Punto (Mk1) Removing / Refitting / Checking Rear Shock Absorber

basic list needed

1x Trolley jack*
2x Axle Stands*
1x 18mm Socket* or 18mm Spanner#
1x 15mm Socket* or 15mm Spanner#
1x Suitable Ratchet for both sockets*
1x Wheel bolt remover (tyre iron)
1x Torque Wrench*


Now that's the basic you need if everything was like showroom fresh - i can tell you now these items below will help you lots
1x Heat Source IE blow torch* or oxy acetylene torch
1x Penetrating Fluid
1x Wire Brush or Wire Wheel/Brush Attachment*
1x Breaker Bar*
1x Impact Gun Setup


* denotes what i used to help me
# denote the size that was fitted to my car, it may vary upon previous work done and different versions

Put the car into gear - as the rear is going up - chock the front wheels if you wish
jack the car up, i used the rear beam in the middle and stuck my axle stands on the rear beam too

Remove the wheels and place them somewhere safe

Ensure the car is safe and wont move, as you will be putting force into this removal, especially if any bolts are seized, remembering your safety comes first

2 bolts that hold the rear shocks in place
Top

Bottom


The top bolts never have been a problem for me really, but either way
Removing the top bolt with a snug fitting socket/spanner

The bottom bolts vary, my 100k mk2 punto caused me hell, and the bolts were proper tight and stuck, refusing to budge and ended up snapping them
Mk mk2b 60k was a doddle to remove once cracked

The Bottom bushing can be a little stuck, a swift wiggle tug and mine pop out with ease

A spray with some penetrating fluid can help removal but this requires at least 5mins to work, so be prepared to wait, if you wish you can pre-treat the 2 bolts without removing or jacking up the car

I personally prefer to use heat, making a nut expand
Mixing oil which is flammable with flames is just asking for trouble! so i advise mixing the 2 together. If you do so, take care, wear the correct protection.

Wire brush - any crud, rust, grime, get rid of it, a rusty bolt is slightly larger and does put up a fight if forced through a nut, so removing as much as possible will really help

If a bolt is coming out - but really resistant, try this
Loosen - tighten - loosen - tighten, spray with fluid - and repeat
By working it back and forth, the threads will clean up, the oil will help clean and lubcricate it.
Forcing a seized nut or bolt very quickly becomes hot to the touch due to friction so be aware, and take your time

Congratulations on getting this far - its all easy picking from here
Dont worry your car wont fall down unless you dislodged the spring

The damper unit is designed to restrict the movement of the spring - reduce the number of oscillations your get when a spring is put under a load

So first of all inspect the shock absorber
Any Rust - Remove it - seal it up

Anys leak, is it misting or leaking fluid? if in doubt seek professional advice

The bushings, any heavy deep cracks allowing slop resulting in the bushings doing more work then the damper?
I refitted mine with some cracking, as the bushing was still serviceable

The movement of the shock absorber is critical
if the back end was very bouncy - the shock absorber is to blame
if the back end was rock solid, the culprit is most likely a seized shock

So complete 2 to 3 full sweeps of the shocks movement
There should be resistance similar on both motions (compress and expand)
If you can compress really easily and cant expand as easily, the valves inside have reached the end of there life and replacements would be on the table
Its the same if expanding is easier the compressing - replacements would be needed

If the shock Wont budge, its seized, i personally would just replace

If the MOT man says its a failure - replace it

If there is excessive leaks - replace

If the body is corroded and Moist looking from a leak - replace it

If the bushing is sloppy - Replace it, i don't think they can be replaced, but don't hold me to this

Refitting is straight forward
I like to Clean my bolts and nuts up from any rust with a wire wheel
And copper grease or anti-seize paste is my friend, love the stuff

If you decided to lay you shocks flat, you'll need to re-prime them
Ie complete 2 full movements to allow the air to sit at the top out the way

If you have a New shock - again they will need priming, so complete 2 movements

I like to fit the bottom first, so get the shock in place and fit the bolt hand tight
This allow you to align the top hole up and secure hand tight as well

You will need to torque the bolts up next
According to mk2 Haynes

Top Bolt = 80nm / 59 lbf ft
Bottom Bolt = 100nm / 74lbf ft

Once that's done, refit the wheels fitting the bolts, drop the car down and torque the wheel bolts up, a punto doesn't like being a Reliant Robin

And clean up

I created this guide to show you what i did to remove refit and check my shock absorbers
I will not take any responsibility to any damage or harm that comes to you, your property, your surrounding or anything for that matter

If you don't feel as if you can complete such task, seek professional help

What work you carry out is your own work
My word isn't Law, if your unsure - ASK!

I hope this guide has helped - If you have any questions, ask in the relevant punto sections, there are people there who will help you!