Not happy with these issues, been having them for a while. The car does run with the light on without limp mode etc, just a bit rougher. Simply put no matter what I do there is no active/passive regen taking place.

Latest issue, after a force regen to get it through the MOT, the DPF light came on during commute home late at night, so decided to immediately take it onto the motorway. Gave it a 25-30 min run at 30000rpm in 4th which, bluntly, did nothing. The light is still on.

- EGR valve has been cleaned
- My usual commute is 30 mins with plenty of that over 40mph
- Forced Regen does work

Previous motorway runs at high rpm have been with a full tank and with plenty of life left on the oil degradation counter. This has decreased since, but the fact it didn't work previously.

Pulling my hair out and certainly considering either a German replacement (any good?) or deleting if there's no solution.

Cheers,

Before replacing anything, it would be a good idea to plug in a diagnostic program.

Light on would usually mean it needs a regen, and would only normally be seen if the journeys are too short for an automatic regen to occur. If after a forced regen you still have problems, then diagnosis is needed.

A light on does not automatically mean a dead DPF. It just means that the message from the sensor is not a good one. Could be a dying sensor, air leaks, or blockages elsewhere.

MultiECUscan (MES) is the best diagnostic for the Fiats. A search will bring up threads describing what it is and how to obtain and use it. Say where you are, there may be someone nearby able to help.

Thanks for the reply, I do have MES myself which is how I get it to apply the Force Regens. There are no fault codes but other than that I wouldn't know how to diagnose any specific sensor problem etc.

Would I be looking at setting it up before a long run to log a graph of differential pressure/egr position -- Anything else?

I try to keep away from diesels, fine for vans, buses and trucks, but just wrong for cars.

When the light comes on, I would expect MES to be able to report something. Might need to carry it with you, and plug in when the light is on, or at home if you can get home with the light still on. Then see what it says.

Might be an idea to scan the readings availabel regarding the DPF, see what it reads when cold, and hot, when running normally. Then would have a base to compare.

Also check all pipes/hoses for integrity, when cold of course, they'll get rather hot once running.

It's certainly a pain, I would expect it to burn off with the commute I do so that's why I'm turning to thoughts of replacement.. be that a sensor or the whole thing etc. The clock is at 135k.

The light is permanently on unless I force regen, then it comes back on within 200 miles. When the light is on there are no fault codes when plugged in MES.

Think what I need is somebody to do a comparison with regarding the pressure sensor/egr opening/regen percentage completed, just to see what is letting it down.

Perhaps it helps if I mention that Start/Stop doesn't seem to work at any time (be that with the light on/off, engine upto temp)

Disconect the pipes from the EGR sensor, I would expect one of two things to happen, with the EGR light would go away, or it would give you an EGR pressure warning if the egr light remains then it may meant that the sensor is damaged.

The sensor is very errr sensitive so if you over pressure them they break. There is no warning the sensor is broken it just thinks the egr is blocked because the sensor sticks at high pressure