General Brake pipe replacement

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General Brake pipe replacement

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Nov 6, 2016
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Any advice on replacing the rear brake pipes on the misses 1.2 panda would be helpful as I changed the rear wheel cylinder last weekend but it still seems to be loosing a bit of brake fluid over the week possibly from where the pipe joins the new cylinder cheers for any advice
 
The nuts corrode onto the pipes, so removal needs care. There are similar recent threads, so search the Panda section.

Take them off, plug the hose and wheel cylinder. Try not to distort the pipe shape.
Take the pipes to a local small garage, and ask if they can make you a pair.

It is possible to make your own, but having asked the question, I'd guess this is not a good idea. Local factors may have pre-made pipes of correct length and fittings, so worth a look around.
 
It's possible you got a bit of grit in the thread... feels tight, but leaks under pressure.
Annoyingly, I've also had a brand new wheel cylinder with built-in leak from a seal. Think it was one from a full kit (shoes/springs/adjusters/cylinders) which made it even more annoying!
Worth checking before changing the pipe.
 
As the junction of pipe to cylinder is metal to metal the seal is made by the softer metal of the swaged end of the pipe deforming to fit the conical shape inside the cylinder. When fitting a new cylinder to an existing pipe, just occasionally, because it was forced to fit the shape of the old cylinder, it just can't be made to seal. In this situation a new pipe is the only answer - don't be tempted to mess about with liquid gasket etc in an attempt to obtain a seal because, under emergency braking the pressure can become extreme and might well "spit out" any sealing material! On longer pipes you might find it possible to cut off the defective swaged end and remake it but usually it's just simpler to make a new pipe. There's also the fact that cheaper pipe forming (flaring) tools don't work too well on steel pipes so on many cars reflaring a pipe is not a good option anyway. I see what PB is saying about local factors being able to supply pipes. Mine do this. You just take the old pipe in and they do it on the spot. I know a number of the locals use this service. Long ago, when we lived out in the country - so once the car was disabled it was very difficult to get into town, I decided I wanted to be able to do this myself. I have a couple of cheaper flaring tools and both work well so I would have no hesitation in making up my own pipes if needed. If you've never made up a pipe before though then the Factor option is very attractive.

I've myself had the problem of defective new cylinders on more than one occasion in years gone by - haven't seen one for quite some time though, maybe quality control is better these days? Or maybe I'm just not doing so much now I'm "old". Although rare I've seen both casting defects in cylinder bores and damaged seals, I would presume during assembly? I never use a cylinder now without popping the pistons out and having a good look at both the cylinder walls and seal condition.
 
Over time a small amount of corrosion builds-up under the plastic coating which jams the flare nut. It won't feel any different but unscrewing the fastener twists and weakens the metal pipe. You will probably need a new metal pipe from the swing arm pivot to the back of the brake cylinder. May as well replace the rubber hose as well.

Alternatively, fit a pair of braided hoses from chassis bracket to brake back plate. You could use an angled banjo fitting or have floating male flare fitting on both ends. Get it made with two anti chafe bobbins and attach with zip ties or better P clips.

To undo the rubber brake hose - cut it and spin the remnant off the chassis pipe flare nut. You can then warm the flare nut with a ciggy lighter to soften the plastic coating and free its seizure.

Two braided hoses on the back end with normal hoses on the front will not result an an overly hard pedal action.
 
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