Hi, having just joined, is there anyone local to the highlands with classic 500, and if so maybe a repairs specialist they could recommend? I’m a few miles east of Inverness …. Thanks
- Model
- 500
- Year
- 1968
- Mileage
- 73000
General Anyone local?
- Thread starter Highland jamck
- Start date
Currently reading:
General Anyone local?
Hi, and welcome. I have a 1969 500F and flatter myself that I'm fairly knowledgeable and competent with them. Where are you? I am sure I can find ways to help you. 
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Hi, good to hear…. I’m at Gollanfield, between airport and Nairn, you? Car arrived this morning and just finding out what’s good and not so good, and dealing with nervous exhaustion! I think my first challenge will be with lighting - appears to have no indicators and not all head / rear light functions. Any thoughts and pointers welcome, but I was mainly wondering where might be a local garage that’s good with these older beasts. Thanks, John
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Help also welcome if it’s on offer, sorry, it sounded like I was trying to avoid that maybe?!
I've never been to a garage that I would trust with my Fiat, but in almost every aspect, whilst mysterious to many younger people, the workings of a Fiat 500 are very simple. The electics are notorious for corrosion on the terminals; bad earths are the worst thing. Even wiggling the fuses or lightly sanding the ends of them can give short-term results.
Is your car a LHD import?
You could make your plea for a reputable mechanic on: https://www.facebook.com/search/top?q=highland classic motor club
I'm away on holiday tomorrow, but I'll PM you and maybe you'll allow me to look at the little marvel when I get back. I could bring the workshop manual and all the right tools.
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Absolutely. The car was imported, restored 10 years ago but then used very little to the extent that most connectors and bolts/screws still look pretty fresh. I’m not much good beyond very basic stuff but will be trying to check bulbs and earthing if I can in coming days. I think there’s just some things need shaking out of its system, the structure, engine and bodywork are good. I’ll await message and you’ll be welcome to look. Happy holidays…
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Been very fortunate to get some wisdom and support from Peter Thompson as noted on his thread, but so as not to hijack that ….. my issue is the (good, new) battery not holding charge so something is draining it. Possibly connected to this, the green light on the instrument cluster for direction indicators is always on when ignition on (though does flash when the stalk is in the left/right turn position. All lights appear to work 
. I’ve seen the post, thanks, re a tester, and another thought about using croc clips and multimeter to test fuse by fuse, so will be trying to progress that when I can. Meantime any other thoughts welcome - sorry, I’m not great at linking and referencing threads!
. I’ve seen the post, thanks, re a tester, and another thought about using croc clips and multimeter to test fuse by fuse, so will be trying to progress that when I can. Meantime any other thoughts welcome - sorry, I’m not great at linking and referencing threads!
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…. And this morning’s exciting news is no fuel delivery (very little in the inline glass filter). Does anyone know if there’s a way to tell what’s wrong, whether sender or pump (looks new) or something else? I will get there in the end!
Don't bother with the filters just yet. It's more likely to be something simple; dare I say it, your fuel gauge may be lying to you.
Have you verified that fuel isn't being delivered to the carb by removing the fuel pipe and turning the engine over a few times? It was running well, so not likely to be something serious.
Some cars notoriously leak fuel back to the tank when garaged, and can take ages to prime. The glass filter won't necessarily ever look completely full, even when running..
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I did wonder about the fuel gauge, but as part of my rescue efforts was brought a can of fuel just in case. Using that and a jump start got me started again, but it ground to a halt again 1/2 mile later. I’ll be trying a start again next day or two, as some progress is made on the charging issues. As you say, was running well, and pipes, pump and tank all look quite fresh, so 
.
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Forgot to add - when yo say remove the fuel pipe, where best to do this? At the carb or the fuel pump I assume?
Remove it where it feeds the carb. Safest to get someone to crank the engine whilst you hold the pipe over a container to catch the fuel. After no more than 30 seconds, and probably quicker, fuel should gush out.
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Bit more progress here …. Fuse 1 is,as I believe should be for an L, the horn and the rear view mirror light (?!). This must be helpful though I can’t see how it plays with the direction indicator dashboard light being on all the time. At least I can give an electrician a head start. By the way if anyone has tips on getting the instrument binnacle off …. I’ll have a look round the forum (which is a real help) for anything on that.
….. and your suggestion Peter is right - there is fuel flow, and when all connected back up the beast starts up fine. However, why did it stall I am left wondering, and do I dare take it out again past the point where it can be pushed home?!
….. and your suggestion Peter is right - there is fuel flow, and when all connected back up the beast starts up fine. However, why did it stall I am left wondering, and do I dare take it out again past the point where it can be pushed home?!
Are you saying that fuse one seems to be the problem? If so, and if it feeds the interior light and horn, you could start by removing the fuse and seeing if the battery keeps charge.
I wonder if you are getting vapour-lock with fuel. I've had the same experience today and had to temporarily park on the Sainsbury roundabout.
I've topped up with E5 to see if it makes a difference. My car is running hot after its layup, so I'm going to check timing and mixture tomorrow.
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Yes, fuse 1 seems to be the issue, multimeter shows no drain with it removed, “1” (amp?) with it in place. I’m going to get one of those discarnect isolators to make life easier.
Sorry to hear about your unconventional parking episode. I guess I should check the mixture as well, I did a bit of experimenting either the 2 screws to see if I could get a better/quicker idle without choke, and I have little doubt this may have had unintended consequences - that’s the story of most of my efforts!
Sorry to hear about your unconventional parking episode. I guess I should check the mixture as well, I did a bit of experimenting either the 2 screws to see if I could get a better/quicker idle without choke, and I have little doubt this may have had unintended consequences - that’s the story of most of my efforts!
Next thing, I would remove the spade connectors at the horn, tape up to prevent them from shorting, put the fuse back in, and retest.
Regarding the engine stopping after a short time on a run; I've now tried everything that I thought obvious with the same problem on my car. Then I looked closely at the points, which were making a good spark. It looked like the gap, which should be approximately 0.5mm at the high point on the cam-lobe, was almost closed up, (although I didn't have my specs on.) So I am now theorising that expansion with heat was closing that gap. I roughly gapped it by eye and it sparked into life.
I will be chaging the points for new, as the fibre heel looks worn. It's an easy thing to check and to sort out, as is the ignition timing, and both make a big difference to performance. I'll have some time on my hands the week after next, and maybe give you a hand with that.
I will be chaging the points for new, as the fibre heel looks worn. It's an easy thing to check and to sort out, as is the ignition timing, and both make a big difference to performance. I'll have some time on my hands the week after next, and maybe give you a hand with that.
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That’d be great but don’t feel obliged.. I have located, on the forum I think, an idiot’s guide to the idle and mixture screws, but many decades have passed since I played with points, and I see my feeler gauges are now a block of solid rust!
I’ve disconnected the horn now and that confirms or seems to that it is where the current drain is. The earth on the horn itself seems secure. I’m therefore trying to work out what to undo to find the other earth connection at the steering column end.
I’ve disconnected the horn now and that confirms or seems to that it is where the current drain is. The earth on the horn itself seems secure. I’m therefore trying to work out what to undo to find the other earth connection at the steering column end.
I've a feeling that the horn ring at the wheel grounds directly to the steering wheel itself. You ould find that by removing the horn button and surround itself. But it may simply be that an intenal part of the horn, or even part of the terminals on the horn are shorting slightly. somewhere.
Do you still have the permanent warning light for the indicators?
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Yes, in short. Commentary I can find does suggest something of the sort, but at the moment I can’t really interpret it. Under the button/surround is like this, and then I can see there’s a black & yellow earth wire heading away down the column but not sure where it starts and finishes. Same colour earth at the horn so maybe that’s one end..
