Brought this cabriolet as a non runner, cranks doesnt start.

Previous owner changed the fuel pump, not sure sender is working as fuel gague doesnt rise when key is in the 2nd position.

How can i troubleshoot this. 85bhp cabriolet

You should be able to hear the fuel pump running when you turn the ignition to the on position. If that is running then next step would be to remove the plugs and check for a spark. If thats there then all thats left is a compression check.

FlowerFiatx said:

Brought this cabriolet as a non runner, cranks doesnt start.

Previous owner changed the fuel pump, not sure sender is working as fuel gague doesnt rise when key is in the 2nd position.

How can i troubleshoot this. 85bhp cabriolet

Click to expand...

Carefully add 2 littes of new unleaded fuel.. just to be sure

Yes you need air,fuel and a spark

Noddy said:

You should be able to hear the fuel pump running when you turn the ignition to the on position. If that is running then next step would be to remove the plugs and check for a spark. If thats there then all thats left is a compression check.

Click to expand...

How do i safely do a compression test on this car.

FlowerFiatx said:

How do i safely do a compression test on this car.

Click to expand...

Standard method..
Disable fuel supply.. remove a spark plug.. screw the tester in


Is it definitely clearing the immobiliser..
So fuel and sparks are reliably supplied ?

varesecrazy said:

Standard method..
Disable fuel supply.. remove a spark plug.. screw the tester in


Is it definitely clearing the immobiliser..
So fuel and sparks are reliably supplied ?

Click to expand...

All 4 plugs should be removed and throttle held open for compression tests.

Before you get carried away about compression (although you need it).
1. You say engine cranks but is it trying to fire? or just cranking.
2. Is fuel getting from the injector? Take air box off have someone crank engine and look done on injector, if damp then fuel is coming out.
3. Is there spark at the plugs? take plugs out one at a time hold spark plug onto engine still connected to lead (make sure you use insulated pliers or only touch plastic insulator). Have someone turn engine over while you look for spark.
We need these results to help you!!!

Chris parry said:

Before you get carried away about compression (although you need it).
1. You say engine cranks but is it trying to fire? or just cranking.
2. Is fuel getting from the injector? Take air box off have someone crank engine and look done on injector, if damp then fuel is coming out.
3. Is there spark at the plugs? take plugs out one at a time hold spark plug onto engine still connected to lead (make sure you use insulated pliers or only touch plastic insulator). Have someone turn engine over while you look for spark.
We need these results to help you!!!

Click to expand...

It actually doesn't sound like its trying to fire, just cranking.

If its only cranking and not trying to fire you are missing something. so move on to points 2 and 3.
You are trying to workout what's missing so look to see if fuel is getting there (point 2). then as stated check for spark (point 3).

If it was a compression problem you would be puffing smoke and engine would be at least trying to fire or possibly firing and running rough!

Also any history from the guy you got it from about how it stopped running? Is it definitely the right key (coded to the ECU)?

forget compression test for now...

First thing to check is does the pump prime when you turn the ignition on.
You should hear it but if not you can take the fuel pipe off the fuel rail, put the pipe into a cup or something and cycle the ignition, it should prime and fuel come out (will come out fast but only for a second as it primes).
If it doesnt then you need to test theres actually power going to the pump with a multimeter, you can also check the earth side as well. How this works is the ecu tell the pump relay to activate, which sends 12v to the pump, the earth side is just straight to earth but through an inertia switch so if theres no ground the inertia switch could have activated (not likely so won't go into that, just check theres aa earth with at the pump connector and 12v on the other). I dont think itll be the pump so i'll stop there with pump testing.

Assuming the pumps priming, now test for spark. Whip out a spark plug, reattach the ht lead and lay the plug on the rocker cover. Turn the engine over and watch for spark. You can check a plug thats powered by the other coilpack to be thorough.

And also for fuel, few ways to do it but i'd grab a test light or a multimeter and just probe across the 2 pins on the injector connector - test light should flash, a meter should show a pulse on DC volts. This proves the ecu is telling the injectors to fire, not that they are actually injecting - in most cases this is enough to go on. But you can also just crank the car over a lot and then quickly whip a spark plug out and see if its wet and smells of petrol or not.

So at this point you should know if fuel is at the rail, whether you have spark and whether you have fuel. Let us know the result.

Likely issues are crank sensor or twin relay (otherwise known as fuel pump relay but it fires the coilpacks too) for a car cranking and not even attempting to fire. But far from the only possible reasons. Hence checking for fuel and spark.

Does the engine management light behave as normal? Its the one that looks a bit like a hose pipe squirting water, it should come on for a moment with the key and then go out. Same for the immobiliser code light, should come on for few secs and then go off, if it stays on the immobiliser is armed and the car wont start.

Oh, and just noticed you are new here, so :wave: welcome to FF!