Technical 2004 panda active 1.1 no start

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Technical 2004 panda active 1.1 no start

Callsignstar

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hi all new to the forum I'm having a major issue with my 2004 panda 1.1 active. it has fuel in the tank, a charged up battery, oil and water and is able to turn over but wont start. I've worked in older cars from the 60s and have more time working on bikes. I believe it may be a eclectic issues or possibly a fuel issue. I wasn't able to get my snake cam into the cylinders but I believe there all ok and non deformed. if anyone has any tips or a close idea to what the issue could be that would be very apricated.
 
What lights come when you turn the ignition on
Is there a buzz from under the rear seat for a couple of seconds
What lights go out after a few seconds
Whatl lights go out as you crank the egine
As you crank does the rev counter bump off its rest
As its cranking does it sound faster than normal

With some feedback we would know

If the key is recognise
If the ecu is talking to the BSI and dash
If the fuel cut off is open
If the pump is priming
If there is a crank signal
If the cam belt is snspped
 
Hi :)

If its DEFINITELY not immobilised.. and you can HEAR the fuel pump priming ;)

Worth getting the tools out and checking the TimingBelt ( cambelt)

1.1's can throw the timing.. my 1.1 had your symptoms when it jumped 7 teeth

Retimed it was fine for years (y)
hi i was driving it when it broke down. as i was driving the throttle went dead and the engine stopped completely.
 
What lights come when you turn the ignition on
Is there a buzz from under the rear seat for a couple of seconds
What lights go out after a few seconds
Whatl lights go out as you crank the egine
As you crank does the rev counter bump off its rest
As its cranking does it sound faster than normal

With some feedback we would know

If the key is recognise
If the ecu is talking to the BSI and dash
If the fuel cut off is open
If the pump is priming
If there is a crank signal
If the cam belt is snspped
the lights that stay on while im truning the key and the crankshaft is turning. are the check engine light battery light and oil light. ill have to get back to you on the buzz from the rear seat. i can confirm there is a buzz from behind the reart seat. when cranking the engine does sound a little slow.
 
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the lights that stay on while im truning the key and the crankshaft is turning. are the check engine light battery light and oil light. ill have to get back to you on the buzz from the rear seat.
As @koalar said, the answers to those questions will move things forward a lot.
As a coincidence, I have had 2 1.1 Actives with the fuel cut-off triggered in the last 3 weeks.
(Along with another with a disconnected crank sensor... "it just stopped when I hit a pothole'. How hard did you hit it? "It made a really big bang".... lots of mechanical sympathy there!)
 
Correct

Correct

Should go out after a couple of seconds of cranking

Cheers

Handbrake light should also be on
handbrake light is on and so is the power stering warning light but thats been on for years. the oil light doesnt go out and there is plently of oil in the pan.
 
EPS, immobiliser and airbag should come on for a few second and go out

This would confirm two way communication between each modules
thats what i can see happening ass i turn the key all dash lights come on for a few seconds then the only one that stay on are the check engine light, battery light and oil warning light.
 
This small bit of information helps
The immobiliser shouldn't come on while driving. Not 100% but unlikely
i remember that earlier in the day the car refused to start. i tried a couple times before it did start and i drove off. at first i just thought it was playing up but then when it died while i was driving is secondary to that. it did sputter a little a couple 100 meters before it completely stopped.
 
thats what i can see happening ass i turn the key all dash lights come on for a few seconds then the only one that stay on are the check engine light, battery light and oil warning light.
That's great (Immo) light comes on and goes off

The key is seen by the BSI sent to the ECU
The sent it back to the BSI and the BSI has then told the instrument/dash to turn the light of


Its likely most of the major electronics are okay
 
i remember that earlier in the day the car refused to start. i tried a couple times before it did start and i drove off. at first i just thought it was playing up but then when it died while i was driving is secondary to that. it did sputter a little a couple 100 meters before it completely stopped.
Great

These older cars have two sperate coils it will start and idle roughly on one coil

Its unlikely to be ignition coil, leads or plugs


The fact it played up a bit first probably rules out the fuel cut off



Does sound like a fuel pump, but more tests would be needed to confirm


The buzz under the seat would be a good starting pkace
 
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My 1.1 active was very reliable

I thought my pump had failed when the car started at 8 am.. drove 10 feet then wouldnt restart 5 minutes later to reverse back... it was the cambelt ( got towed to a specialist...)

No sound from fuel pump..as it kept a full rail pressure.. ;)
probably worth SAFELY... pressing the schrader valve to bleed of fuel pressure

My 1.1 active..also an 04 ...
covered 90 - odd thousand in its 14 years with me..

I think the dodgy coil looms people mention were on later cars... we had an
07 briefy... it didnt run well
 
No sound from fuel pump..as it kept a full rail pressure.. ;)
probably worth SAFELY... pressing the schrader valve to bleed of fuel pressure
I had a
05
06
10

They all prime for about 2 seconds every time you turn on the ignition, regardless of line pressure


Unless theys are faulty they don't make much noise. Radio off, windows up and helps if someone is in the back listening
 
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