Technical 2007 1.2 4x4 Passenger side front Gearbox output seal

[Murena]

<a data-flickr-embed="true" href="" title="20221203_095100"><img src="https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/52543476392_4b17cfe53a_z.jpg" width="480" height="640" alt="20221203_095100"></a><script async src="//embedr.flickr.com/assets/client-code.js" charset="utf-8"></script>

As per the photo I have a leaking seal. I am quite happy to change it myself but have a few questions.

Do you need to remove the drive shaft from the hub or can you get enough room by breaking the ball joint then swinging the whole lot out of the way?
Does anyone have the correct part number for the seal 'unit'/ housing ?
Can you get the seal by itself instead of in the housing ?
Does anyone have any dimensions for the seal ?

 

[DaveMcT]

The drive shaft has to be taken out and the seal cover removed.
You will need to drop the gear oil and remove the LHS hub and strut. You get the chance to check the strut top bearing.
You will also need a wedge to spring the driveshaft retaining ring/clip. If you have a lift a pry-bar does it.
HOWEVER the oil leak might not be the shaft seal. Use a flashlight and mirror to look at the gear shifter seal. This rotates and slides so wears fast. Oil runs onto the driveshaft. You will need a new seal and roll pin. You will probably not need to replace the circlip that hides under a gear lever bias spring seat. You will need to photograph the shifter before stripping down as the springs are easy to position wrongly.

 

[Murena]

@DaveMcT , Thanks for the reply I actually did this job Saturday morning. ~ 1 1/2hr
Very simple just the Tie rod and ball joint to remove and there is enough room to pull the drive shaft out at the inner joint then removed the seal holder. Pulled the old seal and pressed the new one back.
Yes it was this seal not the gear shift seal

Of Note the seal sits on a shouldered section so when you sense check its the right size in the holder it looks too small as you can't see the shoulder until there is no seal.
Also make sure you can remove the filler point (12mm Allen in this case) before you start any fluid change or job like this

 

[koalar]

@DaveMcT ,
Very simple just the Tie rod and ball joint to remove and there is enough

Correct just the same as when dropping the gearbox

Well done in getting it sorted

 

[DaveMcT]

I tried it this way but couldn't make enough space. But didn't try very hard, because the struts needed replacing. Its easy enough to remove the hub and shaft as a unit. You also get to treat the bolts with anti seize. Especially the bottom ball joint pinch bolt which is always rusty.

 

[koalar]

I tried it this way but couldn't make enough space. But didn't try very hard, because the struts needed replacing. Its easy enough to remove the hub and shaft as a unit. You also get to treat the bolts with anti seize. Especially the bottom ball joint pinch bolt which is always rusty.

There’s loads of room ?

 

[DaveMcT]

I am not short of wedges and pry bars but spent ages struggling to loosen the driveshafts on 100HP. The car was on axle stands as you have in picture. The wedge/cold chisel/whatever just bounced out. I split a ball joint wedge and welded in a spacer to give two prongs appropriately spaced. It gets the job done with one thump to each side.

The 100HP would not let me get the inner joints out even with the bottom ball joint disconnected. But I was changing the clutch, so removing LH strut made sense and RH is easy enough to remove as well.

Diesel was easiest to shift the inner shafts from gearbox. This time I need new struts but again the shafts did not want to fully separate from the gearbox.

1.2 petrol clutch, I just whipped off the struts, hubs and shafts - its no big deal. As said the job is much easier with LHS strut out of the way.

 

[koalar]

I am not short of wedges and pry bars but spent ages struggling to loosen the driveshafts on 100HP. The car was on axle stands as you have in picture.

it is a 100HP in the video

That always the very easy side as you have a direct access for the chisel and easy swing

You don’t have to hit it hard just a decent weight 3lb is what I use. I’d be upset if it didn’t come apart in the first couple of blows. If it didn’t I would spin the shaft through 180 degrees

 

[DaveMcT]

I agree they "should" come out easily. Mine were such a pain, the hassle of cutting and welding the ball joint fork was preferable. It works perfectly. Who knows if its a placebo effect.