Technical Boot won't open by hand or remote

[Farrah]

Hi,

Boot wont open on key or manually by hand.......had the harness fix done a few years ago but need to get the boot open to explore other options first...how do i open the boot from inside.......do I have to get the boot trim off or is there a particular spot on the latch to lever........

Regards

 

[Farrah]

Hi again,

OK found the simple quick release on the lower part of the boot latch from inside the car........

Had a quick look at the wiring harness and it still seems in tact nothing obvious but as I said it had the repair done by a main dealer a few years ago.....

So it appears from reading what I can search on it could be the microswitch or a faulty solenoid............

Can someone show me the micro switch location and what voltage should I see at the solenoid remote ie is it a constant or a pulse voltage.......I do get the two inidcator lights flashing when i use the key fob remote to try to open the boot and everything else seems to be fine ie doors remote open and close etc.............also the speedo indicator warning light is off when boot closed and on when open so this signal is being picked up so does this mean microswitch is good or from a different circuit

Regards

 

[Pugglt Auld Jock]

My boy's 2012 Punto failed. Couldn't open the boot by any other way than operating the wee lever on the side of the lock inside the boot. This was in the dead of winter and I'd convinced myself it was going to be a broken wire inside the rubber boot so, as it's very much a second car, used mostly to get my boy to and from his work, we agreed to let it wait until the good weather came in. Didn't realize it would fail MOT on it, which it did. With my boy being on the other side of the city to us he decided not to bother me with it and just instructed the garage to "sort" it. Turned out to be the actual locking latch itself. I got one from S4p for him next day delivery considerably cheaper than the dealer - who would have had to order it anyway - and he was back on the road within 3 days.

 

[varesecrazy]

@portland_bill

Has changed the microswitch at some point I believe

 

[John202020]

The fact it won't open via the remote suggests its the solenoid or control of it, measure the voltage on it bearing in mind it maybe switched on the earth side
The micro switch earth's the signal wire to the numberplate earth if memory serves right there's only 3 wires to the silver handle part.

 

[Farrah]

Thanks all,

From what I have read Punto's don't suffer the harness issue like the 500's but I cannot rule out that as it was done 3 years ago has now failed again but want to look at the easiest bits to test first....

I dont know how the whole system works with the microswitch and is it the same microswitch that puts the red warning light 'boot open' on the cluster or is there another one as part of the lower lock mechanism..........the fact my warning light works correctly and goes off when the boot is shut if it was the microswitch which sends this signal this would indicate the microswitch works so then more likely the actual actuator solenoid has gone faulty........

remote fob obviously is sending out signal as indicators flash twice but there is no buzz noise usually heard from the actuator.........

 

[Farrah]

OK quick update as my 4 legged apprentice and I decided to have a looksee.........

The rear number plate lamps work ok onn the boot finisher manual latch part and when removed I have continuity on red and black wire which are the lamps and make/break contact on the black and blue is working fine when I operate the finger release latch so microswitch here is fine......

Down to the main latch which I can now see is a latch/combined actuator and obviously the boot open warning signal warning.....

I would assume the two thin white wires terminal 1 and 2 are the internal warning microswitch and the black and purple wire terminal 3 and 4 the power supply to the internal actuator solenoid coil so just going to flash a 12v across the latter......

 

[Farrah]

OK just before I flash 12v across the black and purple I decided to do some continuity and ohm tests.........on the two white wires these remained open circuit whether the mechanical latch was flicked up or released but speedo cluster indicated the boot open and closed red warning light operates OK..........on the purple and black wire I have a 27ohm reading all the time so seems a bit low for a solenoid coil winding so maybe I have misjudged what these wires are performing so any help here would be appreciated. On terminals 2 and 3 one white wire and the black wire this does give me a make and break continuity test when I manually throw the boot lock lever...............

 

[Farrah]

Follow up.........boot latch worked fine flashing 12v across the purple and black wire. Had no 12v supply though to the latch from the car harness so peeled back grommet at top of inner tailgate to expose the wiring...........sure enough the black wire had broken off at one end of the spliced repair joint. Looks like a reasonable repair was done by the main dealer wires have been soldered and heat shrinked.......would have helped to use matching coloured wire as a bit confusing splicing a purple wire into the black wire but anyway I can sort that one out.......so problem now sorted

 

[varesecrazy]

Well done...

typical its a failed repair..

but at least relatively cheap and simple

 

[John202020]

A box! Who needs expensive cat toys?

 

[Farrah]

Follow up.........boot latch worked fine flashing 12v across the purple and black wire. Had no 12v supply though to the latch from the car harness so peeled back grommet at top of inner tailgate to expose the wiring...........sure enough the black wire had broken off at one end of the spliced repair joint. Looks like a reasonable repair was done by the main dealer wires have been soldered and heat shrinked.......would have helped to use matching coloured wire as a bit confusing splicing a purple wire into the black wire but anyway I can sort that one out.......so problem now sorted

Clearly the problem here on the 500 is just too many wires have been packed through the one convoluted tailgate rubber tube. I struggled to feed the new wire through and had to use a welding rod to force a passage to draw a wire through as the broken cable had disappeared inside the convoluted rubber tube. The tightness of all the wires inside the tube is just not allowing free movement inside so the wires are just fatiguing....

The best fix would be to extend and take half the wires under the rear headlining over to the otherside corner., Buy an extra convoluted grommet, pierce through a couple of new holes and allow both sides then some freedom of movement of the wires inside the grommet....

Maybe one day if nothing better to do......a problem shared is a problem solved and looking at the body structure it is the same both sides so maybe the bean counters threw the original design out as a cost saver

John great avitar picture but you get me on cats and I can bore anyone.......every room in our house has cat pillars and scratching post, we have a cattery outside but they all want now to come in.......we have furry beds, and toys but this little one I pictured just thinks any box is his

 

[John202020]

It's the design most cars have the flexi going left to right horizontally this means the twist is along the cable for some distance and not across it over a very short distance?

 

[Farrah]

It's the design most cars have the flexi going left to right horizontally this means the twist is along the cable for some distance and not across it over a very short distance?

Not sure about that as we had flexi grommets on all 4 doors going left right and right left......that said on the later Land Rover designs these were on the tailgate taken from the centre. Gantry cranes have harnesses on both sides rolling round and those wires have to be going against the grain on the individual wiring twist.......

Maybe not enough engineering testing was done again we would have test cells set up that worked 24/7 opening and closing doors boots tailgates windows etc working the handles hinges and harnesses++++++......

 

[A3jeroen]

A box! Who needs expensive cat toys?

It's out of the bag...

gr J

 

[Farrah]

AAAAAggggghhhhh...........what a lot of soppy 500 owners you are worried about my cats sleeping in a box.........so from one end of the spectrum to the other this must be the most expensive cat bed in the world including a lambswool carpet , then they get the option of a whole bed or a cat hammock......but like kids at Xmas........we prefer boxes........

 

[John202020]

They are adorable

 

[Farrah]

I know it is naughty but just for the cat and bird lovers our Joey who is watching over the cats and family has been busy and two females with their chicks and cats looking over them too....all get on fine as well fed......oh forgot to say the boot wiring repair has lasted well but still going to do a grommet and half the wiring to the other side.....

 

[Craigfiat]

OK quick update as my 4 legged apprentice and I decided to have a looksee.........

The rear number plate lamps work ok onn the boot finisher manual latch part and when removed I have continuity on red and black wire which are the lamps and make/break contact on the black and blue is working fine when I operate the finger release latch so microswitch here is fine......

Down to the main latch which I can now see is a latch/combined actuator and obviously the boot open warning signal warning.....

I would assume the two thin white wires terminal 1 and 2 are the internal warning microswitch and the black and purple wire terminal 3 and 4 the power supply to the internal actuator solenoid coil so just going to flash a 12v across the latter......

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Hi I'm having similar issue. I repaired the loom. Tested continuity all good. I then tested the 4 pin connector. 1= 12.4v 2= 6v and 3= 0v 4=0v. When I press fob lights flash but nothing on 3 + 4 pins. I ran a bike battery direct to pin 3 and 4 and actuator opened. Is the white supposed to be 12v (constant?) Is there a fuse for latch white cable. I have 12v to pin 1, yellow black cable ?? So I thought fuse was ok. Oh I did buy a new actuator to try , still no luck. Any advice or help would be much appreciated

 

[Craigfiat]

Hi I'm having similar issue. I repaired the loom. Tested continuity all good. I then tested the 4 pin connector. 1= 12.4v 2= 6v and 3= 0v 4=0v. When I press fob lights flash but nothing on 3 + 4 pins. I ran a bike battery direct to pin 3 and 4 and actuator opened. Is the white supposed to be 12v (constant?) Is there a fuse for latch white cable. I have 12v to pin 1, yellow black cable ?? So I thought fuse was ok. Oh I did buy a new actuator to try , still no luck. Any advice or help would be much appreciated

Thought better add my boot light , number plate lights and door open / close light on dash all work fine. Also I hear a click in glove box when I press the boot release button in the car.. is it supposed to click. Or is that a sign the fuse there is blown. I cant get at them tbf rivet metal in way