Technical Steering problem

[Bubs63]

Hi there.
I have a 2008 Panda Dynamic 1.2 petrol. Just recently it's started to play up, when driving there's a 'clicking' sound behind the dash like the starter motor not engaging and then the steering immediately goes stiff. A few moments later its back to normal. This is when I'm driving normally, not in City mode and it doesn't matter what speed I'm going.
Also a different issue is that the headlights go dim and brighten up in time to the engine ticking over but it's 'pulsing', not ticking over smoothly. I believe it's called 'hunting'?
I hope someone out there can come up with some ideas as to what's happening because I'm close to selling it!!

 

[koalar]

You have a power issue not a steering problem

Do you have a multi meter

We can do a few test and try and pin it down

 

[Bubs63]

You have a power issue not a steering problem

Do you have a multi meter

We can do a few test and try and pin it down

Hi koalar,
No I don't have anything at all, I'm just an old girl with a problematic car!! The garage it was MOT'd at says an auto electrian would look at it but they charge like a wounded bull! I just don't know what to do.

 

[koalar]

Shame, worth getting a multi meter, it will serve you well both cars and home

The power steering and Lights dimming are connect, when the car thinks there isn't enough charge in the battery it shuts down the power steering to conserve power

The most common reasons are dirty connectors, slipping belts (only cars without aircon) bad earth lead, loose cable and bad battery

Earth lead and battery are the most common

Visual inspection of the earth lead, underneath the battery tray, swap battery if you have another car are probable the easiest tests without a multimeter

 

[Bubs63]

They have already changed the earth strap which is why the auto electrian is going to look at. Also, I asked them a while back to check if the alternator was working so that's been checked. Thinking about it, this problem with the steering only started after they put a new piece of exhaust on. Any connection?

 

[koalar]

They have already changed the earth strap which is why the auto electrian is going to look at. Also, I asked them a while back to check if the alternator was working so that's been checked. Thinking about it, this problem with the steering only started after they put a new piece of exhaust on. Any connection?

Not that I can see

 

[DaveMcT]

Our 1.2 did this when the alternator stopped charging properly. It was doing just enough to keep the warning light off. But not much more. That does need a test meter. I bought one recently from Lidl but it's long sold out.

 

[Bubs63]

Yes, I've been told it needs a new alternator.

 

[kmor panda]

Firstly, I would disconnect the battery and clean the battery connections. Then, before reconnecting same, check the voltage. It should be between 11.5v DC and 13v DC depending on its age / state of charge. If it is lower than that, you need a new battery.

Secondly, reconnect the battery and start the car, and with the engine idling, the voltage should be hitting 14.5 v on the DC settings, and go higher when you switch on full headlights. If it doesn't, the issue is the altenator either the belt is slipping or the regulator is at fault. To check the fault, if it is diodes / regulator or brushes, switch the meter to AC and see if the voltage hitting the battery is reading higher in AC than DC as most multimeters will 'see' the spikes and attempt to rectify it on the AC range which will give a higher number than the DC reading when there is a diode / regulator fault.

In your case, due to the behaviour (lights work / go dim, steering works / locks), I would suspect a intermittent fault in a connection / slipping alternator belt / tight bearing in the alternator - plus you have not idetified starting issues. A low battery will have trouble turning the starter motor.

 

[koalar]

Firstly, I would disconnect the battery and clean the battery connections. Then, before reconnecting same, check the voltage. It should be between 11.5v DC and 13v DC depending on its age / state of charge. If it is lower than that, you need a new battery.

Secondly, reconnect the battery and start the car, and with the engine idling, the voltage should be hitting 14.5 v on the DC settings, and go higher when you switch on full headlights. If it doesn't, the issue is the altenator either the belt is slipping or the regulator is at fault. To check the fault, if it is diodes / regulator or brushes, switch the meter to AC and see if the voltage hitting the battery is reading higher in AC than DC as most multimeters will 'see' the spikes and attempt to rectify it on the AC range which will give a higher number than the DC reading when there is a diode / regulator fault.

In your case, due to the behaviour (lights work / go dim, steering works / locks), I would suspect a intermittent fault in a connection / slipping alternator belt / tight bearing in the alternator - plus you have not idetified starting issues. A low battery will have trouble turning the starter motor.

Again more incorrect information

The military term KMOR

Keep Missile on the Rail

Might be a hint as to what's going on

It almost impossible to make so many mistakes unless it's deliberate

Especially as most of the thread are being reopened months or years after a solution has already been found

 

[kmor panda]

Again more incorrect information

The military term KMOR

Keep Missile on the Rail

Might be a hint as to what's going on

It almost impossible to make so many mistakes unless it's deliberate

Especially as most of the thread are being reopened months or years after a solution has already been found

You lied before, how are we supposed to believe you here?

 

[koalar]

Firstly, I would disconnect the battery and clean the battery connections. Then, before reconnecting same, check the voltage. It should be between 11.5v DC and 13v DC depending on its age / state of charge. If it is lower than that, you need a new battery.

11.5V is okay?

Secondly, reconnect the battery and start the car, and with the engine idling, the voltage should be hitting 14.5 v on the DC settings,

14.5V are you sure I think not

and go higher when you switch on full headlights.

Really are you sure

If it doesn't, the issue is the altenator

But it shouldn't go higher in the first place

either the belt is slipping or the regulator is at fault. To check the fault, if it is diodes / regulator or brushes, switch the meter to AC and see if the voltage hitting the battery is reading higher in AC than DC as most multimeters will 'see' the spikes and attempt to rectify it on the AC range

Have you tried this, most meter are designed to measure a sineasudal wave form at around 50 hertz, not a DC offset ripple, even though its all over the Internet you will get any answer from 0 to 30V depending on the meter used an which way round the leads are on even a working alternator

which will give a higher number than the DC reading when there is a diode / regulator fault.

Can read 30v on a fully working alternator depending on how the meter calculates the AC

In your case, due to the behaviour (lights work / go dim, steering works / locks), I would suspect a intermittent fault in a connection / slipping alternator belt / tight bearing in the alternator - plus you have not idetified starting issues. A low battery will have trouble turning the starter motor.

We already know the fix 2 months ago

We already know the original poster not have a multi meter