Hi.
I've had my panda mj for nearly 11 years, and I don't like spending money on it--- and seldom do.
About 3 or 4 years ago, the boot lock started playing up, I think because the mechanism wouldn't activate the microswitch. So since then, I've had the switch hanging just outside, and its very easy to operate, once you are used to it. Its been no problem until today, when for some reason, it won't stay locked. At first I thought that it was a fault with the fob, but when I use the plain key, to turn on the ignition, you hear the solenoid unlock the boot, then, 1 second later, it makes a sort of whooshing sound.
Having searched the forum, everybody seems to think that any problem with the boot is due to a faulty microswitch, but I don't think that this is the case here, because, if you press the microswitch, it does exactly the same thing.

If you switch the ignition on and off a number of times, eventually, it fails to operate the relay, and then, even if you switch the ignition on and off again, the relay doesn't operate. Until you get out, and close the boot.... Then it unlocks again, as soon as you turn the ignition key.
I've checked for engine codes, nothing relevant.

I'm foxed, can anybody help? I'm loathe to take it to a dealer. I've not seen them since I bought a £2 part 4 years ago!

Remove relay, use the key in the boot door.. then it cant do it..

It is the microswitch at fault. Mine did that within the first couple of years of ownership and it was replaced under warranty then.

TobiasBB said:

Remove relay, use the key in the boot door.. then it cant do it..

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As an economy measure, that's a good idea, thank you.

However after 11 years, I've got so used to opening it using the microswitch, that I think it will drive me mad having to use the key every time! I've got to the age when I don't do 'change' very well.

Wee Smurf said:

It is the microswitch at fault. Mine did that within the first couple of years of ownership and it was replaced under warranty then.

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Thank you, you are probably right, but why do you think it is behaving in this way?
I know that its all controlled electronically, but surely a micro switch is either On, or Off. And this one patently does 2 different things, one when it is being pressed, and the other when not being pressed.
Do you think that any micro switch will do to replace it? And can I just cut it off, and solder another one in?

gilt279 said:

As an economy measure, that's a good idea, thank you.

However after 11 years, I've got so used to opening it using the microswitch, that I think it will drive me mad having to use the key every time! I've got to the age when I don't do 'change' very well.

Click to expand...

My 1,2 ciao (I believe its called) doesnt have any remotes, key in the boot or drivers door, annoying for the first little while then you get used to it... but the alternative is to throw money at the issue... which you dislike... which is worse?

If you're going to fit a replacement switch - even though you obviously don't want to spend money on the car - then buying the oem switch is the simplest way to go.

It's an unfortunate fact that, however cheap a car is to run, it does not run forever without trouble!

The problem is that the microswitch is an awkward thing to remove from the handle. I think that's why they would usually change the handle rather than try to just change the microswitch.

I could do with a new one again myself. My car is 11.5 years too and I have to prioritise what I'm spending on it. Just had to replace front discs and pads, rear shoes and handbrake cable, get a leak in the gearbox sorted and an oil-leak sorted a couple of weeks ago. Will need new steering rack some time prior to MoT (in May) as well, so the niceties of a boot lock that functions the way Fiat intended have gone out the window for the time being.

I suppose that you expect these things with age. Mine is sitting at 121212 and I feel like over the last few years that I have been building a new car with all the bits that I've replaced...

More info!
My wife went out today, and tells me that the relay also triggered when the headlights were switched on. I just checked, and it also triggers sometimes when the indicators are first switched on. Sounds like it may be something to do with a voltage drop?

That sounds more like a dodgy earth connection or a split in the wires to the tailgate than the microswitch. Anything odd happening with rear lights or wiper?

irc said:

That sounds more like a dodgy earth connection or a split in the wires to the tailgate than the microswitch. Anything odd happening with rear lights or wiper?

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Not that I've noticed. where is the earth connection to the boot lid?

Had a simmilar problem with my Stilo MW. emporary fix was cleaning inside the handle/switch with electrical contactcleaner.

gr J

Watch the rear lights while someone works the switches. An earth fault will cause other bulbs to glow (such as brake lights glowing dimly) when indicators are on.

gilt279 said:

Not that I've noticed. where is the earth connection to the boot lid?

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I think the tailgate wiring earths use the same one as the left rear lamp. Found behind the trim inside the boot on the left, I think. With trim removed, follow wiring from lamp. Saw mine earlier in the year while doing another job, so didn't pay enough attention.

DaveMcT said:

Watch the rear lights while someone works the switches. An earth fault will cause other bulbs to glow (such as brake lights glowing dimly) when indicators are on.

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Thank you, no bulbs glowing........

A3jeroen said:

Had a simmilar problem with my Stilo MW. emporary fix was cleaning inside the handle/switch with electrical contactcleaner.

gr J

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OK, those of you that take sugar in your tea are to blame.
It's sugar beet harvesting season here in rural Norfolk, and our local roads are filthy.... and so is my car.

I removed the switch-handle unit, and gave it a brush wash, Then put the meter across the switch terminals, and pressed the microswitch. The needle swung across satisfactorily,,,,, I tried it a few more times, and noticed that often, it would read 4 ohms, not 0.
It has been wedged in the gap between the handle moving parts, for the last 3 or 4 years, so I prised it out, and it was filthy, and wet behind. Once this was cleaned, it was reliably at 0 ohms. I don't really understand why cleaning the outside should have this effect.

Anyhow, it now seems to be working OK.

Knowing what I do now, I reckon that if I had been using my pressure washer, instead of buckets, and brush, to wash my car, the fault would probably not have occurred in the first place!

So wee smurf was sort of right all along, It was the microswitch, though just because the back of it was dirty.
.........unless of course, it goes wrong again in the next week or so.

Anyhow, thank you all for your valued advice.

And Wee Smurf, if your unit is like mine, it probably isn't the actual microswitch which is faulty, but the bit of plastic which pushes it that is worn If you prise the switch out, and wedge it so that you can press it from the outside, I bet it would work, and you soon get used to finding that tiny button.....

gilt279 said:

I removed the switch-handle unit, and gave it a brush wash, Then put the meter across the switch terminals, and pressed the microswitch. The needle swung across satisfactorily,,,,, I tried it a few more times, and noticed that often, it would read 4 ohms, not 0.
It has been wedged in the gap between the handle moving parts, for the last 3 or 4 years, so I prised it out, and it was filthy, and wet behind. Once this was cleaned, it was reliably at 0 ohms. I don't really understand why cleaning the outside should have this effect.

Click to expand...

A microswitch action moves over a very small distance (hence the name). If the controlling button is pressing down it has to only be a fraction of a mm low and the switch will trip or in your case partially trip.

gilt279 said:

And Wee Smurf, if your unit is like mine, it probably isn't the actual microswitch which is faulty, but the bit of plastic which pushes it that is worn If you prise the switch out, and wedge it so that you can press it from the outside, I bet it would work, and you soon get used to finding that tiny button.....

Click to expand...

Yes that's exactly what I do with mine

So, thank you everyone for your help. Its sorted. I'm blaming those of you who take sugar in your tea.... Its sugar-beet season here in rural Norfolk= Mud.

I took the switch off, and brushed it clean, then tested the microswitch, which I've had wedged in the gap for several years. The meter went up and down, as you might expect, then I noticed that it was only going to 4 ohms, not 0.
I pulled it out, and it was very muddy behind it. Once cleaned, for some reason it dropped to 0, and when reinstalled, its working fine!

So wee smurf was right!
The simple solution would have been to pressure wash, instead of bucket & brush washing, as I have been doing.
Having the microswitch wedged so that I can press it directly from outside, has worked pretty well for years!
Thanks again everyone.

Sugar beet in EU is a big issue. It needs some nasty pesticides and directly led to the collapse of the Caribbean sugar industries.