Technical Panda 100HP - Geometry Information

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Technical Panda 100HP - Geometry Information

S-X-I

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Fiat Panda 100HP Geometry Information


Front Wheel Toe-In


Toe-In (mm) -1 +/- 1


Rear Wheel Toe-In

Toe-In (mm) 3 +/- 3


Front Wheel Camber


Camber (Degrees) -1 +/- 30'


Rear Wheel Camber

Camber (Degrees) -42' +/- 30'
 
Thanks for posting .Every HP owner will probably need these figures at some stage ...where did you get it?Fortunately my 'new' 2007 red 11k miles seems to be running fairly 'straight' for now.This would be a worthwhile 'Sticky'.
 
Is it really that vague?

I mean there is a fair old difference between having 1mm of toe-in and 1mm of toe-out. It really isn't hard to set the toe up pretty acurately with a little TLC. When I used to set toe angles up on track and race cars I'd just get it spot on to the millimetre. You want 3mm toe-in on the rear, not a problem. So I can't see the need for so much variance, wish they'd just give optimum settings.

So think of the diference with up to 6mm allowed overall between one end of the scale and the other, but I guess you can't adjust the rear, hence so much variance.

In saying all that, I'd try parallel on the front (will help turn-in over toe-in) and say 2mm of toe-in on the rear, though it's tempting to go a little less, just to see.
 
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Thanks for the info above, my 2010 Panda 1.3MJ went for its first 12,000 service last week, all was OK, except that I was told that the Front tyres (12,319 miles from new and never thraped), were scrubbed on the inside shoulders, the nearside more than the offside, but still 'legal' with 3.5mm tread. I was offered a new N/S tyre to 'fix' the problem. £46.00p. The rear tyres are OK with even wear to both. I raised the fact of steering geometry being a 'known fault' on Pandas, but the dealership denied any knowledge of it.
I asked for a steering geometry check, but they said it was only appropriate if 2 new front tyres were fitted. £££.
I am contemplating changing the fronts to the rear for the time being. Opinions welcome on this.
I will then get the geometry checked when I have the tyres changed.
So, can anyone provide a table of steering geometry values for the MJ as per the one above for 100hp?
 
This appears to be a very common problem on Pandas generally - you're not alone.

I am contemplating changing the fronts to the rear for the time being. Opinions welcome on this.

My opinion is that this is the worst thing you could possibly do. Unless you find & fix the cause, all you'll end up with is 4 prematurely worn tyres instead of the 2 you have at present. In any case, you want to keep your best tyres on the rear for safety reasons.

I'm facing exactly the same issue on my 9000 mile Panda 1.2, and when I checked the front tracking I found it was about 2mm toe-out, so well out of spec. The car's never been kerbed or driven hard, so I've every reason to suppose it was like that when the car was supplied new.

For now, I've reset it to track dead parallel & I'm keeping a close watch on the situation.

If you're able to check the tracking yourself, do so. Otherwise I'd suggest you take it to somewhere you believe will do the job properly & get the front wheel alignment checked, and if necessary adjusted, as soon as practicable.

If you do either of these things, I'd be very grateful if you'd post the current settings before any adjustments have been made.
 
I'm facing exactly the same issue on my 9000 mile Panda 1.2, and when I checked the front tracking I found it was about 2mm toe-out, so well out of spec. The car's never been kerbed or driven hard, so I've every reason to suppose it was like that when the car was supplied new.

How's your 500 doing in terms of tyre wear? Other than wearing the front left the most and the right rear the least as you'd expect, my 500 is wearing its tyres well and all the tyres are wearing evenly across each tyre and rotating the tyres once a year means that no one tyre should need replacing before any of the other tyres. I reckon it'll probably get through its MOT on the factory fit tyres.
 
J-R-K, Thanks for the advice, I will leave the wheels/tyres in situ, and speak to my local Tyre fitters about wheel/steering alignment.
 
This is very interesting, I run a Panda 100HP which is covering a very high mileage, 24,000 in the last year, overall I am very happy with it, its a 2010 car, supplied by Ancaster Wellling. I recently had to have two new front tyres, due to excessive wearing on the inside shoulders, below legal levels, I also needed a new set of pads and discs all round and the suspension top mounts replacing, now obviously there is no connection to the brake wear but I am wondering about the top mounts and if they could be contributing to the issue?
 
Our 1.2 Dynamic tracks fine though it also wears the front tyre inside shoulders.

The 100HP did the same thing only with wider tyres it was more pronounced. It needed new track control arms as the bushes were failing so I was hopeful for a cure. That job was done and the tracking corrected. It now pulls quite badly to the left. Previously, it was just a white line following issue (tramlining).

I've had the tracking checked and it's all as should be. All four are at zero degrees. I adjusted the front tracking to to give more toe-in. This reduced the pull and improved the tread temperature difference across both tyre widths, but its still not right. As said, the 1.2 tracks dead straight so it must be fixable.

My next move is to see if the back axle alignment can be adjusted. The chassis bolts are not dowelled into so it might be possible to loosen the mounts, nudge the left side backwards and the right side forwards then retighten the bolts. Theory being that its rear steering itself.

If that wont work, I'll try some shims under the rear stub axles. Easy enough to try and remove if they dont have the required effect.
 
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