Technical Engine dies and loses ECU connection (Punto mk2, 2004, 1.2 8V)
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Technical Engine dies and loses ECU connection (Punto mk2, 2004, 1.2 8V)
Exactly
! To get such multiple pin chip off you use hot air soldering.The first BCM module didn't arrive, so I had to buy another. I swapped the EEPROM chip, which was very easy, and installed it on the car. However, that got me back to the starting point. The car starts again and appears to work ok, but dies after a while as usual. I suspect that the old BCM module had cracked solder joints (nothing visible though), and possibly other issues too, which got worse when I removed the module. I was very careful with force and ESD, so not sure what happened. Anyways, maybe this new module solves random door locking issues and other funny things.
I think that the one last thing I'll try is to replace the ECU. Used virginized ECUs are not extremely expensive, so I'll probably buy one of those. If that doesn't help, I probably won't invest more time or money into this car.
I think that the one last thing I'll try is to replace the ECU. Used virginized ECUs are not extremely expensive, so I'll probably buy one of those. If that doesn't help, I probably won't invest more time or money into this car.
nikbelarus
New member
Hello, sorry for my English, but I have to look for a solution to my problem here. I won't create a new thread because I think I have a similar problem. I’ll tell you the full sequence of my faults so that you have an idea. 1) Recently my car began to run poorly, only 2-3 cylinders were working, sometimes 4 were connected, the engine thrust was variable. I replaced the wires and coils, checked the errors using OBD2, and discovered an error in the power supply to the injector in the first cylinder. Using a multimeter, I measured the electrical resistance of the injectors; in the first cylinder the injector resistance was 6 ohms, in the others it was 16. I replaced the injector with an identical one, but a working one, and the engine started working as it should. I put the old wires and coils back in place because they weren't the problem. But after that, another problem appeared, which I will talk about later. 2) The engine runs smoothly when cold, there are no problems with starting. I can easily move short distances without problems (5-10 kilometers). If the car is loaded with people (I press the gas harder), or I'm moving uphill, the rpm arrow drops sharply down, the car pulls back and suddenly releases. Sometimes the engine may simply stall. After the engine stalls, it does not start, the starter works but no spark/fuel is supplied. I just need to wait a few minutes and I can safely move on. If you get out of the car and pull on the throttle cable, you can cause the ECU control relay to click. This is immediately followed by a decrease in engine speed. As far as I understand, when you press the gas, sometimes the ECU sends some kind of signal and the ECU relay opens. I do not know what to do. OBD diagnostics showed error P0230, but the fuel pump is working properly and its connectors are clean. I made some videos:
- Car in motion
- relay clicking
- idling after overload
- Car in motion
- relay clicking
- idling after overload
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Did you ever get it fixed?????????????????
This looks like a faulty ECU. These are causing trouble like ignition problems. Mine is working fine when the engine is cold, but it won't start when the engine is warm. Get a new or used or repaird ECU. Possibly with HW600+ as these are improved like IAW59/HW603. My old one is IAW5AF.P4/HW303 so I'll source a newer one with a higher HW version
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