General Sump plug removal

[Alpine26]

I need to buy a 12mm hex to remove the plug, as my tool box does not include that

I was thinking of buying a 12mm allen key, but my mechanic suggested I might struggle to get it off with an allen key.

Does an allen key usually suffice, or do I need to get a socket bit so I can use my socket wrench?

 

[chris3234]

https://www.toolstation.com/ball-end-hex-key-set/p34415


I got this set to remove the sump plug on my car more then long enough assuming it hadn't been done up stupidly tight

 

[David C]

When I first needed to do mine back in 2005, I got the correct drain plug key from Halfords.
My local had one in stock.
You’ll probably find one on Amazon for next-day too now.

 

[David C]

Usually needed the long 60cm breaker bar on it too, so an Allen key wound have been a struggle...!!

 

[chris3234]

Usually needed the long 60cm breaker bar on it too, so an Allen key wound have been a struggle...!!

What are you doing to need to sump plug that tight?

 

[Alpine26]

cheers all. I think that was my mechanic's point, that an allen key might not be long enough to get the power(?) to remove it

 

[varesecrazy]

What are you doing to need to sump plug that tight?

I suspect the 'extension' is to REMOVE the plug..

I use an allen key.. as its nice and simple to get the plug 'square' going back in (quite possibly how some threads get damaged..?)
However ...Some plugs are in stupidly tight ..so I use a length of tube over the key.

 

[portland_bill]

For my first Fiat, back in 1988, I bought a 12mm allen key.
Sadly, plug done up stupidly tight, so I had to find a better solution. Something like this: https://www.diycarserviceparts.co.u...VP-7u2ZvrSnDbCHUfDqNno55Sv1uMTaBoCUX8QAvD_BwE
Mine came with a tommy bar, too short for a tight plug, but ideal for refitting it. The larger outer hexagon allows a breaker bar to be used to undo, btu do not use a long bar for refitting.
Pull gently, and look and feel to ensure the plug is moving , not the sump twisting.
I think I've used the allen key to refit a plug once or twice.

If the hex hole is damaged, new plugs are cheap.

 

[Pugglt Auld Jock]

I suspect the 'extension' is to REMOVE the plug..

I use an allen key.. as its nice and simple to get the plug 'square' going back in (quite possibly how some threads get damaged..?)
However ...Some plugs are in stupidly tight ..so I use a length of tube over the key.

That's how I tackle it too Charlie:



The Allen key is actually one from a box of old Allen keys I bought for next to nothing at the Autojumble which used to be held in Portobello town hall - anyone know if that is still held? - I had to buff the end down a little to make it fit Felicity and it's been used on all the others since. As you can see I have an even longer length of pipe if needed but, so far, have only had to use it once which was the first time I did an oil change on my boy's Punto.

I sometimes wonder about these keys I bought. None of them are size marked but are almost certainly imperial sizes. They are all in very good condition so were obviously well looked after by whoever owned them and are very strong, I've never bent or broken one.

Tight sump plugs Chris? Thinking specifically about the taper plugs used in our FIRE engines, I've read about people with problems who've posted on the forum and then had the one in the Punto to deal with. I have a wee theory about why it happens. When the plug is removed the threads get a good dousing with the old engine oil. Then, when the plug is screwed back in, this oil reduces friction between the plug and sump threads to almost nothing. If we think for a minute about a "normal" sump plug they mostly consist of a shouldered bolt with a sealing washer. So when tightening one of these the "feel" is completely different. As long as the thread is in good nick you can usually spin it in with your fingers until the sealing washer is nipped then all it takes is maybe a half turn or so to fully tighten it. Your perception of the "tightening" is very positive too if you think about it. The taper plug is very different. You can start it off with your fingers but it quickly gets hard to turn so you then use your tool (Allen Key or whatever) but the plug has minimal resistance which then, over several revolutions, gets gradually harder to turn. The point is there is no point at which it suddenly gets "tight" like a conventional plug so it's up to you to decide when it's tight enough. When you combine this with the oil lubricating the thread I think many people end up over tightening them slightly. Then it sits for maybe a year - or more - and over this time the oil squeezes out of the threads and the metal plug/sump "interface" goes metal to metal so when you come to undo it the coefficient of friction is far higher than when you tightened it. Couple this lubricating effect with a heavy handed person putting the plug back in and you have, perhaps, one of the answers to why some people have problems with these plugs. - It's difficult though if you are not experienced because we come down to the old question of "How tight is tight" if you are using the MK1 human torque wrench (hand and arm) to judge.

 

[Alpine26]

thanks all, and many thanks for that link Bill. That is exactly what my mechanic told me to get, but I couldn't find one on a Google search

 

[varesecrazy]

thanks all, and many thanks for that link Bill. That is exactly what my mechanic told me to get, but I couldn't find one on a Google search

I think I own one of those..

Never used it in decades..

My 1st JTD Had a FFSH 75k miles worth of @6k miles oil changes..

The plug was so trashed (it was a flanged bolt type) that NOTHING would fit the bore .. so I ground 2 flats across the
O/D and used a massive spanner on it..

New plug worked beautifully.. Torx IIRC

 

[jimboy]

I have a set of hex and Allen t bars believe it or not from ALDI years ago that have never let me down.