Technical Aaaand more problems (head gasket, overheating, etc.)

[oboojoe]

Hi everybody. Second big problem, second post (sorry, can't link to the first one, as I don't have 5 posts yet).

Car's a -99 mk1 punto 60sx auto.

As per the previous overheating problems, I reinstalled the thermostat (w. new seal) and the radiator, flushed the cooling system, etc.

Car ran with no particular problems for several weeks, apart from that it ran about halfway between the middle and the 3/4 marks on the engine temp, i.e. slightly above middle temp, but not dangerously so.

Then, one day, stuck in a traffic jam on the motorway (to drop off family at the airport to take their flight home - sod's law says that's when things will go wrong, right?), she starts overheating like crazy, a wisp of white smoke coming out of the engine compartment every now and then (faint enough that it took us a while to figure out if it was our engine or the exhaust of the car in front).

Pulled over to the hard shoulder, waited for it to cool down. Noticed that the coolant pressure cap had sprayed a little coolant inside (later found out that this is indicative of too much pressure, not a faulty cap). After cooling down, we took it very tenderly to the first exit - noticed more white smoke out the engine compartment and out the exhaust pipe - parked at a petrol station, family took taxi to airport, while I waited for the tow truck.

The truck comes, repairman Ricky says it's a blown head gasket, probably due to a faulty fan switch. Says he can tell not only by my description of the breakdown (white smoke, etc.), but also because when he fills up the coolant reservoir with water and leaves the cap off, running the engine causes it to spit out.

I tell him I had a similar issue a while back, when replacing the radiator, I forgot to screw in the upper bleed screw (not the one on the rad), and starting the engine that time had also lead to coolant/water gushing out. Ricky informed me that was a sign of a failing/failed head gasket already back then.

So I've got my sockets, my torque wrench, a new head gasket set (incl. 10 new bolts), a new timing belt and tensioner, new water pump (just in case), and a new fan switch, and am ready to go to work. What I need from this forum's esteemed members is answers to the following questions:

1) Does everything sound correct with Ricky's opinion/what I've noted above?

2) To get under the timing belt cover, is the easiest method to support the bottom of the oil sump, and thereby the engine, with a piece of wood on the spacesaver jack, and remove the mounting bolts/plate? This seems easier to me than buying a proper hydraulic jack and removing the righthand wheel and wheelarch...

3) In terms of money-saving, how important is it to get an angle-wrench for angle-tightening the head bolts to stages 2 and 3? Can't 90 degrees be pretty much sussed out without the need for the extra equipment?

4) My torque wrench has a minimum of 30 Nm, which is a lot higher than the requirements for some of the bolts. Does anybody know whether any of the DIY stores rent out lower-setting torque wrenches in an affordable manner?

5) Do I really need to remove everything around the throttle housing, like the Hayne's manual states, to get the cylinder head off? How about the spark plugs?

6) As regards the timing belt, so long as I follow the instructions very carefully and to the dot, is it really all THAT important to get the belt tensioned at a specialist Fiat garage?

Sorry for the questions being somewhat vague at the moment, but I'm kinda in the dark on this one, being the first head gasket/timing belt change I've ever done. The forum has proven a wealth of info so far, but more pointed tips to my specific case are what's needed now.

Cheers,

/oboojoe

 

[Moosey]

1) Does everything sound correct with Ricky's opinion/what I've noted above?

Quite possibly. But you'd need to check more to be certain. Oil/coolant mixing. Compression test. Leakdown test. Cooling pressure test. You could go out on the basis that Fiats seems to blow headgaskets on the regular and on the symptoms noted.

Sounds like the headgasket wasn't the original cause of the overheating, but it could've been caused by it. You can test coolant temp sensors with a multimeter, to determine if that's the problem.

2) To get under the timing belt cover, is the easiest method to support the bottom of the oil sump, and thereby the engine, with a piece of wood on the spacesaver jack, and remove the mounting bolts/plate? This seems easier to me than buying a proper hydraulic jack and removing the righthand wheel and wheelarch...

It's a pressed steel sump, just make sure the jack don't move. If that engine rocks too much it will fall off the jack. You could just stack a bunch of wood under there to make it stable and not use the jack at all. If that engine falls it'll really f**k up your day. And possibly your car too!

3) In terms of money-saving, how important is it to get an angle-wrench for angle-tightening the head bolts to stages 2 and 3? Can't 90 degrees be pretty much sussed out without the need for the extra equipment?

I think i paid £10 for a Laser angle gauge and £30-ish for my used Snap-on one.. How accurate do you want the torque of your headbolts to be?

4) My torque wrench has a minimum of 30 Nm, which is a lot higher than the requirements for some of the bolts. Does anybody know whether any of the DIY stores rent out lower-setting torque wrenches in an affordable manner?

Extremely unlikely. I won't even lend out my torque wrenches to friends. People don't appreciate that they're high-tolerance precision instruments. People don't look after them as they should. My 3/8" Norbar 8nm-something was £87-ish. You can get a Draper one for probably half that. I wouldn't trust a torque wrench that had been lent out.

People use them for breaking nuts/bolts loose, don't unload them after use etc. I'd rather buy my own new one than use one with an unknown history/state of calibration.

5) Do I really need to remove everything around the throttle housing, like the Hayne's manual states, to get the cylinder head off? How about the spark plugs?

You gotta get the head skimmed. It needs to be completely bear. Valves out too. You can probably pull the manifold and leave its accessories attached. (Throttle body, fuel rail, etc.)

6) As regards the timing belt, so long as I follow the instructions very carefully and to the dot, is it really all THAT important to get the belt tensioned at a specialist Fiat garage?

Follow the timing instructions and assuming it has a spring/loaded tensioner, align the correct tension marks. This may require a special too. I use a handbrake spring puller. Works better on Fiats.

 

[oboojoe]

Thanks for the tips so far, Moosey. Thought of the wood blocks under the sump myself right after posting - happy to see it vetted by someone else.

Dunno whether this helps at all with diagnosis, but the dipstick looks good - the oil is still slightly golden-ish (less than half a year old) with no mayo-like substance around. However, the oil filler cap has smth going on. Attaching pics for clarity, as I'm kinda unsure whether it qualifies as "mayo-like" or not. I'm also attaching a pic of the camshaft housing, to the extent that may help narrow things down at all.

I'll keep you posted as things progress. Not least because it might come in handy to somebody else at some future point of time.

Cheers,

/oboojoe

 

[oboojoe]

And in the meantime, how on earth do I get the plug I'm pointing to in the picture out, given that my spanner just starts to strip the soft metal?.. :bang:

/oboojoe

Edit: Oh, and by the way, the timing belt was off by one tooth. I have noticed it idling somewhat weakly/strangely sometimes. Could this be at all related to the HG failure? The car's purchased only a few months ago, so I wouldn't know if off-timing happened due to a slip after buying, or if I've been driving it that way every since buying it, for some 3k miles or so...

And sorry for the pic tilting 90 degrees to the right. Was straight on the camera and comp, dunno why it auto-untilted when I uploaded...

 

[DaveMcT]

The head bolts are not heavily torqued but they are pulled down in 2 or three stages of 90 degrees after the correct torque.

 

[Moosey]

Thanks for the tips so far, Moosey. Thought of the wood blocks under the sump myself right after posting - happy to see it vetted by someone else.

I'd use either the wood or a full size (~5"+ saddle) trolley jack. I use a jack because i have one at my disposal, and being able to raise/lower the engine helps too. You can get a pretty decent one for £60-ish. Try borrow one if you can, it helps being able to move the engine sometimes.

Dunno whether this helps at all with diagnosis, but the dipstick looks good - the oil is still slightly golden-ish (less than half a year old) with no mayo-like substance around. However, the oil filler cap has smth going on. Attaching pics for clarity, as I'm kinda unsure whether it qualifies as "mayo-like" or not. I'm also attaching a pic of the camshaft housing, to the extent that may help narrow things down at all.

The overheating was most likely caused by something else (As you said earlier, possibly the coolant temp/fan sensor.) which then caused the gasket to blow. If the gasket blew then the car overheated you may get mayonnaise. If the gasket blows and the car don't run, no mayo.

I'll keep you posted as things progress. Not least because it might come in handy to somebody else at some future point of time.

Keep us updated, ask any questions you might have. Feel free to PM me if you need anything.

And in the meantime, how on earth do I get the plug I'm pointing to in the picture out, given that my spanner just starts to strip the soft metal?..

Remove that right-angle black rubber boot, there should be a spade connector under it to remove. Looks like a one-wire oil pressure sender to me.

Oh, and by the way, the timing belt was off by one tooth. I have noticed it idling somewhat weakly/strangely sometimes. Could this be at all related to the HG failure? The car's purchased only a few months ago, so I wouldn't know if off-timing happened due to a slip after buying, or if I've been driving it that way every since buying it, for some 3k miles or so...

Don't think so. Off timing can cause power loss and rough running, but not overheating or head gasket failure. When you retime it, use the flywheel marks.

The head bolts are not heavily torqued but they are pulled down in 2 or three stages of 90 degrees after the correct torque.

30nm , then 90 degrees, then another 90 degrees on an 8v.

Headbolt sequence:

8,6,2,5,10
7,3,1,4,9

 

[DaveMcT]

I only have the HGT details hardly appropriate to post on this thread, but when you get the new bolts read their own instructions.

Fiat instructions for mine were 30nm followed by 3 x 90 degrees. The bolts package said, 15nm, 30nm, Slack by 90 degs then torque to 30nm and finally 3 x 90 degrees. The bolts own instructions were increasing the load more gradually.

Dont forget to clean out all of the head bolt holes - water/oil in them will affect the torque settings. Also be sure to put the head gasket on correctly - make sure the oil feed is not covered.

 

[Moosey]

I dip the bolt threads in diesel to lube them. I find it's not too thin and not too oily, works good for me.

 

[DaveMcT]

WD40 will also do but diesel's cheaper.
But I'm sure Moosey also fully cleans out the bolt holes. Any water or oil in there can hydraulic under the bolt and affect the torque settings. I use a 50ml hydroponics syringe and short length of silicone hose, followed by a twisted non linting rag.

 

[oboojoe]

Latest updates!

Alrighty, several things learned, some new questions...

First of all, jacking was less problematic than expected, once I realized (duh!) that it's not required over time. Instead of jacking and stacking boards of wood for safety underneath relevant points and leaving until all done, much easier - of course - to jack (with boards for safety), remove front righthand wheel to access auxiliary drivebelts and cambelt, do the bare minimum of whatever needs wheelarch access, then reattach the tyre and lower the car back down. No reason to leave the poor thing jacked up while putting lotsa pressure on various bolts and what-not inside engine. This is probably totally given for those with experience, but constituted quite the "aha!" experience for meself. In any case, I got proper 2-ton fixed-base axle stands, so they'll come in handy whenever I next need to jack, i.e. reassembly-time.

On a related note, the Haynes manual says to jack the front with a trolley jack under the gear differential. Is it perhaps to be preferred to jack under the front sill arrow on one side, insert axle stand, then move to other side? I'm just concerned whether jacking via the differential is the strongest/safest option.

Secondly, as far as I gather, there is no particular point doing a compression test when you know the HG is blown, insofar as it will be difficult to diagnose possible other problems between the busted HG giving various compression problems... What I mean is: isn't it better to replace the HG and only THEN compression test to see if there are any other possible problens? Sure, plenty of work to reassemble and possibly need to disassemble all over again if there are other problems, but at least a spanking new properly installed HG won't muck about with the compression test results anymore.

On a similar line - a question: if a compression test shows nothing unusual, is it still worth doing a leakdown and cooling system pressure test? Or are they only used as a further diagnosis-tool if and when something is wrong with the compression test? I guess what I'm asking is, given that I now have a compression tester, if, once everything is fixed up nicely, it shows spot-on values, is there any need to do further tests?

As regards skimming: the Haynes manual states a method of checking for straightness of the cylinder head (straight edge and feeler blade). I still haven't got to that stage, but if it were to show nothing wrong, should I STILL get the cylinder head skimmed, just for good measure? Furthermore, skimming only needs to be done to the cylinder head, and not the engine block, right? As far as I understand, the block (with the crankshaft and water pump) is cast iron, and thus much more resistant to warping, yeah? If it also needs skimming, it seems a much bigger job to get it out of the car...,

Ok, otherwise, here's the state of progress. I've managed to get al the bits disattached from the cylinder head. The large breather hose is still attached, and has a bit of mayo-like substance inside it - spose i'll get a new clip for it and disattach it. Also, the wire with the spade connector (thank you Moosey!) is disconnected, but the connector (red plastic bit) and practically-stripped nut is still attached. Is that something I need to remove as well? If so, what's the best place to start with getting a stripped nut off?

Right, I figured that while doing the HG, I might as well give the enitre cylinder head a once-over, not only to make sure everything is right with it, but also to learn how it's all put together. So I've been a good boy, bagging and labelling the various parts. The aim is to take it apart entirely, give it a super-clean, then possibly skim and reattach.

So the stage I'm at now is I've got the camshaft sprocket and camshaft removed. Now, the Haynes manual states that I should remove the shims and cam followers, but not whether to take them off as one piece (see pic) or one at a time. Does this make any difference? If so, what's the easiest way of removing the shims without the special fiat c-spanner bit for pushing the cam followers down?

Second, is there any safe and convenient way to disassemble the valve components without a valve spring compressor (see second pic)? I assume I need to disassemble them to really clean the head properly all over, and, of course, to be able to do a proper inspection. I'm just hoping I won't have to go out and purchase yet another specialist tool that I may not need again for the next few years. I mean, combination spanners and torque wrenches will always come in handy, but a valve spring compressor?

Sorry for the essay-length post. I'm hoping the extra words provide the extra precision to make sure i don't get silly things wrong.

Cheers,

/oboojoe

 

[Moosey]

First of all, jacking was less problematic than expected, once I realized (duh!) that it's not required over time. Instead of jacking and stacking boards of wood for safety underneath relevant points and leaving until all done, much easier - of course - to jack (with boards for safety), remove front righthand wheel to access auxiliary drivebelts and cambelt, do the bare minimum of whatever needs wheelarch access, then reattach the tyre and lower the car back down. No reason to leave the poor thing jacked up while putting lotsa pressure on various bolts and what-not inside engine. This is probably totally given for those with experience, but constituted quite the "aha!" experience for meself. In any case, I got proper 2-ton fixed-base axle stands, so they'll come in handy whenever I next need to jack, i.e. reassembly-time.

As long as nothing moves or falls out, it's all good. I leave the car supported with the wheel off and the engine supported while working because it's easier for me. Realistically, don't make no difference. I have the slight advantage of having 2 jacks and 8 axle stands though..

For yourself, whatever works good for you and supports the right parts at the right times.

On a related note, the Haynes manual says to jack the front with a trolley jack under the gear differential. Is it perhaps to be preferred to jack under the front sill arrow on one side, insert axle stand, then move to other side? I'm just concerned whether jacking via the differential is the strongest/safest option.

Haynes is wrong; you don't jack a car up via the gearbox. Diff on a live axle, yes. Diff on an independant rear suspension, sometimes. On a transverse layout like this, no. It's a good way of rapidly separating engine/gearbox and car..

As you said, jack up one side at a time and support it with an axle stand. You can jack up the front in one go via the subframe, but if you don't need to, don't. One side at a time is fine.

Secondly, as far as I gather, there is no particular point doing a compression test when you know the HG is blown, insofar as it will be difficult to diagnose possible other problems between the busted HG giving various compression problems... What I mean is: isn't it better to replace the HG and only THEN compression test to see if there are any other possible problens? Sure, plenty of work to reassemble and possibly need to disassemble all over again if there are other problems, but at least a spanking new properly installed HG won't muck about with the compression test results anymore.

You do the compression test before pulling the head, it helps you determine if there is a problem. If you're getting mayo, you can then do a compression test to determine if cylinders are showing low compression, as that will help in diagnosis.

Doing a compression test after changing the head gasket will only tell you if you're losing compression via valves not sealing properly, rings not sealing properly or the gasket not sealing properly. Head gaskets and bolts aren't reuseable, once you done 'em, if you pull the head you gotta buy a new gasket and bolts. If the gasket was leaking (mayo being a giveaway) and the valves are good there shouldn't be a problem.

You can still do a test after, just to be sure.

On a similar line - a question: if a compression test shows nothing unusual, is it still worth doing a leakdown and cooling system pressure test? Or are they only used as a further diagnosis-tool if and when something is wrong with the compression test? I guess what I'm asking is, given that I now have a compression tester, if, once everything is fixed up nicely, it shows spot-on values, is there any need to do further tests?

A leakdown test is best for determining if valves are holding pressure properly and if rings are sealing properly. If you know the head gasket was at fault, not much point doing a leakdown. (Plus testers are expensive, and you need compressed air supply.)

Cooling system pressure test, probably not much point doing it if you know the head gasket's blown. It is worth hooking the (garden) hose up to the heater and radiator, give them a good flush to get any crap out.

If the compression test comes out good, should be fine.

As regards skimming: the Haynes manual states a method of checking for straightness of the cylinder head (straight edge and feeler blade). I still haven't got to that stage, but if it were to show nothing wrong, should I STILL get the cylinder head skimmed, just for good measure? Furthermore, skimming only needs to be done to the cylinder head, and not the engine block, right? As far as I understand, the block (with the crankshaft and water pump) is cast iron, and thus much more resistant to warping, yeah? If it also needs skimming, it seems a much bigger job to get it out of the car...

If it's within spec, don't worry about getting it skimmed, no need. However, straight edges start at £60 and go up steeply from there. I get heads skimmed for £47, it's probably cheaper to just drop it off and get it skimmed. Alternatively, you can take it down to a machine shop and ask them to check it for you. Usually they'll check for free, or if they do change they usuall wave the charge if you have it skimmed.

Yes, the block is cast iron and won't need skimming, just clean up the deck surfact with a wire brush (Not too aggressive) and fine emery cloth. Clean the cylinder bores too, make sure there's no dirt or anything in the cylinders.

Change the waterpump too. If it fails you'll be pulling the cambelt again.

Ok, otherwise, here's the state of progress. I've managed to get al the bits disattached from the cylinder head. The large breather hose is still attached, and has a bit of mayo-like substance inside it - spose i'll get a new clip for it and disattach it. Also, the wire with the spade connector (thank you Moosey!) is disconnected, but the connector (red plastic bit) and practically-stripped nut is still attached. Is that something I need to remove as well? If so, what's the best place to start with getting a stripped nut off?

Those clips are a bitch, just break it off with a screwdriver and replace it with a Jubilee clamp.

Can you get a socket on the sensor? A 6 point one should remove it without damage. It looks like an oil pressure sender. Don't need to replace it. If you can't get it out without damage don't worry. Waterpump pliers would remove it, as would a pipe wrench. But they're likely damage it on removal. I've got all manner of tools for removing stripped out stuff, if you ain't got to remove it, don't.

Right, I figured that while doing the HG, I might as well give the enitre cylinder head a once-over, not only to make sure everything is right with it, but also to learn how it's all put together. So I've been a good boy, bagging and labelling the various parts. The aim is to take it apart entirely, give it a super-clean, then possibly skim and reattach.

Definitely worth doing. Get some carb cleaner or brake cleaner (An aerosol would be perfect for this.) and that'll clean it fine. Break cleaner's pretty good, carb clean is some strong s**t, and will cut through any dirt and grime, but will affect you skin and will dry it out like crazy.

I find one some of these jobs taking pics as i work helps with remembering how it all goes together.

So the stage I'm at now is I've got the camshaft sprocket and camshaft removed. Now, the Haynes manual states that I should remove the shims and cam followers, but not whether to take them off as one piece (see pic) or one at a time. Does this make any difference? If so, what's the easiest way of removing the shims without the special fiat c-spanner bit for pushing the cam followers down?

Don't worry about splitting the tappets and shims. Just use a permanent marker to show which one corresponds to which valve/cylinder so they go back in the place they came from. With the cam out you don't need a tappet depressor (C-shape thing) to remove the shim.

Second, is there any safe and convenient way to disassemble the valve components without a valve spring compressor (see second pic)? I assume I need to disassemble them to really clean the head properly all over, and, of course, to be able to do a proper inspection. I'm just hoping I won't have to go out and purchase yet another specialist tool that I may not need again for the next few years. I mean, combination spanners and torque wrenches will always come in handy, but a valve spring compressor?

Not really, i've seen people use makeshift valve spring compressors. Like a big C-clamp and a piece of tubing with a slot cut in it for access to the valve collets. You can get a valve spring compressor for £15 and up. Halfords sell them, for about £25-ish i think.

Long tweezers are the best thing to putting valve collets back in place when you can't get your hands in.

You can borrow one of my valve spring compressors if you want, but it's like a 2:30 hour round trip.

You'll most likely need the head stripped bare for skimming. The machine shop may remove/refit them for additional cost though.

Sorry for the essay-length post. I'm hoping the extra words provide the extra precision to make sure i don't get silly things wrong.

It's all good.

 

[bredsticz]

Ahh! I wondered where you went to for this last week moosey! Obviously typing this!

 

[Moosey]

Well, i have a busy schedule of sleeping and replying to threads. This unemployment lark is hard work!

 

[oboojoe]

Just thought to check the spark plug condition, seeing as they're out anyhow. Nos. 1 and 2 have the normal greyish-brown deposits. But nos. 3 and 4 are practically glazed with no deposits at all. Could this (overheating, right?) be caused simply by the timing belt being off by one tooth, or is that insufficient explanation wise. They were changed quite recently (Oct 2009), to whatever extent that may influence things.

Also, while on the topic, is spark plug condition a reliable indicator of valve condition? If (two of) the spark plugs look perfectly normal (and the others are just overheating), does that mean everything's a-ok with the valve guidess otherwise, or do they still need checking, i.e. wear, cracks, pits, movement, etc.?

Cheers,

/oboojoe

PS: Thanks Moosey, for helping me sort through things. Between Haynes and Fiatforum, even a beginner like me can feel relatively sure about what they're doing.

 

[oboojoe]

Aaalright, been a while with updates - been waiting for my valve spring compressor. It finally came, and I removed all the valves from the cylinder head. Probably going to get to cleaning it up tomorrow. In the meantime, I've got some potential diagnostic clues I was wondering if you could give your thoughts on (sorry, no direct clue on the HG, as it was so stuck to the cylinder block and head that it tore apart when I separated them).

1) The valves are different colors, as shown in the first photo (timing belt to left). Does anything here look unusual, e.g. due to overheating in one specific area, such as piston 1 (closest to timing belt). One of the valves (don't remember, but can check if it's at all helpful) was encrusted in black deposits on the inside (i.e. the top of the wide valve end, or the part you don't see until you take it apart).

2) After removing all the valves, had a closer look at the state of the cylinder head in general, and I must say, I'm worried. First of all, see the second photo for the state of the entry coolant hole (from the water pump) - is this much deposit normal, prior to cleaning?

3) Second, it looks to me like using nothing but water (?) for coolant (previous owners) may have caused some major corrosion problems, as in the marked areas of photo 3 (timing belt right), with close-ups of a big-ass missing chunk off the head mating surface in photo 4, and one of the waterway dividers(?) in photo 5. Is that it - kaput? Or is there hope of any sort short of a reconditioned cylinder head?

Should I be thinking about returning the car to the used car lot I got it from, on the basis that they sold me an unusable piece of machinery (in its current state)?

So frustrating!

Cheers,

/oboojoe

 

[Moosey]

That head's f*cked, mate. The aluminium has corroded away, there isn't enough meat on there for a good seal. I bet that was the cause of the gasket going. Time to find a replacement, there are some on eBay for not much money, but you'll need to make sure you get the right one.

 

[oboojoe]

Suspected as much.

So what I'm looking for is pretty much this, yeah? : http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/FIAT-PUNTO-1-...arts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item53e1886f4a (anybody know anything about the seller, Wigan Engine Services?)

Moosey, if this, presumably, caused the HG to blow, is there anything else which needs crucial checking at the moment, e.g. pistons or likewise?

Cheers,

/oboojoe

 

[Moosey]

Is your car single- or multi-point injection? You'll need a matching head, as the inlet ports will likely be a different shape between the two. You could get a decent used head in good condition and swap and neccessary parts, would work out cheaper than a recon head. But with a recon head you know you're getting a good piece that's had a good once over by someone who knows their ****.

If that was the cause of the gasket blowing then the damage is most likely contained to the head itself. The block is cast iron and the pistons are unlikely to have sustaned any damage. Just clean out everything you can. That buildup on the valve is probably thick carbon deposit. Got a piccy?

 

[oboojoe]

I'm assuming it's single-point. Aren't all Mk1 1.2 Puntos? Now that I'm unsure, what's the easiest way to find out - check if there's anything attached to the inlet manifold or what?

I'll supply a pic of the (presumably) carbon deposit this evening or tmrw.

In the meantime, here's the situation: the Consumer Direct people told me that provided I can prove that the car's been running on water instead of proper coolant, thereby causing the cylinder head corrosion, we could probably get our money back. So the question to those of you more in the know is: could "fair wear and tear" on an 11-year old Mk1 Punto amount to the extent of the corrosion in the pics in my last thread post? Or is it a surefire sign of hardcore coolant neglect? Anything else that could've caused the same symptoms?

Cheers,

/oboojoe

 

[oboojoe]

Alrighty,

First off, a pic of the inlet manifold. Am I correct in assuming that since there are no fuel injectors attached to the four individual pipes, but just the throttle attached to the main inlet pipe, before it branches into four, that I therefore have a single-point injection engine?

Second, two pics of, on the one hand, the valve bottoms, and on the other hand, the pistons. All white on the leftmost means overheating there, right?

Then, a pic of the 8 valves, set up so the leftmost is the one from closest to the cambelt, then moving away. Valve 7 has some serious crud on it, which also, coincidentally, happens to be from the cylinder with the big chunk missing on the head of it (as in the photo from a previous post, detailing the cylinder head damage).

Finally, a pic of the spark plugs, again leftmost being closest to the cambelt. The first has greyish deposits, the second brownish, while nos. 3 and 4 look glazed - meaning overheating there, right?

Also, I'll reiterate a previous question in a slightly different way: Is the amount of corrosion (as per the photos in previous posts on this thread) in the cylinder head unusually severe, or is it only to be expected of a -99 Punto?

Cheers,

/oboojoe