Technical Body computer & Engine ECU compatibility / code issues

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Technical Body computer & Engine ECU compatibility / code issues

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This is a continuation of another thread, which has got a bit complicated and diverged from it's heading, so for clarity I'm starting afresh.

https://www.fiatforum.com/punto/290...de-warning-light.html?highlight=body+computer

2001 Punto HGT wont start. It may have been spiked by the last owner. She took it to a dealer, who was unable to get a code from the engine ECU. Following their advice, I ordered a new one (on eBay for less than half the RRP) and it arrived today, but I'm worried about fitting it.

When I fit it, I'm told it will code itself into the body computer, and then be useless for any other vehicle. But what if the spike also damaged the body computer? The code warning light comes on with the ignition, which is making me think the body computer could also be damaged.

If necessary, would I have any problems replacing the body computer, after installing the new engine ECU? Would a new body computer have compatibility issues with the new engine ECU?

I read on a Alfa forum that body computers can only be bought from the dealer for the full price because they are linked to the vehicle VIN number. Hope that's not the case with Fiats. Can anyone confirm?
 
The guy who sold me the engine ECU said it was fine - if I need a new body computer as well, it would be compatible with the new engine ECU.

I fitted the new engine ECU and now

1) I can get a diagnostic read-out from it
2) The engine light comes on with the CODE light, as expected (before only the code light came on.)
3) There's a brief whir which comes on with the ignition, which there was wasn't before. I assume that's the fuel pump priming.

I went to Fiat and got the key code (£15), but 'typing' it in using the emergency start method doesn't work. After the fifth digit, it just keeps flashing as if there's supposed to be another number. I think it is the right code because after it has been entered there's a little electric noise from the engine bay - sounds a bit like a door lock but it doesn't come from the door. When I deliberately get the code wrong, it doesn't make the noise. I've checked about six times to make sure I'm doing it right.

What's going on?! :bang: If the body computer was faulty, wouldn't it give a fault code? The only fault code i'm getting is something to do with an emissions valve, so I don't think it's relevant.
 
https://www.fiatforum.com/punto/290...lso-weird-code-warning-light-6.html?p=2942451


you've spent £500 on the car £250 on a new ECU + money on a fault code reader and you still have a problem?
both S and B and I suggested that the problem would be most probably fixed with £100 worth of bits off ebay. but you didn't listen to either of us.

you can buy a working taxed and MOT HGT from 2000-2002 with similar mileage for under £1000 (have actually seen a very nice one on ebay for £780) so you need to decide if its worth keep spending money on, do you actually plan on keeping it or was this a car to trade and make money on? i think the latter is quickly disappearing from sight.

you might still have to take the hit and take it into Yarmouth Desira to find out now what is going on, your theory of "Spiked" ECU would mean that multiple control units would most likely have been damaged so I would expect the spending to continue.
 
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Granted there's a cheap one going on eBay at the moment. But take a closer look at that grubby, torn interior. Most good 2001 Puntos at the moment are going for over £1000, so I'm not screwed yet. I've already stated my motivations for not replacing everything. £100 would have got me a whole load of second hand bits, already 10 years old, which could pack up at any minute - they're so unreliable - and I haven't got time to replace all that once, let alone twice.

For gods sake stop all this 'I told you so', and stop saying I didn't listen! Just cos I'm taking someone else's advice, not your own. The reason I'm on this forum is to listen to advice.



Anyway... sorry about that... the car is now giving a fault code, U1600. Can anyone specify whether this means an immobiliser fault, an antenna fault, or a key fault.
 
The guy who sold me the engine ECU said it was fine - if I need a new body computer as well, it would be compatible with the new engine ECU.

I fitted the new engine ECU and now

1) I can get a diagnostic read-out from it
2) The engine light comes on with the CODE light, as expected (before only the code light came on.)
3) There's a brief whir which comes on with the ignition, which there was wasn't before. I assume that's the fuel pump priming.

I went to Fiat and got the key code (£15), but 'typing' it in using the emergency start method doesn't work. After the fifth digit, it just keeps flashing as if there's supposed to be another number. I think it is the right code because after it has been entered there's a little electric noise from the engine bay - sounds a bit like a door lock but it doesn't come from the door. When I deliberately get the code wrong, it doesn't make the noise. I've checked about six times to make sure I'm doing it right.

What's going on?! :bang: If the body computer was faulty, wouldn't it give a fault code? The only fault code i'm getting is something to do with an emissions valve, so I don't think it's relevant.

Is it flashing at the normal slow rate, or rapidly for 4 secs as per the instructions for the procedure (meaning the code is correct)?

Emergency Start-up.JPG
 
Is it flashing at the normal slow rate, or rapidly for 4 secs as per the instructions for the procedure (meaning the code is correct)?

View attachment 98585

No, it just flashes at the normal rate. I've watched a video of it being done on eBay, so I know what should happen. That electronic click which I though was consistent after the fifth digit, isn't any more. Sometimes it happens, sometimes it doesn't. But I think the engine light comes on for a little bit longer to confirm the fifth digit, than it does to confirm the other four.

Is the antenna a little plastic ring around the key end of the ignition barrel, with a small electrical connection? Whatever it is, i've tested the connection, plus the two plugs at the other end of the ignition barrel. No change.
 
The antenna is not important during the ES procedure, the only things needed are the accelerator pedal potentiometer and engine ECU.

The fact that the procedure is now able to be performed, says the ECU being damaged was the right call.
The fact that the lamp is responding to the pedal presses, says the pedal is ok.

Only thing left is if you're 100% entering the code correctly. If it were wrong, the EOBD lamp would stay on, so the only thing I can think of for it to appear to look for a sixth digit, is if you're mistakenly not entering the first.

If you put in 6 wrong digits, say, 111111, what happens?
 
The antenna is not important during the ES procedure, the only things needed are the accelerator pedal potentiometer and engine ECU.

The fact that the procedure is now able to be performed, says the ECU being damaged was the right call.
The fact that the lamp is responding to the pedal presses, says the pedal is ok.

Only thing left is if you're 100% entering the code correctly. If it were wrong, the EOBD lamp would stay on, so the only thing I can think of for it to appear to look for a sixth digit, is if you're mistakenly not entering the first.

If you put in 6 wrong digits, say, 111111, what happens?

Just tried inputting six 1s, but the same thing - it just keeps flashing as normal. And the flash to confirm the fifth digit is definitely longer than the other four, so i don't think there's a problem there. I'm as certain as i can be that i'm following the instructions properly.

Presumably there's some significance in the U1600 fault code?
 
Odd. If you crank it over, does anything try to happen?

U1600 is the "key not recognised" code, which you'll have because it's not coded-into the BC.

Just had a thought- because the Engine ECU is virgin, and the keys haven't been coded into the BC and therefore nothing sent to the Engine ECU, I wonder if it can't accept the code properly as there's been nothing written to it's memory?

TBH, I've never had to attempt the ES procedure with a virgin engine ECU (no-one has AFAIK), so this is new territory. It's possible the only way to get this correct is to have the keys coded-in properly.
 
Odd. If you crank it over, does anything try to happen?

U1600 is the "key not recognised" code, which you'll have because it's not coded-into the BC.

Just had a thought- because the Engine ECU is virgin, and the keys haven't been coded into the BC and therefore nothing sent to the Engine ECU, I wonder if it can't accept the code properly as there's been nothing written to it's memory?

I see... i think... why wouldn't the keys have been coded into the BC previously?

[/QUOTE] TBH, I've never had to attempt the ES procedure with a virgin engine ECU (no-one has AFAIK), so this is new territory. It's possible the only way to get this correct is to have the keys coded-in properly.[/QUOTE]

Sounds like you might be right. What would having the keys coded-in involve? A dealer presumably? Not expensive i hope...
 
Once you've fitted a virgin ecu it will code itself. Just switch ignition on for a few seconds.

The keys aren't programmed into the ecu, the ecu is just linked to the body computer, the keys are stored in the body computer.
 
Also you could do with all error code being removed, this can interfer with programming in keys not sure if it will affect the self-recoding but sort a shot
 
Granted there's a cheap one going on eBay at the moment. But take a closer look at that grubby, torn interior. Most good 2001 Puntos at the moment are going for over £1000, so I'm not screwed yet. I've already stated my motivations for not replacing everything. £100 would have got me a whole load of second hand bits, already 10 years old, which could pack up at any minute - they're so unreliable - and I haven't got time to replace all that once, let alone twice.

For gods sake stop all this 'I told you so', and stop saying I didn't listen! Just cos I'm taking someone else's advice, not your own. The reason I'm on this forum is to listen to advice.

As things stand your hgt isn't exactly A1 condition so i don't think you're in any position currently to claim yours is worth more than one that actually works. that said lets actually explore why your car still won't work.

to understand this you need to appreciate how the Can-Bus Network actually functions, its quite backwards in networking terms the best way to describe it is as a bunch of idiots sitting in an office and the only way they communicate with each other is via email.

the BSI is the boss it receives the work and is responsible for everything in the office. all other systems are the employees. it does this by sending out a mass email to everyone via the network, first thing in the morning he sends an email to everyone to see if everything is ok if no reply then assumes no problems. so with respect to can-bus you put your key in the ignition and the BSI reads the code and decides if it matches what it holds in memory it dumps a message on the can-bus to check all other systems are ok if yes its happy and if the code matchs it will dump the raw data for the code onto can-bus for any other system that wants it. the Engine ECU wants the code so it picks it up checks it against its own memory and if happy feeds that back to the bsi (boss) the immobaliser is deactivated and you can start the car and the BSI is happy to turn off the Code light.

while driving the systems each dump data onto the Can-bus system as and when it is available, so the Engine temp is fed on by the engine ECU, which is picked up by the bsi so it can decide to turn the engine bay fan on or not, if you have climate control fitted that is also reading the engine temp off the can-bus.
all of the modules that make up the system dump the data onto the can-bus as the bandwidth becomes available, not like home computer networking where packages are transfered via hand shaking and package checking etc

so what has been happening with your car is this, THE KEYS ARE NOT CODED (i think this may have been pointed out before?) this means that the BSI is not happy with the code so has immobilised the engine and as such is not putting that info onto the Can-bus system. secondly the ECU has clearly had a problem which your new part may or may not have fixed, however without the code data from the BSI it doesn't know what to do so will just sit there. As it is a 'virgin' ecu it has no code so when you put in the emergency start up code the BSI might be happy being the original unit but the new ECU is sitting there not knowing if it is right or not. the car remains immobalised. both units need to have the code.

when the car is built the keys BSI, engine ECU etc are all coded together the BSI may well code the engine ECU, but not if it is receiving dodgy info, from the BSI. otherwise joe car thief would pop the bonnet swap the ecu for one he had the coded keys for and drive away. the BSI keeps the car immobalised in this situation.

so what do you do to fix the problem? well you need most probably a new BSI because its foolish to believe that the engine ecu became damaged without causing problems in the more delicate BSI. however if you are extreemly lucky you might have gotten away without any damage. what ever the case you still need to chuck the car on a low loader tow it into the dealer and have them look at re-coding your keys for which they will most likely charge you a fortune. as it 2x keys with 2x remotes. that is absolute best case scenario and there is no longer anything you can do to avoid taking it to the dealer.

what you then have to hope is there are no other problems with the BSI once it is up and running for instance the remote locking being down to a faulty unit and not uncoded remote. if it is the BSI i believe you are looking at about £500+ labour ?vat once that is sorted you can then start to tackle the the state the is the engine bay.

Knowing what Desira are like i would guess that they may not be happy with your cheap ebay Engine ECU and they would suggest a new BSI, this could land you with a repair estimate of that £1,000 i mentioned in the other thread they might also recommend new keys to complete the job, this was done to the company i used to work for on a number of occasions for cars that just had lost keys.

so in conclusion the reason we suggested 10 year old parts is because they would save you a considerable amount of money, granted they are old but given the motorways of europe are not littered with the carcasses of fallen puntos all with smoking BSIs it is unreasonable to assume this is some commonly, highly unreliable part, electronics have no moving parts and are all made in the same factories so they are mostly very reliable its the things they control that kill them.
with out knowing what caused the original problem with your car however you are seriously risking turning your car immediately into a giant paperweight the minute you get the engine running, albeit maybe very briefly.

this isn't a 'we told you so' its a 'we told you' again and again and again but you still continue to believe that the ECU and BSI can some how be reasoned with, you really can't they only do Logic and work only how they were programed to work, theory's on 'maybe this isn't happy or you need to tweak this and tickle that' really is not going to fix your car
 
That's massively helpful Andy, thanks for explaining it all. I understand the problem a lot better now. Er... ****... i really hope i haven't got to go through all that faff of replacing everything. I hate replacing door locks.

Sherlock Holmes would say that the remote locking was working when the car was last running, as there are no key marks around the locks, which would have suggested it had been opened with the key.

Desira have quoted me £185 for a new BSI and £45 to recode. Hmm...

Just to clarify, i know my car isn't worth over £1k at the moment - i meant that it should be when / if it's running.
 
tow it into the dealer and have them look at re-coding your keys for which they will most likely charge you a fortune. as it 2x keys with 2x remotes.

LMAO, it doesn't matter how many keys/remotes you have to be coded in, it'll be the same cost as coding in one (typically an hour's labour).

if it is the BSI i believe you are looking at about £500+ labour ?

Knowing what Desira are like i would guess that they may not be happy with your cheap ebay Engine ECU and they would suggest a new BSI, this could land you with a repair estimate of that £1,000 i mentioned in the other thread they might also recommend new keys to complete the job, this was done to the company i used to work for on a number of occasions for cars that just had lost keys.

I really don't know where you get you prices from? Even if it were the BC that was faulty too, you wouldn't need to replace the keys and locks, not with the CODE 2 system. When you order a new BC to the vehicle's chassis number, it comes pre-coded to the vehicle- same as if you lost all the keys, all you'd need to do is order new ones, they'll come pre-cut to the locks and part-coded to the BC.

You're only faced with an almighty bill if you were to loose all keys on an older CODE 1 vehicle (mk1 Punto, for instance). In that case the only route is a complete lockset, keys, Code ECU, and the labour to swap everything.

Desira have quoted me £185 for a new BSI and £45 to recode. Hmm...

If that's all inclusive and fitted, it's a billy bargain.

Personally, seeing as they've been helpful so far supplying past invoice info and such, I'd see if they're happy to attempt key coding with your original BC still fitted first (one of the Tech's could pop out and try this while you're booking the car in- would only take a few minutes to see if it communicates or not).

If it works- you've only had to pay £45 to code the keys in (which we all agreed was likely to be necessary). If it doesn't, then they can order the BC and try again. It'll take a few days for the BC to arrive, but that won't bother them- they'll be glad of the work. (y)
 
You probably wont need the keys coding!

Get the error codes cleared, then see if any come back.

Dont forget the dash will flash with a new ecu untill you do the phonic wheel learning procedure, this wont stop the car from running though.
 
[/QUOTE] If that's all inclusive and fitted, it's a billy bargain. [/QUOTE]

Inclusive of VAT. Forgot to ask if it includes fitting, but i expect it does (quite quick isn't it?)

[/QUOTE] Personally, seeing as they've been helpful so far supplying past invoice info and such, I'd see if they're happy to attempt key coding with your original BC still fitted first (one of the Tech's could pop out and try this while you're booking the car in- would only take a few minutes to see if it communicates or not). [/QUOTE]

I'll ask them in the morning, but i expect they'd want me to take the vehicle to them. As there are no other apparent faults on the car yet *touch wood* i'm hoping the BSI is ok.

Just to clarify - sorry, i know this is dumb - is the body computer and the BSI the same thing?
 
You probably wont need the keys coding!

Get the error codes cleared, then see if any come back.

Dont forget the dash will flash with a new ecu untill you do the phonic wheel learning procedure, this wont stop the car from running though.

I've cleared the codes using a U480 Memoscan tool, but U1600 (key not recognised) comes back.

What is the 'phonic wheel learning procedure'?
 
bsi = body computer

You wont need the procedure till the cars runs
 
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