Hutbed said:

To clarify- it does not have resistance to the idle or make any noise while the clutch is pressed.

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Andrew, Don't run it - it sounds awful !!!! Have you changed the gearbox and internals around ???? If so did you put everything back together as it came apart ??? If not have you set up the Diff backlash and the Driveshaft turning torque ???? Get the box seen to before any lasting damage is done.
Ian.

I don't believe the bearings are overtightened. There have been changes: the car prior to this work had synchro internals in a 500 housing with upgraded axles and the original engine. To do this install with the 700cc engine, I used a 126 transmission, opened the differential portion, and swapped those upgraded shafts and internal differential gear from the the car into it. I used the 126 bell housing to mount on the 700 engine. Everything went together well, and with care. I'm a bit concerned I do not know about this backlash and torque adjusting...

Hutbed said:

I'm a bit concerned I do not know about this backlash and torque adjusting...

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You may have disturbed the adjustment of the crownwheel and pinion as these are very fine settings, although most people doing what you've done don't seem to get too wrapped-up in it, nor do they generally seem to have problems.

Splitting the box and replacing the front end which carries the bellhousing could upset the depth of the pinion with the crownwheel. This is individually adjusted with the shims behind the pinion to suit every production box. There may also have been complications because the 126 and 500 pinion shafts have a different end arrangement and length, but I'm not sure of the implication in your case.

Most people who have done this appear to feel that as long as you don't disturb the castellated bearing adjusters at each side of the box then you should be OK with the backlash/preload of the bearings; I am less sure of this. With the amount of changes you have made, in my experience it is quite likely that the settings are out. Whether they would be sufficiently far astray to cause this amount of friction is less certain. Have you tried turning the driveshafts by hand whilst detached from the hubs and obviously in neutral gear?

That is all unfamiliar to me... I have very limited gearbox experience. When in neutral, I can very freely spin the rear wheel, causing the opposite to spin the other direction.

Hutbed said:

That is all unfamiliar to me... I have very limited gearbox experience. When in neutral, I can very freely spin the rear wheel, causing the opposite to spin the other direction.

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.... was also to me a year ago..
Spinning one wheel is bypassing the movement of the crownwheel in its bearings. What to do, with the wheels off the ground is to turn both driveshafts simultaneously in the same direction; better still is to do this with them disconnected at the hubs. If turning them is very difficult or impossible then we most likely will have a diagnosis.

Hutbed said:

I used a 126 transmission, opened the differential portion, and swapped those upgraded shafts and internal differential gear from the the car into it.

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Andrew, re the portion of your previous post above - have you replaced the differential crown wheel from your original box into the 126 box ONLY, if so the Diff backlash may be very tight. Or have you changed BOTH the crown wheel and pinion at the same time ??????? If you have changed both then it sounds as Peter says the adjustment is out and will need to be reset - check and download the Haynes 126 manual on this site it explains how to complete the process.
Ian.

Bleeding Knuckles said:

Andrew, re the portion of your previous post above - have you replaced the differential crown wheel from your original box into the 126 box ONLY, if so the Diff backlash may be very tight. Or have you changed BOTH the crown wheel and pinion at the same time ??????? If you have changed both then it sounds as Peter says the adjustment is out and will need to be reset - check and download the Haynes 126 manual on this site it explains how to complete the process.
Ian.

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This picture shows what was swapped from one trans to the other. Nothing else was swapped. After reading in the Haynes manual, I believe you're right- the retaining ring on one side was removed and then surely tightened on replacement at more than the spec provided.

The pinion on the gearbox main shaft is matched to the crown wheel in the factory and should not be mixed up so you need to used the correct set as well as setting up the backlash.

Toshi 975 said:

The pinion on the gearbox main shaft is matched to the crown wheel in the factory and should not be mixed up so you need to used the correct set as well as setting up the backlash.

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What is the procedure for replacing a pinion gear?

Hutbed said:

What is the procedure for replacing a pinion gear?

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The pinion gear is part of the main shaft so you cannot just replace the gear. If you change the whole main shaft it may upset the shimming on the shaft further affecting the backlash. Easier to swop over the crownwheel on the diff housing, six bolts, then you just have the backlash setting via the diff bearing housings to contend with.

Toshi 975 said:

...Easier to swop over the crownwheel on the diff housing, six bolts, then you just have the backlash setting via the diff bearing housings to contend with.

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Thanks a ton!

Well it's a good thing I didn't try to just do that outer tension ring adjustment and hope the ring gear and pinion would be fine... found this.

Ok, so now I've gone back to the "original" transmission (having 126 synchro internals), mating it with it's crown gear and the junkyard transmission's 126 bell housing, and been much more delicate with the outer rings. Transmission will be installed tomorrow. Wish me luck. Haha

I have found the easiest way to transfer the diff unit is to have the gearbox, well supported, in a vertical position, with, if possible, the weight of the gearbox OFF the gear-adjuster rod.This way the diff assembly can be very carefully lifted straight out (up) and then fitted straight down when refitting the unit. After the bell-housing has been removed and the position of the bearings and adjusters noted and marked, the complete diff/drive-shaft assembly can be removed. I realise that all this information is 'hind-sight' (20/20 vision), but I hope that it is help to you on the next part of the job.

THANK YOU to everyone, she drives again! Needs a degreaser bath, but she drives smooth and with a LOT more power! I'm working on a YouTube video showing some of this project, I will share a link when it's done. Again, thank you all!

Hutbed said:

THANK YOU to everyone, she drives again! Needs a degreaser bath, but she drives smooth and with a LOT more power! I'm working on a YouTube video showing some of this project, I will share a link when it's done. Again, thank you all!

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Loving the greasy hand print

Phew! great to hear that it is all back in and running well. But, don't forget---you still have only drum brakes, and there is a fair chance that you will be tempted to drive the car more than a tad faster! If you can find them, try to get hold of a set of MK 1 '126' wheels. They have the same wheel-bolt spacing as the 500 (190 pcd), but are a shade wider.

The Whitakers said:

Loving the greasy hand print

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A few hours later, it's been washed. Haha

the hobbler said:

...don't forget---you still have only drum brakes, and there is a fair chance that you will be tempted to drive the car more than a tad faster! If you can find them, try to get hold of a set of MK 1 '126' wheels. They have the same wheel-bolt spacing as the 500 (190 pcd), but are a shade wider.

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Tom- Yes, I'm now going from a stop to 4th gear in about 8 seconds without trying... I plan to get discs on the front!

Hutbed said:

Tom- Yes, I'm now going from a stop to 4th gear in about 8 seconds without trying... I plan to get discs on the front!

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that's very good.

that was some journey you've been on with your transmission. i couldn't understand a word of it but i'm glad you got it sorted.

mind the pot holes.