if he knows the belt has not moved on the pulleys?? Surely thats the point of the video demonstration!

 

[ballboy]

went to the car auction tonight to check out the prices,
not sure about taking the head off, just think its an old car & done 114K is it worth it to try to repair it

 

[oldhammer]

?? if the guy in the video knows what he is doing then why does he need to time the engine if he knows the belt has not moved on the pulleys?? Surely thats the point of the video demonstration!

he most probs hasnt checked the timing.

go and ask a 'pro mechanic..wouid they do this and as to why not.

 

[oldhammer]

went to the car auction tonight to check out the prices,
not sure about taking the head off, just think its an old car & done 114K is it worth it to try to repair it

Trouble is with auctions..you couid end up buying someone else's problems.

 

[judderbar]

Trouble is with auctions..you couid end up buying someone else's problems.

Exactly.

If it is only going to be a few quid to replace the head gasket it seems worth the hassle to attempt to take the head off and see what is revealed.

What about the valve seals though? They are only made from rubber compounds. Is it not typical to replace valve seals if the car has so strongly overheated and come to a halt on a main road after travelling along at speed?

 

[varesecrazy]

went to the car auction tonight to check out the prices,
not sure about taking the head off, just think its an old car & done 114K is it worth it to try to repair it

you're looking at a day, and @ £40 in parts,


we've no idea if it's a scrappy car just hanging in there, or a tidy one with another 50K under it's bonnet..,

worth £200 to £600 depending on condition..,and MOT..!!

Charlie

 

[Ziggy122]

If i was fitting a scrappy car engine to mine

I'd do all the work on it

fit new plugs - Cambelt - HG
Clean the oil strainer and sump out
Clean and repaint sump -i'd go some yards with it

Why? Because its easier to put the money in it now - vs later

ziggy

 

[ballboy]

local car spares shop says head gasket kit inc new bolts is £60,
my concern is what state will the head be in, given those compression test readings,
I don't know anyone that does skimming etc, so its an ebay recon one = £160, so now £220+


just not sure if its worth effort of taking head off
but just in case, does anyone have a guide to taking head off, seen them youtube videos, but they start video with everything off engine

 

[Ziggy122]

local car spares shop says head gasket kit inc new bolts is £60,
my concern is what state will the head be in, given those compression test readings,
I don't know anyone that does skimming etc, so its an ebay recon one = £160, so now £220+


just not sure if its worth effort of taking head off
but just in case, does anyone have a guide to taking head off, seen them youtube videos, but they start video with everything off engine

Coolant drain - Undo bottom Rad hose (remove hose to thermostat + Coolant sensor possibly)
Drain Oil - Undo sump bung
I support engine on block of wood on axle stand
Undo Exhaust mani - tie it up to slam pannel to prevent it damaging Rad
Undo inlet manifold - 6x bolts, IIRC air box needs to come off
HT's and coil pack holder off
Rocker cover off
Engine supported - Undo engine mounts on the left there
Remove AUX belt after slackened alternator bolts
Remove Crank sensor 1x bolt
Remove Aux pulley (note the dimple / tiny hole vs how it comes off crank pulley - thats very important as it relates to ignition timing)

Time engine up - slacken cambelt tension - remove belt
Breaker bar the head bolts loose 1/4 in sequence, so the tension on the head is even

Once all free - you may get puddles of oil and water pissing out though
Retrieve 2x collets out head (need to remain in engine block)
HG will probably shread on removal

Ziggy

 

[ballboy]

ziggy, thanks, been out there this afternoon go wet thou, only drain oil and water, could not hoses off to drain water, that took ages, so came back in doors to warm up and get clean

 

[varesecrazy]

ziggy, thanks, been out there this afternoon go wet thou, only drain oil and water, could not hoses off to drain water, that took ages, so came back in doors to warm up and get clean

I leave inlet manifold on ( for leverage = only needs to be removed for skimming) - fuel hose clips just ping free and can be re-used,

As I said;
done 10 now.. never skimmed 1 yet,

you do NOT need bolts, just Head Gasket, and possibly thermostat gasket ( I re-seal)

they are TUBE dowels on head to block..( colletts =got me confused)

clean mating faces thoroughly with petrol , and a blade to shift stuck gasket.

 

[ballboy]

that sounds better, I was looking at the nuts on the inlet wondering at how I could get a socket on to some of them

 

[varesecrazy]

that sounds better, I was looking at the nuts on the inlet wondering at how I could get a socket on to some of them

Exactly.. TBH I leave the alternator too..,

as you're removing the bottom crank pulley anyway, then the belt is no issue

give the exhaust heat shield bolts a good soaking so they won't shear

rest is pretty simple..

PM me for MY TIPS on reassembly ( torqueing , etc)

Charlie

 

[ballboy]

right took the head off,
photos attached, can't see any damage that would cause the compression problems, the is damage to cyl 1, but it looks old, not taken head gasket off to look underneath, but cyls look clean, and no movement side to side,

 

[judderbar]

right took the head off,
photos attached, can't see any damage that would cause the compression problems, the is damage to cyl 1, but it looks old, not taken head gasket off to look underneath, but cyls look clean, and no movement side to side,

Have you not got leakage between the cylinders of number 1 and 4 into the cooling channels? Where the orange colour is on the circular gasket sealing ring? Top part of the block picture?

Thats what the compressed air might have found?

Then again what am i thinking of! All of your cylinders were showing 'bad' compression!!

hmmmmmm

I suppose if you are looking at an instantaneous failure due to lack of coolant, creating a warped head you will not see much evidence of it having happened?

 

[ballboy]

can't see any damage on underneath of head gasket, photos of thermostat show muck in the holes of the case, (re they bypass holes ?) in the rocker box side I found what looks like broken rubber off valve stem seal, really don't see why I got those compression readings as nothing looks that bad,