Sounds like progress 
Idling for 2 hours.. are you making up for those grounded 747's ??
Idling for 2 hours.. are you making up for those grounded 747's ??
Technical Cooked engine
- Thread starter Rado77
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Technical Cooked engine
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Good news.
Maybe old oil deposits, "tar" (neglected car, by previous owner), finally melted away (hopefully filter picked them up).
Conclusion: no "long-life" oil bulls**t folks, please.
PS
"Long-life" is a marketing slogan from the 1960's! Yes, it is that old. And it never worked (technically - so engines are still suffering from that service/maintenance strategy - it has no scientific backup but mostly advertisement claims).
Maybe old oil deposits, "tar" (neglected car, by previous owner), finally melted away (hopefully filter picked them up).
Conclusion: no "long-life" oil bulls**t folks, please.
PS
"Long-life" is a marketing slogan from the 1960's! Yes, it is that old. And it never worked (technically - so engines are still suffering from that service/maintenance strategy - it has no scientific backup but mostly advertisement claims).
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Looks like old deposits as you say. I cannot imagine another explanation for this "healing". Next oil change is planned after 6 months + new drain plug is needed.
Funny - my father in law has similar ticking (but quiet) on his new Fiesta 1.25 16V Duratec He's crazy with that, of course service said that "its ok, engine is running ok, no errir codes, theres nothing to do with that, normal behavior"
Funny - my father in law has similar ticking (but quiet) on his new Fiesta 1.25 16V Duratec
He's crazy with that, of course service said that "its ok, engine is running ok, no errir codes, theres nothing to do with that, normal behavior"These days I'm working again on exhaust. Last time I felt exhaust manifold gasked leaks from 2nd and 4th cylinders. Nothing horrible but it was there. Plus leak from 2nd gasket between catalytic converyer and 2nd exhaust part. So I'm grinding exhaust manifold again to make it 100% flat. I measured only 0.05mm diferences. As you remember, engine was overheated and that caused these small ex.man. shape changes. Bought new gaskets and now I'm grinding ex.man. like slave It's hard manual job, that's why I'm working on it 3rd day, and surface is still not completely flat (as I mentioned there are still 0.05mm diferences on few places). Butain source of engine noise come from gasket between manivert and 2nd part of exhaust. Here I habe to make flatness of both surfaces and use new gasket - thats easy job to do. And rear silencer is leaking too, so I'll buy whole 2nd exhaist part and everyting should be ok for next 5 years ;-)
It's hard manual job, that's why I'm working on it 3rd day, and surface is still not completely flat (as I mentioned there are still 0.05mm diferences on few places). Butain source of engine noise come from gasket between manivert and 2nd part of exhaust. Here I habe to make flatness of both surfaces and use new gasket - thats easy job to do. And rear silencer is leaking too, so I'll buy whole 2nd exhaist part and everyting should be ok for next 5 years ;-)
Guys, when you will buy exhaust manifild gasket, buy Elring brand. Thats gasket in one piece. Don't buy gasket where are two pieces (one piece for cylinders 1&2 and other piece for 3&4), because those gaskets are completely from diferent material. Those are very hard. Buy Elring, which is in one piece, it's soft, and material is "oily" .
For 2nd gasket between catalytic converter and 2nd part of exhaust (elyptic gasket with one big hole) - there are also two types of gaskets. One type is conpletely flat, and also completely wrong. Those are very narrow in upper and lower section and causes leaks, even if you apply some paste. Buy gasket which has few "O-rings" pressed around big center hole.
That's my experience with gaskets. I used many types and now I know ;-) Its hard to see real pictures of gaskets on e-shops, many times there's only drawing of overal gasket shape, but no information about that pressed "O-ring"
For 2nd gasket between catalytic converter and 2nd part of exhaust (elyptic gasket with one big hole) - there are also two types of gaskets. One type is conpletely flat, and also completely wrong. Those are very narrow in upper and lower section and causes leaks, even if you apply some paste. Buy gasket which has few "O-rings" pressed around big center hole.
That's my experience with gaskets. I used many types and now I know ;-) Its hard to see real pictures of gaskets on e-shops, many times there's only drawing of overal gasket shape, but no information about that pressed "O-ring"
Today I cleaned head exhaust output surface with soft pad, just to remove old dirt. Regarding grinding - on pictures you can see that I used old doors, where I glued 2 sandpaper stripes. Those are for metal, with marking P40. Each stripe is 0.5m long. Don't think (when you want to grind anything, for example cylinder head) that your desk is flat! You need minimum half meter long flatness tool to check your surface before you start grinding! My old door which I used was 0.1mm curved on one side. So triple check surface with some realy flat tool and gauges, and then glue sandpaper on it
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"Wrong" style gasket will work only, when mating surfaces, flanges are immaculate, flat, and bolts are not over-tightened (cranked with impact gun by some "grease-monkey").
As for assembly paste (adhesive, setting - means it hardens), if it's not working, try doing the opposite (before buying next gasket, other type). Use high temperature grease, anti-seize (ceramic).
Depending on temperature range, the "RTV" (silicone, high temp.) may work too. Especially downstream, "after" the cat. (so it will not "poison" it).
As for assembly paste (adhesive, setting - means it hardens), if it's not working, try doing the opposite (before buying next gasket, other type). Use high temperature grease, anti-seize (ceramic).
Depending on temperature range, the "RTV" (silicone, high temp.) may work too. Especially downstream, "after" the cat. (so it will not "poison" it).
Today is day of completing car. Only 2 concerns:
1, ex studs are really soft and I'm afraid of breaking them (one broke during dismounting ex.man.!)...made from butter or what...
2, dont have "moment key"...I dont know how to tight to 2Nm by hand. 30 degrees is no problem, but 2Nm...but I think its really weak
1, ex studs are really soft and I'm afraid of breaking them (one broke during dismounting ex.man.!)...made from butter or what...
2, dont have "moment key"...I dont know how to tight to 2Nm by hand. 30 degrees is no problem, but 2Nm...but I think its really weak
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1. Old or new (installed year or two ago) ones broke? Have any photos?
2. Torque wrench. Safe range is like 15-20 Nm (without further cranking, angle). This is where experience comes in, "the feel" in the hands. It's the same range as sparkplugs. If you ever changed one, go by the feel (muscle memory).
2. Torque wrench. Safe range is like 15-20 Nm (without further cranking, angle). This is where experience comes in, "the feel" in the hands. It's the same range as sparkplugs. If you ever changed one, go by the feel (muscle memory).
1. old stud broke (original). Fotunately didn't destroyed thread in head. I had new one so installing new was pretty easy
2. of course I know tightening on sparkplugs ;-) I used that strength, using cross-pattern from the midle.
Now I'm waiting for drying Bosal paste used on 2nd gasket (also new). Overal I have good feeling about my work. Didnt installed heatshield, 1st I want to test it this night. Unfortunately I have no photos :-( I was so excited that I forgot my phone at home But nothing interesting...everything cleaned, shiny, except 1 stud (bigger) which I installed year ago and another black and little bit longer than others which I had to install instead of broken one, mentioned in point 1
2. of course I know tightening on sparkplugs ;-) I used that strength, using cross-pattern from the midle.
Now I'm waiting for drying Bosal paste used on 2nd gasket (also new). Overal I have good feeling about my work. Didnt installed heatshield, 1st I want to test it this night. Unfortunately I have no photos :-( I was so excited that I forgot my phone at home
But nothing interesting...everything cleaned, shiny, except 1 stud (bigger) which I installed year ago and another black and little bit longer than others which I had to install instead of broken one, mentioned in point 1So finaly done. Periodic "bass" noise during acceleration is gone. No leak also from 2nd gasket behind catalytic converter. Here's picture...nothing interesting...I used "double nuts" to secure main nuts. But I have to buy whole 2nd exhaust part because I saw (unwound plait), I dont know how to say it in English - that part of exhhaust pipe which allows to move whole 2nd part of exhaust..so it's undwound and I saw black color on exhaust pipe, so it must be leaking a little bit (not noticable by hand on idle), and silencer is also almost dead from inside - I hear bass sound from it during deceleration plus few silent backfires inside...sounds like sporty
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Bernievarian
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You probably meant the "flexi" (mesh) pipe ?
So my "cooked engine" is running well. I also found false air intake around flap - thats becaise I dismounted airbox 20-30 times and rubber seal didnt seals as it should. I feel noticable difference in engine power when I sealed all these leaks. So only one thing left - rear silencer. I took some pictures and it really in bad condition
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Bernievarian
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NOT a good idea: the "flex" is there to compensate engine's motion. A straight pipe would induce unwanted stress, which you don' need ...
BRs, Bernie
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