Technical Timing Doblo 1.3

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Technical Timing Doblo 1.3

Plastic Bob

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Guys. Doblo Van, 1.3 Multijet 2013

I’ve recently changed the full Timing kit. Used the cam locks successfully, but, now the crank pin. I couldn’t locate it properly. So marked the flywheel to the bell housing, did the job and checked it by turning it over by hand. Everything seemed good. Only now, sometimes takes longer than normal to fire up, slightly louder engine (rattles) and doesn’t feel quite as perky as it should.

Timing issue?
No smoke, no dash lights.
 
Guys. Doblo Van, 1.3 Multijet 2013

I’ve recently changed the full Timing kit. Used the cam locks successfully, but, now the crank pin. I couldn’t locate it properly. So marked the flywheel to the bell housing, did the job and checked it by turning it over by hand. Everything seemed good. Only now, sometimes takes longer than normal to fire up, slightly louder engine (rattles) and doesn’t feel quite as perky as it should.

Timing issue?
No smoke, no dash lights.
It's good you did the turning over by hand several times before trying the starter:). I have heard stories of Main Dealer mechanics fitting timing gear and just trying to start a vehicle causing £2k of damage on some makes of vehicle:(. I always turn engine at least two full revolutions by hand.
Some years ago I had to rebuild one of my daughters car a 06 Grande Punto 1.3 Multijet that the timing had slipped and damaged lots due to a previous owners "mechanics" trying to tow start causing the "freewheeling" crank pulley to slip, so bought it as a non runner.
I bought the full timing tool set, read all I could and located all the timing points including flywheel pin.
As it is running it cannot be far out, so maybe with ignition key out you can gentle turn the crank pulley until pin drops into place and recheck the two camshaft locking pins, they should just slide in easily if correct, not forced or wriggled in.
I know it is a pain with having to release the freewheeling crank pulley again and ideally fit a new crank pulley bolt, but as you can feel it isn't right yourself, then not something you can leave.
Was the timing tools kit new, not s/h that some one had bent the pins using them as locking pins when tightening the crank pulley as that has to be very tight with it having to hold a "freewheeling" pulley? Ideally the crank bolt especially needs holding by other means not a small locking pin in the flywheel.
When I did mine the locking plate to hold the crank pulley in the kit was too weak so I held the square boss behind the pulley with a three foot long Stilson when tightening to correct torque after removing the timing pin once bolt first nipped up a bit to hold in place.
Assuming you have four good compressions, is it possible the crank and cam timing position sensors have got moved or damaged?
Is it possible there was slack in chain between the two cams? I always bring up to timing marks in normal direction of rotation slowly so that all the slack is at the tensioner side after moving any guides if adjustable to their best positions.
 
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Hi @Plastic Bob 🙂

Was the kit changed for your own peace of mind.., or was there an issue.. Or Failure?


Great that at @bugsymike has 1st hand experience, timing kits do seem to be cheaply knocked out nowadays,

I am also wondering if there are subtle differences between the early and late motors - potential for minor changes in kit..?

A friend had a painful experience with a vw - Audi timing issue for similar reasons
 
Morning Guys. Thanks for getting back to me.
The fixed tensioner/ runner had failed and the chain was just flapping around.
It was still running fine.
I got the FAI full replacement kit with the upgraded chain. TCK6ST
It’s done 300 odd miles since the build but just feels different.
 
UPDATE. Right, this Noise/Issue hit a peak today. Heavy Ticking noise and huge loss of power. The Injector seal on cylinder 1 had failed. Number 3 went a while back, I cleaned 3&4 using a seating tool and new Seals and left 1&2 as they were dry and seemed fine. Not driven it yet but it idled fine. Hopefully it’s put an end to my Timing doubts. Although I have noticed a slight oil leak on the chain cover/oil pump. Might end up being a complete strip down.
 
UPDATE. Right, this Noise/Issue hit a peak today. Heavy Ticking noise and huge loss of power. The Injector seal on cylinder 1 had failed. Number 3 went a while back, I cleaned 3&4 using a seating tool and new Seals and left 1&2 as they were dry and seemed fine. Not driven it yet but it idled fine. Hopefully it’s put an end to my Timing doubts. Although I have noticed a slight oil leak on the chain cover/oil pump. Might end up being a complete strip down.
I assume yours is the same as my daughters was , with one clamp holding down two injectors, a pretty stupid idea and bound to cause clamping problems, the 1.6 is better designed.
The other thing hers had, was a timing cover oil leak caused by some previous owner allowing chain to eat through the alloy cover, then dobbing sealant over it!
It sometimes is a good idea to put a blob of sealant where the sump meets the timing cover, rather than just relying on the new gaskets I found.
 
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