Technical  Diesel Battery analysis

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Technical  Diesel Battery analysis

The black manual.:) we used to argue those times were set on a brand new clean vehicle and probably with an apprentice assisting, unlike us working on a filthy rusty car years old bolts all seized and with no assistance. I was grateful never to have worked to a bonus scheme.:)
Often impossible times in the real world but they calculated our bonus on it so the temptation was to cut corners to make the bonus. I despised those colleagues who did this but was the poorer for it and was not the foreman's favourite!
 
Often impossible times in the real world but they calculated our bonus on it so the temptation was to cut corners to make the bonus. I despised those colleagues who did this but was the poorer for it and was not the foreman's favourite!
Best out of a job like that.
When ever we heard of that we would pass the word around in the trade and to any sensible customers to be aware, so those businesses hopefully went down the toilet quickly.:(
 
I used to be the same listening to people in the pub say they had "serviced " their cars and saved loads over the garage prices, until I asked did you do this did you fit new that etc. When the answer was no , I used to say, to "Not much of a f ing service then":) Mind you with all the menu type services you get these days at Dealers I find unless they have had every service done according to the service book many miss items along the way.
If a new customer asked me how much for a service I used to ask what do you want doing, a cheap oil, filter and levels under the bonnet, or a proper full service, which in the old days was plugs,points, tappets, timing, engine and filter, gearbox and axle levels, brakes off and inspect, steering,suspension, tyres checked, lights checked, oil the door locks and hinges, road test which I used to charge 3 hours labour plus materials. I would also contact the customer if I saw anything else that needed doing to get their decision. These days the service only seems to include what is on the menu and the mechanic does just that as he is on a bonus scheme that if he spends any longer affects his earnings, where I could be flexible enough to squeeze any extra work in at the same time saving the customer more labour stripping it down again if they agreed and if not I would make a note on their invoice of what I had found for them to decide later, but no one could say I had missed something.
I will say my regular customers would happily say go ahead if for instance I noticed a brake cylinder starting to leak and before it got on the brake shoes so saving them extra cost. I could always justify anything I said needed doing and if as in one case the husband picked up the phone and accused me of trying to pad out the bill I was happy for him to come down and inspect whilst the brakes or whatever were still stripped down so they could see for themselves and then their wife would lay in to them and tell them to keep their nose out as they trusted me.:)
That's a reasonable time to do a thorough job Mike. We would do the same regarding additional things needing done. Car got parked outside and the boss, or latterly me when I became workshop foreman, ring the customer, explain what was needed, whether it was urgent or not and get the go ahead before doing anything. Only time I deviated from this would be if it was a regular customer who I knew really needed the car back that day. If I couldn't get them on the phone and the cost was not too great, I would take a chance on doing it. I can't remember a time anyone objected and usually they were delighted I was keeping their wheels rolling. But then I like to think our regulars knew we would never rip them off and had their best interests at heart.
 
I've certainly welcomed the increased P/W ratio compared with our previous 1.9L Trafic in a hilly environment although the Tempo inevitably feels less 'manoeuvrable' as it were; & I've yet to develop a sensitive enough right foot to ensure a non-jerky experience when setting off!. Your "less fuel" point is well made but on the other hand I find I'm always worrying about not having the revs sufficiently high to ensure dpf regeneration can take place. I'd really like having some early indication of the coming need for regeneration before the light comes on so I can get to the nearest motorway - some 50 minutes away - before it goes into limp mode....
I use a Bluetooth OBD interface so I can check the DPF % on my phone. It's not the most user friendly way of checking, but it works. Woe to the marketing departments that decided the DPF system had to be invisible to the user...
 
I use a Bluetooth OBD interface so I can check the DPF % on my phone. It's not the most user friendly way of checking, but it works. Woe to the marketing departments that decided the DPF system had to be invisible to the user...
Thanks. I have a bog standard OBD reader but haven't yet looked to see if it gives a DPF%. I also have a BT one: do you have a particular phone App that gives you the %?
 
Please Can someone else say if Dpf only needs higher revs when the dpf warning light comes on until light goes out, thanks.

DPF light on means the regen is late, because driving style didn't allow it to start or to complete. It's a prompt to go drive on the highway.

Ideally, one would never get to the point where it turns on as this is already more than nominal soot load. The regens should be happening without any obvious indication on the dashboard.

Medium RPMs and steady speed are needed for the regen. No need to go crazy high. I observed a perfectly fine regen at 2000 RPMs / 70 km/h. Drastic changes in engine load, like slowing down or overtaking, tend to disturb the process.

Outside of a regen the DPF does not benefit from high RPMs. But the more soot produced the quicker it will fill up, so time with engine cold is key. I get a distance of 600 km between regens with short winter trips vs. 1400 km on a cross country summer highway drive.
 
DPF light on means the regen is late, because driving style didn't allow it to start or to complete. It's a prompt to go drive on the highway.

Ideally, one would never get to the point where it turns on as this is already more than nominal soot load. The regens should be happening without any obvious indication on the dashboard.

Medium RPMs and steady speed are needed for the regen. No need to go crazy high. I observed a perfectly fine regen at 2000 RPMs / 70 km/h. Drastic changes in engine load, like slowing down or overtaking, tend to disturb the process.

Outside of a regen the DPF does not benefit from high RPMs. But the more soot produced the quicker it will fill up, so time with engine cold is key. I get a distance of 600 km between regens with short winter trips vs. 1400 km on a cross country summer highway drive.
If the process is disturbed, will the necessary cleaning of the DPF be achieved by a succession of such partial regenerations?
 
If the process is disturbed, will the necessary cleaning of the DPF be achieved by a succession of such partial regenerations?

Yes, as long as it doesn't stop early. On a Euro 5 Ducato, the regen has two phases; first heating up the catalyst to regen temps, which takes a couple minutes, then the regen itself, which needs 5 to 10 minutes at ~650 °C. If you have a musical ear, you can detect the slight changes in injection noise for each phase :)

The ECU keeps the temperature on target by injecting extra fuel. The system was designed to be transparent to the driver, so to a degree it shouldn't matter too much what you're doing with the gas pedal, but there are limits. If you slow down too much it can't maintain the required temps at all, and if you require maximum power, my observation is that it will pause the production of heat, or maybe the extra exhaust volume has a cooling effect.

The system will go back up to temp after the disturbance. But, if it can't reach the minimum temp in phase 1, there will be no phase 2! In that case no regen has taken place.

If it's disturbed in phase 2, to the point where it stops after 3 minutes, then yes some useful regen will have occurred.
 
Yes, as long as it doesn't stop early. On a Euro 5 Ducato, the regen has two phases; first heating up the catalyst to regen temps, which takes a couple minutes, then the regen itself, which needs 5 to 10 minutes at ~650 °C. If you have a musical ear, you can detect the slight changes in injection noise for each phase :)

The ECU keeps the temperature on target by injecting extra fuel. The system was designed to be transparent to the driver, so to a degree it shouldn't matter too much what you're doing with the gas pedal, but there are limits. If you slow down too much it can't maintain the required temps at all, and if you require maximum power, my observation is that it will pause the production of heat, or maybe the extra exhaust volume has a cooling effect.

The system will go back up to temp after the disturbance. But, if it can't reach the minimum temp in phase 1, there will be no phase 2! In that case no regen has taken place.

If it's disturbed in phase 2, to the point where it stops after 3 minutes, then yes some useful regen will have occurred.
Thank you for taking the time to explain this. If I may further presume upon your time: will the catalyst only ever heat up to the required regeneration temperature & phase 2 begin if the ECU decides it's time for a regeneration to take place anyway?
 
Thank you for taking the time to explain this. If I may further presume upon your time: will the catalyst only ever heat up to the required regeneration temperature & phase 2 begin if the ECU decides it's time for a regeneration to take place anyway?
Exactly. The catalyst might warm up passively on a long climb, but the ECU won't be sending it any fuel to burn into the DPF, so it won't do anything.
 
My understanding on interrupted Regens from reading many pieces about it and including in owners manuals from the manufacturers is that it will have a negative affect. Apart from anything else the extra diesel injected to increase the heat for Regen will end up diluting the engine oil as it if often mentioned on the subject advising oil changes after a Regen.
So make you own mind up, but I will always try for a full uninterrupted Regen.
 
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My understanding on interrupted Regens from reading many pieces about it and including in owners manuals from the manufacturers is that it will have a negative affect. Apart from anything else the extra diesel injected to increase the heat for Regen will end up diluting the engine oil as it if often mentioned on the subject advising oil changes after a Regen.
So make you on mind up, but I will always try for a full uninterrupted Regen.
Completely agree, it's worth going out of your way to ensure a full regen most of the time. Now of course if it comes at a terribly inconvenient time it's ok to interrupt it but this shouldn't happen regularly.
 
My understanding on interrupted Regens from reading many pieces about it and including in owners manuals from the manufacturers is that it will have a negative affect. Apart from anything else the extra diesel injected to increase the heat for Regen will end up diluting the engine oil as it if often mentioned on the subject advising oil changes after a Regen.
So make you own mind up, but I will always try for a full uninterrupted Regen.
Thanks. I too will always try for an uninterrupted regeneration if only I could know when that was on the cards. I'm currently under the impression that when the warning light comes on a regeneration is already overdue & limp mode could descend at any moment ! If I can get the OBD 'system' @lycopersicum has kindly described maybe I can stop taking the valium!
 
Years ago I sold a mate a 1955 Morris Minor with the early spikes to locate the hub caps ( weaker wheels) he fitted some massive 14 inch tyres from somewhere on the standard rims, some thing broke and he had a rear wheel pass him, so I am not sure if it was the semi floating hub failing or the wheel rim breaking a way from overload, he wasn't what I would call mechanically sympathetic.;)
Just looked up similar battery tester to mine but with printer £182!!! I am sure I paid less than half that.:(
This brings to mind a scene from the mid sixties. My series 2 Land Rover had fully floating rear hubs. The rival Austin Gypsy did not. The advantage was brought home when coming upon an Austin Gypsy in a desolate area, perhaps a mile to the East of Tan Hill Inn. The gypsy was tilted at an angle, with the owner struggling to recover a rear wheel that had rolled down the adjacent hillside.
 
This brings to mind a scene from the mid sixties. My series 2 Land Rover had fully floating rear hubs. The rival Austin Gypsy did not. The advantage was brought home when coming upon an Austin Gypsy in a desolate area, perhaps a mile to the East of Tan Hill Inn. The gypsy was tilted at an angle, with the owner struggling to recover a rear wheel that had rolled down the adjacent hillside.
I did own an ex recovery Austin Gypsy in early 70s, it came with a spare 2.5 BMC petrol engine, I must have lost interest as it didn't stay long.;)
 
Thanks. I too will always try for an uninterrupted regeneration if only I could know when that was on the cards. I'm currently under the impression that when the warning light comes on a regeneration is already overdue & limp mode could descend at any moment ! If I can get the OBD 'system' @lycopersicum has kindly described maybe I can stop taking the valium!

I can answer this but the op has strongly hinted that my input is unwelcome despite helping him resolve his slow cranking problem.
 
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