Technical  Temp gauge high

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Technical  Temp gauge high

Not taking the **** intentionally , it would be really good if you could put that up on forum as a guide or something that stays visible.
I don't know how and only use my phone for forum which limits what I can do.
You may remember I have stuck up for you in the past when others were being unpleasant to you.
Best wishes
Jack
Oh... Sorry, then!
I really thought you did...
I do post about it whenever I see it being asked because indeed, it's a simple job that can be made so hard if the steps are not done in the right order, then air just moves from one side to other.
I will try and post your link when opportunity arises. It is an useful link.
Will try to make it a guide...
 
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You may remember I have stuck up for you in the past when others were being unpleasant to you.
I do remember and I must say I do appreciate very much your contribution on the forum. It's always technical valuable and a pleasure to read. I was really baffled because I couldn't understand why are you having a go at me...
Maybe my comment before triggered something but I was really saying that with good intentions, to repeat that information as much as needed.
Fortunately the forum activity and info is at very large volume and some people doesn't always manage to get to the info they need.
I did made the info from your link into a guide, I hope it will be published so we'll have internal forum link to pass it on whenever it is needed.
Again, I apologize too, for being that jumpy.
 
Note This should not be needed with an OEM steel coolant pipe under the exhaust manifold.

Mine is a pattern part that causes a harder time bleeding the cooling system. The pipe looks identical to OEM, except the punched hole to connect the heater branch is a bit smaller. I can bleed the main radiator so the engine is happy but the heater will gurgle. I solve it with a large bore straight rubber hose that fits snugly over the the heater hose bleed screw boss. Remove the bleed screw, fit the add-on hose over the boss and fill with coolant. Now squeeze a convenient engine hose. You will hear bubbles going up your temporary hose. Top up your hose and repeat until there are no more bubbles. Pop off the temporary rubber and replace the bleed screw.

If your cylinder head is OK there will be no more gurgling noise from the heater.
 
Was the cam belt and water pump changed prior to sale? A decent garage usually does this as a precaution. If it was done, its probably just not bled properly. Im sure they will redo this, I agree with all the previous comments. If they did the belt, and water pump they need to re bleed the system. I find getting all the air out can take a fair bit of effort and time.
 
getting all the air out can take a fair bit of effort and time.

Never understood this, I had 3 pandas and they all self bleed fine

The thermostat has a one way valve

Fiat has even done away with the radiator bleed screws on the later cars

There something going on, I always refill very slowly
 
Never understood this, I had 3 pandas and they all self bleed fine

The thermostat has a one way valve

Fiat has even done away with the radiator bleed screws on the later cars

There something going on, I always refill very slowly

Ive never had water refilling troubles with any other car, but the 1.2 seems a royal pain in the rear. My unauthodox method is to blow into the rad top while the bleed is open. Pressure on the radiator when the engine is off seems to work. It drives me mad, and they have all been the same. The TA seems to self bleed OK though. Once they have settled down they seem to be no problem only very tiny amounts of water are needed occasionally, usually after several nundred miles on the motorway. After my last cam belt I checked the water the folowing day and it took a litre to top up, so my garage must have also left a lot of air in the system. That car has been fine since. I would like to see how you do it as Im clearly doing something wrong, and others must make the same mistake. I will go much slower next time as you suggest.
 
Ive never had water refilling troubles with any other car, but the 1.2 seems a royal pain in the rear. My unauthodox method is to blow into the rad top while the bleed is open. Pressure on the radiator when the engine is off seems to work. It drives me mad, and they have all been the same. The TA seems to self bleed OK though. Once they have settled down they seem to be no problem only very tiny amounts of water are needed occasionally, usually after several nundred miles on the motorway. After my last cam belt I checked the water the folowing day and it took a litre to top up, so my garage must have also left a lot of air in the system. That car has been fine since. I would like to see how you do it as Im clearly doing something wrong, and others must make the same mistake. I will go much slower next time as you suggest.

Most will have new thermostats maybe the make

Who knows, it's a strange one
 
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