Technical Anyone breaking down a 169? Part no. 51759683 (body control) needed

[johnsonolly]

been thinking about this one, struggling to find a cheap and easy way to proceed

You dont always hear the fans due to road noise except at idle. Sometimes you see the coolant temperature gauge alter. Should raise to mid way in the First couple of miles and stay there, Unless the interior heaters are blowing full.


intermittent faults can be a pain. If it was my car I would run around with a flight recorder connected. Set to log the sensors and battery voltage to an SD card to be viewed later. It can get expensive changing thing on a gut feeling only to find the fault still present.

Now its known for the engine failure, hill-hold failure, ESP failure to flash up due to one faulty sensor it seem likely its not as expensive as a new set of electronics. Hopefully Good news.

"stalled almost immediately upon accelerating again and requires another 1-2 restarts before it’s happy"

again this "could" point to a sensor. They sometimes give wild reading then fine when they cool down a bit

I am moving away from earth/wiring fault

if I can't connect to the ECU its probably a traffic jam on the B CAN network most things uses the same two wires. Id probably start by disconnecting the phone receiver and radio and see if then connected.

Never noticed anything awry with temps, gauge goes up to halfway and stays there after the first couple of miles.

What sort of recorder would I need to log any faults please?

For disconnecting, the phone receiver as in the bluetooth module I installed? The one I have is similar to this one, it plugs straight into the back of the radio. And for the radio, would you suggest all the connectors or specific ones.

Thanks again for your help.

 

[koalar]

i can only comment on the one I use which is the

Delphi ds150e expensive, China clones are hit and miss if they will work

however I suspect a cheap less than £5 Bluetooth obd2 adapter and a Android smart phone would do

Bluetooth and iPhones dont do proper two way communication. you will need a slightly more expensive wireless obd2 adapter to work with an iPhone

maybe someone who has used either of the above would chime in with there experiences

funny thing is I have a Bluetooth obd2 I found in a 25p box outside a junk shop but have an iPhone. Found out after 1/2 hour that Bluetooth on the iPhone isn't standard. Connects finr to the others halfs android but their phone or car isnt here at the moment for me to test and I haven't really played with it

 

[DaveMcT]

Has anyone tried the MultiECUScan for iPhone? Their website has minimal information. Maybe they dont want to sell it.

 

[johnsonolly]

i can only comment on the one I use which is the

Delphi ds150e expensive, China clones are hit and miss if they will work

however I suspect a cheap less than £5 Bluetooth obd2 adapter and a Android smart phone would do

Bluetooth and iPhones dont do proper two way communication. you will need a slightly more expensive wireless obd2 adapter to work with an iPhone

maybe someone who has used either of the above would chime in with there experiences

funny thing is I have a Bluetooth obd2 I found in a 25p box outside a junk shop but have an iPhone. Found out after 1/2 hour that Bluetooth on the iPhone isn't standard. Connects finr to the others halfs android but their phone or car isnt here at the moment for me to test and I haven't really played with it

Okay cheers. Got one on order from Amazon, I have an android so should connect up fine. Will unplug the radio and see if I can get a reading at all

 

[koalar]

dont bother unplugging anything first. It might not be needed. Fingers crossed it will just work.

 

[johnsonolly]

dont bother unplugging anything first. It might not be needed. Fingers crossed it will just work.

Okay. I had bought a £10 OBDII code reader from Aldi when I first started to get the problem and that wouldn't even connect properly, and nothing has been replaced since, so not sure if it will or not.
New bluetooth one arrives tomorrow so will update once I've tested it

 

[lambou1d]

Not sure this will help but I had a similar fault on a new land rover - would sometimes stall under heavy load or acceleration. Then wouldn't restart and ECU error code. After dozens of Land Rover techs, including from the factory, thought it an ECU/wiring issue, turns out it was a crack in the fuel filter housing drawing in air to the fuel.
Think you should look at the sensors etc before assuming the BCU/ECU has got a fault.

 

[koalar]

Okay. I had bought a £10 OBDII code reader from Aldi when I first started to get the problem and that wouldn't even connect properly, and nothing has been replaced since, so not sure if it will or not.
New bluetooth one arrives tomorrow so will update once I've tested it

visibly check the OBD port for corrosion and damage pins

when you plug the Aldi scanner in, but not yet turned the ignition on, does the unit power on, (screen fire up)

 

[DaveMcT]

My 100HP refused to start after the 2020 lockdown. No fault codes. Battery might have been low so charged it. No difference.
I suspected fuel pump issues. Removed rear seat, ran a 12V wire direct to the pump. Momentary contact gave fuel flow at the fuel rail. Pump OK.
I installed Multi-ECU-Scan on a PC and connected to the car via good quality OBD adapters. Nothing. I assumed my computer or MES were faulty. They were fine. The problem was no power at the OBD port. Ahah! Problem confirmed.
I pulled EVERY single fuse in the car (one-by-one) and tested with 12V continuity light. All OK. I know blown fuses are visible but wanted to be 100% sure. Car would not start.
I pulled every relay and tested for action and continuity. All operated and switched 12V even with 9V at the solenoid.
I went for dinner. Came back later, replaced the relays and the car started like it always does.
I never found the cause, but suspect it was a sticking relay or contact that got disturbed by testing. I had replaced the same relay type into the sockets but did not worry about exactly the same relay going to their original sockets.
The fault has never returned.

 

[johnsonolly]

visibly check the OBD port for corrosion and damage pins

when you plug the Aldi scanner in, but not yet turned the ignition on, does the unit power on, (screen fire up)

New scanner has arrived. Get a red light and a flashing green one. The lights turn off if I push on the bottom of the connector and turn back on when pushed up.

This is what my app looks like currently:

 

[johnsonolly]

Checked all fuses adjacent to obd port, all are fine. Still no connection from the scanner to the ECU. Seems to be quite a lot of movement in the scanner, maybe due to loose sockets in the female end?
All the connectors appear corrosion free, but the size of the slots does seem to vary between them.
Radio has been unplugged from all but the antenna and still no connection.

 

[koalar]

Checked all fuses adjacent to obd port, all are fine. Still no connection from the scanner to the ECU. Seems to be quite a lot of movement in the scanner, maybe due to loose sockets in the female end?
All the connectors appear corrosion free, but the size of the slots does seem to vary between them.
Radio has been unplugged from all but the antenna and still no connection.

View attachment 405506

ignore fuse, relays

First off there is no relays involved in the power or ground between the body computer and the obd2 connector


there is one fuse. But this must be okay due to the fact the power light on the adaptor comes on


at least one of the grounds in the obd2 must also be okay

please dont waste any more time going down this avenue

it would be a valid direction, if the adaptor didn't power up, which is why I asked if the light came on.

 

[koalar]

The lights turn off if I push on the bottom of the connector and turn back on when pushed up.

this is pointing strongly to the fact the contacts in the obd2 connector have spread open

 

[koalar]

thanks for the photo

it looks to me like the contacts on the rights side of the connector are damaged

have you got a paper clip handy ?

 

[johnsonolly]

thanks for the photo

it looks to me like the contacts on the rights side of the connector are damaged

have you got a paper clip handy ?

Didn't at the time but I do now, will check the pressure required for each of the contacts tomorrow.
Is there a way to close the contacts back up if that are loose?

 

[johnsonolly]

For some reason the video you had linked didn't show when I first viewed the post, will check that tomorrow too

 

[koalar]

For some reason the video you had linked didn't show when I first viewed the post, will check that tomorrow too

probably wasn't there when you First looked

i was going to explain the drag test but then found a video so popped it into the original post which was better and saved me the bother

here the pins we are mainly interested in

Red are needed to power up the adapter and communicate to the engine diagnostics

if the green aren't present the software might throw a fit and refuse to go any further

 

[johnsonolly]

probably wasn't there when you First looked

i was going to explain the drag test but then found a video so popped it into the original post which was better and saved me the bother

here the pins we are mainly interested in

Red are needed to power up the adapter and communicate to the engine diagnostics

if the green aren't present the software might throw a fit and refuse to go any further

View attachment 405513

Removed all the connectors, reset them to be a tighter fit, put them all back in and now there's virtually no play in the reader when connected.
Managed to short it out though, so replaced the obd port fuse, got power back, but same result overall.
Red light indicating power, flashing green light.

 

[koalar]

Removed all the connectors, reset them to be a tighter fit, put them all back in and now there's virtually no play in the reader when connected.
Managed to short it out though, so replaced the obd port fuse, got power back, but same result overall.
Red light indicating power, flashing green light.

I take it the power light stays on when you wiggle the adapter now !

 

[johnsonolly]

I take it the power light stays on when you wiggle the adapter now !

Yep! No play in it at all anymore