I have a shorting on my 98, 1.2 Punto. I have solved the problem temporarily by disconnecting the positive every time I stop. The problem is not the battery as when I reconnect the battery after 2-3 days it starts sweet as a nut. When I have found which circuit the fault/shorting is on, i.e. Lights, heating etc, by using a ammeter and removing the fuses one at a time, I just want to know how would I repair this? re-wire the loom the fault is on?

Also, I have got new battery terminal clamps but I need to remove the old clamps which have a pincer-like, which are tightened on with pliers, clamped on to the positive cable, What is the best way to remove these old clamps?

Thanks,
Allen

I doubt you have a shorting, it will be a draw.

Once you have found the circuit with the excessive draw (possibly radio circuit) come back and we'll point you in the right direction.

Cut the old terminals off.

Cheers

D

Are the old battery lead clamps so bad that they they need to be replaced? The only ones that have ever failed me are the old cap type made from lead which were complete crap OE fittings from the 1970s.

If you want a QD disconnect, better to fit a main isolator as used on race cars. Only snag is the clock and trip will go to zero every time you flick the switch.

WhiteSei said:

Are the old battery lead clamps so bad that they they need to be replaced? The only ones that have ever failed me are the old cap type made from lead which were complete crap OE fittings from the 1970s.

If you want a QD disconnect, better to fit a main isolator as used on race cars. Only snag is the clock and trip will go to zero every time you flick the switch.

Click to expand...

The reason I had to replace clamps was because of the amount of times I have had to take off my battery the clamps and bolts were becoming rounded.

SHORTING/DRAW on the Battery!

I have a shorting/draw on my battery which causes my car not to start after standing for just one day. I have replaced the alternator and battery since the problem started and still it drains. The only way to see if it was a draw was to disconnect the positive from the battery terminal and reconnect when I needed the car. The car starts first time when I reconnect it, that proves it is a draw surely?

I have just measured the current from negative to the earth with the terminals fully connected and on my Ammeter I set it to 200m and I get a reading of 0.8- 1.0! Is this enough to drain a battery in a day or two? Just to see if this could be the only problem.

After going through the fuses one by one I have found that the draw is on the wiring for the Cigarette lighter, Could I just take the fuse out from the cigarette lighter? Does anything else work off this fuse/loom? and also, IF I can't just take out the fuse, what would I need to do to repair this? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
Allen.

Re: SHORTING/DRAW on the Battery!

Theoretically, a drainage at 1A will fully discharge a 40AH battery in 40 hours. That means it would discharge sufficiently overnight such that it won't have enough left to turn over fast enough. A typical cause is a lamp that isn't turning off (a 12W lamp is 1.0amp, a 6W lamp is 0.5amp, etc.). Not sure about the Mk1 but on the Mk2 the fuse for the cigar lighter also feeds the radio, the courtesy light and the light in the boot. That last one is suspect!

red

Re: SHORTING/DRAW on the Battery!

Thanks,

Just if I can get away with just taking the fuse out if it only fuses the cigarette lighter I would take it out as I dont smoke, so no loss! But if it is the fuse for anything else that I actually need (courtesy light busted anyway and no boot light on mk1 I have!) Then I am a bit screwed! ha!

Allen

Re: SHORTING/DRAW on the Battery!

Could the "busted" courtesy light be causing the current leakage?

red

Re: SHORTING/DRAW on the Battery!

But mine is a MK1 and that's under the assumption that the courtesy light runs off the same loop? I haven't got an idea if it does. But the courtesy light has busted connectors in, Hence not completing the circuit. I tested the circuitry on the negative battery terminal and the earth from this neg terminal. The current wouldn't get to the negative terminal cos the circuits broken and the cigarette lighter still works, so actually now I have just explained that, they can't be on the same circuit? .... can they? :S

Re: SHORTING/DRAW on the Battery!

OK, had to go dig out the Mk1 schematics to check this out.

Fuse F10 (15A) feeds:

Courtesy light
Map reading light
Luggage compartment light
Clock
Central locking
Remote control
Cigar lighter
Radio
Anti-theft blinker


red

Re: SHORTING/DRAW on the Battery!

Stereo's are usually the suspect
Is it an aftermarket one?
If so - remove it for a night with the battery still connected
By Next morning if it still starts - its the stereo
You'll need to wire it to work off the Yellow Wire off the Ignition barrel (if mk1's have a yellow wire)

I'd Check the Boot light isn't staying on too

AllenLowe said:

The reason I had to replace clamps was because of the amount of times I have had to take off my battery the clamps and bolts were becoming rounded.

Click to expand...

I'd of just replaced them with a suitable Nut and Bolt

My Positive terminals nut was becoming round - it was lucky when i took it off
I just wacked another m6 (10mm) Nut on with a washer and works a treat

Ziggy

Did the OP find the source of his current draw?

Re: SHORTING/DRAW on the Battery!

Why do we have 2 current(!) threads on this one subject?

Re: SHORTING/DRAW on the Battery!

WhiteSei said:

Why do we have 2 current(!) threads on this one subject?

Click to expand...

no

WhiteSei said:

Did the OP find the source of his current draw?

Click to expand...

OP?

Also, how would I go about repairing this fault if it is not the stereo? I can try and see if it's the stereo, by just unplugging that and see if the current drops to 0.0 yeah?

Remove battery earth clamp and connect the ammeter between battery terminal and lead.

One by one pull the fuses and put back if no change. When a fuse causes the current to drop you have found the faulty circuit.

Tedious but simples.

As already said many times - first of all disconnect the stereo as its most likely the cause.

I think the stereo is the problem. I have just quickly unplugged it and checked the amps earthing which was previously 0.8-1A and it dropped to 0.0-0.1 with stereo disconnected. Over the weekend I am going to disconnect the stereo fully and reconnect the positive, keeping it connected. I will try and then start the car after standing for two days and see if she starts! If it is the stereo, would I just need to get a new stereo if this is a problem with the stereo?

Thanks everyone!

Remind us what Rallycinq said in post #2

To get back to you guys and you would point me in the right direction!