sediciRich
Member
I got a 155 pdf off the web how to rebuild the box, I have std gear set if any of yours are worn. In the end I got Neil Smith of NJS motorservice to rebuild it (Fiat alfa specialist).
General what have you done for her lately
- Thread starter maddogmorg
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General what have you done for her lately
i've just been thinking i've got the lancia delta manual on cd somewhere, its for the 2.0 16v so it should be the same gearbox as mine i think, ill have to dig it out and have a look.
how much would you want for gears if mine are worn rich?
how much would you want for gears if mine are worn rich?
sediciRich
Member
not a lot, see how yours are first, if any are pitted or chipped then they should be replaced, I would estimat all you syncro rings will need changing and they dont cost too much. I had the the dear hub bearing changed- or rather Neil changed them as 3rd gear was not engaging correctly. See how you get on, my box had only done about 54k miles.
Rich
Rich
fitted a battery to her tonight, cranked up first time and took her for a spin, i've missed her dearly, so much better than driving the astra and the hand brake didn't stick on like the astra when its been left for a while. going to buy a new manifold gasket for her off ebay as there is a load on ebay starting at 99p and just waiting for reply on the flex section of the exhaust from a guy off ebay. been looking at some back boxes as well but not sure which is the best to get. anyway got a big list of things to treat her too.
sediciRich
Member
Taken discs off again to be reground, got large oil cooler, actually fits not bad where it was, little bit of adjustment needed on the duct. Need to clean the oil off the g-box as it must be weaping. Oh removing the oil stat too, its pointless on the race car. Oh got all the slicks reverse on the rims.
rich
rich
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OP
OP
been to bristol 'n back. car running fine generally.
my dad spoke to the MoT tester who said that my car was in great condition
but i still haven't sorted out the idle problem. but me dad is also going to have a word with the auto electrician at work to see where the fault lies if it's electrical.
my dad spoke to the MoT tester who said that my car was in great condition
but i still haven't sorted out the idle problem. but me dad is also going to have a word with the auto electrician at work to see where the fault lies if it's electrical.
How's your idle valve?
OP
OP
clean and shiny, and works with the current applied, probably is that but just in case it's not that, it's good to make sure everything else is ok. be done for a few beers if that
need to give her a service too. just so i know exactly when to do it from then on. need to go shopping lol. best spark plugs? best oil? got a genuine Fiat oil filter for £3 off ebay
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Mine needs to go see an auto-electrician to take out the F'in immobiliser.
just bought the flexy section for the exhaust, came to £38 with postage, the one i have got on has had a battering from when my bracket snapped and all the weight was on it. its got funny bolts with round heads were it meets the down pipe so looks like i will have to drill them out.
sediciRich
Member
clean and shiny, and works with the current applied, probably is that but just in case it's not that, it's good to make sure everything else is ok. be done for a few beers if that
need to give her a service too. just so i know exactly when to do it from then on. need to go shopping lol. best spark plugs? best oil? got a genuine Fiat oil filter for £3 off ebay
Best oil is selenia racing, or the grade below, Selenia fully synth. Besk plugs are the NGK equiv of the correct champions for the tipo - if that makes sense. Incidetally I do run bosch super 4s, I know they get in the way of combustion but I like the idea of there being more chance of getting it started if there has been too much fuel around Idle condition which happens in my case.
i've been looking at some of them, would you say there not worth getting then if im only doing day to day running around and not racing it around a track?
i've won that manifold gasket, he has ended it early, he has also ended a load more early which had no bids and when i've had a look at his feed back he has not got any so im in 2 minds to pay, think i might be getting shafted
sediciRich
Member
super 4's are def not a race plug, I have a new set of those, just have enough problems keeping it running in the assembly area. For a road car they are good, esp on cold starts.
Spent most of the morning putting the new 'old' wishbones and drop links in. Spent about 2 months on my diesel tipo and then took them off when it was scrapped - that was about 3 years ago. As expected the old arms had shafted rear bushes and the drop link rubbers were shot too.
Still haven't perfected a way of installing the lower arms with the suspension towers still in place. Always ends up with a lot of swearing and straining.
As for the droplink to wishbone nut - the least said the better. After managing one turn it wouldn't budge any further. Took an angle grinder to it and the heat seemed to loosen it as it turned another half a turn. So we wound it back to clean the thread... and it went back, and back and back... and we'd been turning the damn thing the wrong way.
F***
All back together and feeling nice and tight. No wobble in the steering anymore, and no fighting with it under acceleration.
Still haven't perfected a way of installing the lower arms with the suspension towers still in place. Always ends up with a lot of swearing and straining.
As for the droplink to wishbone nut - the least said the better. After managing one turn it wouldn't budge any further. Took an angle grinder to it and the heat seemed to loosen it as it turned another half a turn. So we wound it back to clean the thread... and it went back, and back and back... and we'd been turning the damn thing the wrong way.
F***
All back together and feeling nice and tight. No wobble in the steering anymore, and no fighting with it under acceleration.
sediciRich
Member
wish bone removal takes no more than 20 mins. Jack up both side (very important), undo pinch bolt, knock out with a hammer, use prybar to push through against cv joint mating face (not boot). Undo 17mm drop link (turn it the right way huh), remove 4 U clamp bolts, bish bosh bash, job a good-un. In assembly for anyone reading this, be careful putting the lower pinch in - you must line the indent on the ball joint pin up exactly with the hole in the hub, the bolt should push through will not too much resistance, if it doesnt then you stand a good chance of ruining the threads on the bolt and youu'll not get a true torque on them. Also, by jacking both sides of the car you even the load off the roll bar making putting it back together far easier.
Incidentally I have to do this more often they I'd care to admit, as the bushes can push through the so called U clamps when riding the kerbs, and have to be reset.
rich
Incidentally I have to do this more often they I'd care to admit, as the bushes can push through the so called U clamps when riding the kerbs, and have to be reset.
rich
Getting them off took about 15-20 minutes as you say. No trouble there, well apart from that one nut on the end of the ARB. Lesson for us all kids.. Don't work on a car while hungry. It plays with your mind.
Issue was with trying to get the damned new ones on. They want to sit horizontal but the hub is about 4 inches lower. Does fitting powerflex mean you can twist the arm down to meet the hub, 'cause new original arms don't move much even with a heavy barsteward stood on them.
Anyway, on topic, today Tipo's got a little sponsorship... oh and a spolier to keep that rear end under control
Issue was with trying to get the damned new ones on. They want to sit horizontal but the hub is about 4 inches lower. Does fitting powerflex mean you can twist the arm down to meet the hub, 'cause new original arms don't move much even with a heavy barsteward stood on them.
Anyway, on topic, today Tipo's got a little sponsorship... oh and a spolier to keep that rear end under control
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Car looks nice also good to see you have gone back to the original wheels compared to the other picture of your car. i do like the original wheels sprayed black against the white car really sets them off
Car looks nice also good to see you have gone back to the original wheels compared to the other picture of your car. i do like the original wheels sprayed black against the white car really sets them off
cheers, must sort my Sig out..
better photos here: https://www.fiatforum.com/gallery/showgallery.php?cat=1900
i've fitted the original back lights on yesterday as my other half drove into the back of my car yesterday morning:bang: and smashed the light on one side and she has knocked my bumber out of line so i'll have to take it off and see if i can line it back up.
i've also bought a nice big JBL amp today to power the rockford fosgate sub i bought the other month, sounds well.:slayer:
i've also bought a nice big JBL amp today to power the rockford fosgate sub i bought the other month, sounds well.:slayer:
OP
OP
haven't done anything since passing the MoT been thinking about why it doesn't idle properly though.... could the EGR system have something to do with it? more to the point what is the point of the two vacuum pipes which go into the top of the thermostat bit, i assume they're to do with the EGR but what would it do if they weren't sealed properly probably makes no difference but hmmmmm. what are they for?
been thinking about why it doesn't idle properly though.... could the EGR system have something to do with it? more to the point what is the point of the two vacuum pipes which go into the top of the thermostat bit, i assume they're to do with the EGR but what would it do if they weren't sealed properly probably makes no difference but hmmmmm. what are they for?
