Technical Auxillary Power Supply Problem

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Technical Auxillary Power Supply Problem

JamesAtthews

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Joined
Dec 8, 2010
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Location
Scarborough
Hi All

I'm a new owner and new member to the forum. I have already used the forum to solve a couple of minor issues with my Multi, which the whole family loves, but I have one question which I can't resolve.

My car's auxillary power sockets don't work, I have checked all fuses, due to different layouts between cars, options and handbooks. All of the fuses check out. I have taken the socket out, and found a turquoise wire with a red stripe, and found another matching, wire ( I think) to the bottom of the fuse tray. I have taken my multimeter and tested resistance between the ends of the wires, and got nothing.

This means one of two things, wires are different and have no physical connection to one another, or the wire has snapped (don't know how) along it's path. I am willing to run a replacement wire from the connector on the relay to the socket itself, but I need to know it is likely to be the correct wire, before bridging the two and goosing something else.

Has any body has this fault, fixed this fault, or understand electronics. My smattering of knowledge is running out fast.

Many thanks in advance.
 
Hi there.

Just a thought but you are aware that they only work with the ignition on?

I'm sure you are but I'd just thought I'd check!
 
Hi Panda

Thanks for the quick response, yup all tests with ignition on. Odd though, as normally these supplies are permanently live. If I can't solve this, I will run a lead from the battery direct to both of the sockets, as this worked for years without problem on my Rover, although because it should have something, I would rather it worked properly.

Cheers

James
 
Hi again.

Ok, I think there is a relay as well which is near the fuse boards. Perhaps this is at fault? I wirde in a seperate permanent live supply, and I am sure I posted with pics here. I'll have a look mate.
 
Hi Panda

I had read that there was a relay which I gather will fire up when the ignition gives it a nod. Interestingly, I have found a blue and brown relay holder, which are wired up, but don't actually have a relay in them. I had assumed that the car was wired up for all extras, but just didn't have them enabled/ have relevant kit in them. On a possibly related note, my electric seat adjust doesn't work, I wonder if they are powered by the same relay, or the other one that is missing?

Many thanks for you reply, BTW how did you run the wire, through the bulkhead to the front socket, and along the existing wire to the boot socket, or full lengths underneath the body?

CHeers

James
 
Hi again.

No, I left the original two sockets as ignition only sockets(mine work....) and wired in a completely new switched live socket under the dash on theextreme right hand side on the little shelf. Buggered if I can find my post, but i'll up it again if I can find the details.

There is an excellent permanent live to be had running to the fuse box as well. I nipped into it carefully and have had no problems.

I'll dig out me info on it.
 
Hi Panda

The more that I thought about it, I was sure that I had read something about your how to before, but just couldn't find it when searching on FF. Having read it, I am going to attempt it tomorrow, using your approach. With your old bug, did you use this same supply wire, or was it a different one? Also was it a JTD 115 like mine, I just need to establish how likely the wiring circuits/ layout are to be the same/ similar.

Many thanks for your help with this, these forums are fantastic when it comes to solving car problems, I over used the Pug 406 forum, sadly....

Cheers

James
 
Hi again.

I think I have identified the relay for you, I think. It's under the glovebox, near the fusebox and is coloured red and I THINK it has two unused electrical pin holes in the top of it. It is next to a big yellow relay. Hope that bit helps.

My new auxiliary socket had a fresh permanent live supply. Took it from heater blower permanent live, under driver's glove box, fuse 5. Big thick red wire. Can't miss it.

Installed a new socket fitted on the little shelf on drivers side cos as I said, my two factory fitted ones were still working on the ignition.

There is a useful allen key bolt near the fuse box which supplied an earth and I fitted an illuminating switch alongside the new socket to turn it on and off. Used new wiring for new switch. Quite easy really.

I have copied my Yahoo post here for anyone interested.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------

Just had a successful morning wiring in a permanent live auxiliary
socket on my '57 nosejob Multi. I wanted a permanent live socket cos
I am a chauffeur and I spend a lot of time just sitting in the car
and don't always want the engine running or ignition on while I'm
just watching me little telly or dvd etc.

Hardest thing was to find a decent and accessible permanent live.
After and afternoons probing with a multimeter in the fusebox area
under the driver's side oddments tray, I only succeeded in finding
the wires from the fuse box to the courtesy lights, the radio memory
live (behind the radio) and a large red wire controlled by fuse no. 5
which according to my handbook covers the interior fan circuit. Why
that needs a live feed, goodness only knows, but hey, thanks Fiat!

I was initially wanting to find the horn or even the hazard warning
light circuits because these are safe circuits if I cocked it all up,
but no amount of probing, so to speak would bring them to my
attention. I even had the steering wheel cowl off to see if I could
see what colour the wire to the horn was but couldn't find a live
one. Didn't want to poke around there too much in case I set the
airbag off!

I felt that the courtesy wires were to small to take a feed off and
the radio live was a bit inaccessible.

In the end I settled for the large red wire on the fuse 5 circuit. If
as the handbook says it covers the interior fan only, it's a perfect
source! It's on a 30 amp fuse.

Because I fancied doing a fairly neat job, I decided not to cut into
it, but to bare the wire, tin it for soldering and solder my fuse
holder for the auxiliary socket to it. I wanted my fuse for this new
feed to be in with the other fuses for ease of replacement and
continuity.

So I soldered onto this live feed (with its fuse removed!). I then
soldered the other side of the fuse holder onto a wire for supply to
an illuminated switch so that I could make the socket switchable and
have a visible indication that the socket was live. I then made an
earth onto the frame under a handy allen screw in the fusebox area
using a ring connector.

Next I made holes to mount the auxiliary socket and illuminated
switch. I decided to mount them just above the handy little shelf
under the dash on the driver's side. Bit unnerving this cause I was
drilling a 30mm and 10mm hole in a year old car I had only just
bought! This was a useful place to mount the socket because there is
a lot of space behind here for the socket to go through, it is
adjacent to the fuse box and if I am charging my phone from the
socket or something, it can lie on the shelf and wires won't trail
across anything.

After this it was really just a case of connecting the supply and
earth to the switch and running a supply and earth from the switch to
the socket. I tested the circuit before mounting the switch and the
socket and all worked fine. I then just mounted the socket and
switch, tidied up the wiring and tested the socket under load with a
dvd player, phone charger and mini tv. I left the dvd playing for
half an hour while I cleared up and there were no blowing of fuses,
overheating of wires or visible evidence of any problems.

The fuse 5 circuit I tapped in to is fused at 30amp. I fused my
circuit at 7.5amp so that if I plug anything dubious into the socket,
my fuse should blow and not affect the fuse 5 circuit. I could
probably comfortably have fused at 10amp and been fine (the radio is,
after all). Anything requiring more amperage than this I would not
want to run from a permanent live supply anyway, but use the onboard
supply sockets and have the engine running so as not to flatten the
battery. I believe these are fused at 15amp and have a 180watt
maximum loading. But I also believe they have a relay, and my circuit
doesn't.

Apart from the previous afternoon spent poking around the fuse box,
the actual fitting and wiring took about two and a half hours. I took
my time and tried to keep everything looking neat and tidy. The
socket was from Maplins made by Hama and has a nice protective cover
to the front to prevent you poking your fingers in etc. And the
illuminated switch was from Halfords.

Socket £4.99, illuminated switch £2.75, Fuseholder £2.00, connectors
and cabling probably another £5.00. All in all for about £15.00 and a
couple of hour or so's work a useful addition to the car.

I am not suggesting that what I have done here is the absolute
safest, neatest or best way of doing it. But I am comfortable that
what I have done is definitely safe. I have only tapped into the
interior fan circuit, not exactly life threatening! I used this same
circuit as I am using now, for over three years in my old uglybug as
a live auxiliary feed and I fused it at 15amp cos I wasn't aware of
what I was doing. In all that time it caused no problem whatsoever so
I am confident that it safe to use for this purpose. I have fused it
down to make it so, anyway.

Hope this helps.

Panda.
 
Hi Panda

Many thanks for your help. I have just read your last post, I have seen this red relay, but the wires from it were different colours to the live at the socket, but maybe it goes elsewhere first and changes colour along the way.

I ended up fitting it to the front fog light supply, which like your fan, has a live supply, oddly. I did find the main live supply which runs directly from the battery to the fuse tray. It is between the fuse tray and the windscreen, but I didn't have any suitable connectors to join into this one. I think I will do in the near future though. I have fitted a 5 amp in line fuse between the fog light fuse and the socket, to protect the main circuit, as you did.

When it comes to me connecting the socket in the boot, I will branch off the main supply from the battery. I've done the hard work of feeding the wire through the dash etc, I can now rejoin the wire, and run an extension from the front to the boot easily enough.

Cheers

James
 
Toshiba provides auxiliary power supply units (APU) featuring compactness, light weight, low noise and high performance. These APU's are directly fed from the high voltage input catenary or third rail system and provide power for specific loads, such as air conditioners, heaters, lighting and propulsion blowers.
 
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