Take it into a dealer.
...and if you don't let your confidence exceed your competence then I have great respect to those who get their spanners out to do it and even more respect for those who ask for help!
can you imagine on a 6/7 year old car trying to remove that, especially if no one put anti seize on the bolts/nuts in the past?
Check this 'How To" from Utoob, like he says it kinda crazy that you gotta loosen the wheel hub bolts to get to the caliper carrier mounting bolts!
https://youtu.be/9iDFWBVI_pM
Paul m.
The rear brakes on disc braked 500's are notorious for premature corrosion.
I don't understand why makers put discs on the rear of "small" cars, given that perhaps only 10% of braking is done by them corrosion is bound to start at an early stage due to "lack of wear" even on our other much larger car corrosion to the disc causes failure before "wearing out"
Take it into a dealer.
It was "helpful" posts from this poster that made me stop using this forum for a long time.
What a piece of,,, "poor design lets say" can you imagine on a 6/7 year old car trying to remove that, especially if no one put anti seize on the bolts/nuts in the past?
But its similar(rubbish design) for the rear drums any lip that forms on the drum stops you pulling it off, there's no access to wind back the self adjuster and you end up destroying the fitting kit holding the shoes in place.
A kit which includes wheel cylinders and everything that sits inside the drum is available. I would list the part number of the one sitting in my spare room, but I wouldn’t want to make people leave because of my helpful advice.
A kit which includes wheel cylinders and everything that sits inside the drum is available. I would list the part number of the one sitting in my spare room, but I wouldn’t want to make people leave because of my helpful advice.
It's ok I did end up replacing everything hubs and all, bar one wheel cylinder, just the job was harder than it should have been.