levemircento said:

Before I get back to them, I could do with knowing about the AC, I dont mind trying a regas, I am going to price up an engine cover, cos if I buy it then it has to be right.

I reckon I could get it for £800 based upon those faults.

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Ac might just need a gas up and they could do it for you, it would work for a couple of months and the gas all leaks out again, obviously get them to do a regassed if they will but don’t think if that all works ok that the ac is completely fault free.

The engine cover on these car is also the air filter housing, they can be costly to replace.

You didn't heared the "click" when turning AC on can mean two things: the gas pressure is too low so the system doesn't allow the compressor to engage, OR the gas is ok but the clutch or its circuit has a fault...
Regarding the loose engine cover, it comes usually from broken posts: they snap in the cam cover so you'd need to re-drill/tap and replace the posts.

None of those are serious issues, but need fix to get a decent driving experience...

BRs, Bernie

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I sent a text to the seller last night, saying that I will offer £750 for the car providing it drives ok, as this gives me some money to fix the two issues.

They txt back, offer accepted.

I have messaged a couple of sellers who are breaking these on Ebay, about the engine cover, but not had a reply back. Can anyone give me details of a Fiat breaker?


How easy is it to get another key? its not THAT important, but i'd like to know just in case I want to get another.

Bernievarian said:

You didn't heared the "click" when turning AC on can mean two things: the gas pressure is too low so the system doesn't allow the compressor to engage,

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Me and the Mrs both have MG ZR's, she got hers first, hers has AC and at some point had a replacement engine, AC didnt work so I took it for regassing, he pressured it and the AC pump worked as the low pressure meant the pump didnt activate [light on switch worked], so he then regassed it fully and it worked for a short time [couple of weeks] and the gas leaked out, we didnt bother after that, but we had to gas it just to see.

So for me, its a one time job, if the gas leaks out, then so be it. I know that they are expensive to repair.

Are there any AC parts behind the lower part of the front bumper on the GP? it will be worth me having a close look to see if anything has been damaged when the car got its scratch.

is there a parts diagram I can look at?

Hi ?
This is a place to start.

https://www.fiatdalys.lt/en/catalog/parts/501/1/42/3/2Y/0/0/M72,M73/0/GD

BRs. Kjeld

I now own a 2006 1.3 GP Dynamic 90

I took it for about an 8 mile test drive, and all seems well, starts and stops well, goes in a straight line, no smoke or odd noises.

The lower front bumper was missing a small grille on the n/s, we had previously settled on 750 but I said thats another part I'll need to buy, can I pay 700, so the deal was done. It seems to be cheap compared to others that I have seen for sale recently.

I bought some temp insurance, and drove it home, will go back for our other car later.


the engine, as I stated earlier, the cover/airbox is damaged, I have messaged numerous sellers on ebay but none seem to be returning to say they have one or not, annoying!




the car









now, this might be normal for this engine, but in 1st gear pulling away the lag is unreal, it boosts up around 4000rpm which I think is a bit high, if you quickly go to the next gear its better at around 3000rpm but it does feel like your foot is right to the floor almost.

it might not help that the air filter needs changing, it is also missing a fresh air pipe between near top of rad to the airbox inlet pipe just under the engine cover

the pipe that runs from the turbo air outlet down around the front lower o/s [I assume its intercooler pipe?] is slightly rusty and oily, I suppose there is a chance there could be a small air leak when its under low pressure, car wont be run now until i sell my MG so I will have plenty of chance to get under it and have a proper look.

no engine light or any smoke, and it idles well.

Congratulations.

The boost usually kicks in much lower down and it’s such a little turbo it’s not exactly a massive kick, but the broken engine cover is likely to have an impact, and also if it’s not been serviced for a while, or had the wrong oil put in, this run on 5w 30 normally and people tend to bung anything in usually 10w 40 which is thicker and more common.

Consider an oil and filter change when you sort your airbox issue out, missing grill are easily sourced on eBay.

It doesn't look baad at all ! And for 700£ it was certainly not a bad deal...

The 90cv engine has a variable vane turbo to accomodate low and high revs. Let's assume the vanes are locked in high rev position, they wouldn't be efficient at all at low revs ! You can check from outside (bonnet open) if the command is still working: at the engine, where the plastic pipe is missing, just behing the catching mecanism, you'll see the pneumatic (vaccum) actuator that pulls the control rod. It (the rod) must be free to be hand moved (engine off) against the internal spring...

BRs, Bernie

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After a 50 mile trip last night, I think it was cheap for a reason.

The boost is coming on wayyyy too late, especially in first gear, and when it does boost it DOES! chaging into second it will boost sooner

also, turbo is whining, even the Mrs noticed it, and she isnt a car person


I might need to start another topic, is there anything I can check - I have looked at various pipes which all seem sound, the actuator is free, there is no EML on dash showing [I will plug a reader in when I get home, just to see if theres any codes]

I definatly cant afford a new or recon turbo, and there will be no point buying a used one, I am confident that if I have to, I could remove the turbo, to replace its core, but I need to make sure that is a last resort if there are things that I should check.

Bernievarian said:

you'll see the pneumatic (vaccum) actuator that pulls the control rod. It (the rod) must be free to be hand moved (engine off) against the internal spring...

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its free, and if I pull vacuum on its small bore rubber tube it does pull
although the actuator or rod looks new - could it need adjusting? theres no threadlock on it like I have seen in other pics, I will get pics.

part of the reason for me buying a diesel, was to learn more about them!

Maybe it (the actuator) has been replaced then, if so it definitely needs to be adjusted. If you get time you could go by the trial and error method: shorten the rod 1/4 turn by 1/4 turn until it reduces the lag and if it doesn't, go opposite... You should notice a difference at some point !

BRs, Bernie

If someone here helped You fix -or better, understand- your issue, hit the thanks icon @ bottom right corner, it's free and makes us feel helpy ;-)

I will give it a try

how does the actuator work on the 90 then? does it pull for boost?

the vac pipe goes to a small sensor mounted near rad, and then another small bore pipe comes off that and goes round the back of the engine on cam chain end, where does it go to?


will that be why its whining? I will try and get the boost pipe off the turbo so I can see in to the blades, will see if theres any damage and give it a wiggle to check for play on the shaft

Remove the inlet pipe from the turbo and by hand feel the end float of the turbo, wiggle the turbo shaft and if you can feel any significant movement then the bearings are probably toast.

When I say significant movement, I mean any movement really, you may normally be able to detect some slight movement, but if it feels like the shaft is moving 0.5 - 1mm or more, it’s probably had it.

Hi Andy. I watch your youtube channel.

levemircento said:

I will give it a try

how does the actuator work on the 90 then? does it pull for boost?

the vac pipe goes to a small sensor mounted near rad, and then another small bore pipe comes off that and goes round the back of the engine on cam chain end, where does it go to?


will that be why its whining? I will try and get the boost pipe off the turbo so I can see in to the blades, will see if theres any damage and give it a wiggle to check for play on the shaft

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From my previous experience I can say the actuator pulls the rotating disk that drives the vanes to be efficient in low revs, then it release some vacuum to allow a better vane position for high volume exhaust gas, then, when the boost pressure become too high it pulls again to reduce the efficiency...

The 'sensor near the rad' is an electro-valve that modulate how much of vacuum is applied to the actuator, thus the vanes position. The pipes goes to a vacuum accumulator located at the back of engine. This all need to be in perfect condition (no leaks) to work as intended...

BRs, Bernie

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thanks, you are very informative

if I were to watch the actuator rod, and somebody revved the engine up [pressing down to full throttle] am I likely to see the rod move?

some parts of the rubber tubes have been renewed, the original long pipe that goes round the back hasnt, so would need to get under the rear of the engine to see it with the car on ramps

is there a way to test the electro valve with the engine running?

before you get too carried away i'd get the air filter/engine cover replaced first, as you don't know how much impact this could be having with it sucking all the hot air from the top of the engine. could just be the car is a little breathless.

AndyRKett said:

before you get too carried away i'd get the air filter/engine cover replaced first, as you don't know how much impact this could be having with it sucking all the hot air from the top of the engine. could just be the car is a little breathless.

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cant think how many places I have contacted today to try and find one!! still awaiting a reply from a few but if you know any Punto breakers let me know

I have phoned about 50 places today from birmingham up to preston and many in and around manchester and none of them have that airbox/engine cover. I had to go out this morning so I called in to a couple of breakers in Bury too, I had just missed one yesterday!!

Looking at my airbox, the airways through it are undisturbed, the damage to the plastic is mainly on the location ports.

The current air filter is a bit dirty but not terrible. Fuel filter looks a little rusty on top, so that hasnt been changed in a while.


The engine doesnt seem to want to rev up if you press the pedal hard down, I dont have a helper at the moment so I dont know if the actuator is working but I have tried the rod and it is very free if I pull towards the actuator itself.

Looking around the turbo, there is a new jubilee clip on the inlet, the inlet side of the housing looks clean, and so does the exhaust side.




I have plugged a code reader in even though there is no EML showing, but there are no codes stored.

Am fed up to be honest, we also have a Berlingo Multispace Hdi, if you rev that up it will boost up quickly, as I am sure most other diesels will, but this is just flat.


I need saving, before the Mrs starts giving me grief!!

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/362703371512

Best pin this one down quickly !! £30 !