Technical Starting Issues - 1.9JTD

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Technical Starting Issues - 1.9JTD

hutchy95

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Hi guys!

Long time lurker - this place has been a godsend for keeping my GP on the road so far, hopefully you can help with this issue too. Had a look through the search results and couldn't find a similar problem or solution so thought I'd post.

I've got a 56 plate GP with the 1.9JTD 130bhp engine in it. I've had knee surgery recently, so has been standing for around 3 months. I started fine first time and was able to use it a couple of days before flooding in my area. The car wasn't flooded, but had to drive through some pretty big puddles. (middle of wheels in some places). the next day the car wouldn't start - the starter motor would work, but the solenoid wasn't kicking in.

To make sure it was the solenoid, we tried;
-the classic of hitting it with a wood block
-bump starting (To check fuel delivery & compression - worked)
-cranking engine manually (To check timing belt - not snapped)
-jumping & charging battery up (sufficient charge, didn't help)
-Manually earthing battery (no difference, so earth good)

Subsequently replaced the starter as the only obvious fault & had a new earth cable about 3 years ago (starter motor was killed by it then and replaced at the same time.)

Now when trying to start, the solenoid engages correctly & the engine cranks, but doesn't actually fire itself. The system makes the priming noises & lights as you'd expect.
I've checked the fuel line to the engine, which is pumping fine, put the battery on charge & cleaned terminals.

Tried connecting a mate's diagnostic system up to see if any error codes need clearing, but it won't even connect, just cycles connection modes.

Hill Holder doesn't work (Hasn't for years), but ABS, Power Steering & ESR warnings came up too. Glow plug fault shows on dash - but that's a reoccurring fault & was there when it started before.

I'm going to try updating the diagnostic system today and see if that helps, If not I'll see if I can get someone to help me bump it again - can't see why this would have changed from befor, was on jackstands for a 5 days whilst the part arrived.

If anyone knows what to work through next, or ideas of what this could be that would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance.
 
With regards to the scanning tool i have to manually select the correct scan protocol for my Sedici otherwise it won’t connect to mine. I just googled the correct protocol for my car
 
So it’s churning over but won’t fire? Any sort of smoke out of exhaust whilst you’re trying to start it?
Yeah, exactly that. no smoke or fluid from the exhaust I can see or smell - This mean its somewhere from the fuel feed to the injectors where the problem lies?

With regards to the scanning tool i have to manually select the correct scan protocol for my Sedici otherwise it won’t connect to mine. I just googled the correct protocol for my car
Managed to get this working (sorta) - had to use the ABS/SRS scan on this to get to the ECU & Stored Error codes. Came up with 4 errors:
U0019 - B-CAN Line, Wiring Fault, Intermittent (Won't clear)
B1009 - Battery Voltage, Intermittent (Cleared - currently at 12.42V, not returned)
U1705 - Receiver Radio No Node on B-CAN present (Won't Clear, Aftermarket stereo cause this?)
U1733 - Convergence Telematic Node L1 & L2 No node on B-CAN, Intermittent (Cleared)

Couldn't get the OBD II application to work - I think the protocol is ISO 15765-4 CAN-BUS rather than ISO 14230 KWP2000, but I'm not certain of the actual type (there's 4 speeds). not sure if one or two of those errors are for the port itself though.
 
Driving via puddles can kill the alternator (obviously?). And what about the infamous drains (pouring on alternators) - do you have new improved type?
Plus some connections were flooded (therefore CAN errors or earth/power related - note, main earth at battery is not the only earth/ground in the car).
Sitting for 3 months will kill/weaken the battery (quick recharging will not help much - you can still have bad battery).

So at least half of your "diagnostic" and "repair" attempts must be repeated (correctly this time).
 
Driving via puddles can kill the alternator (obviously?). And what about the infamous drains (pouring on alternators) - do you have new improved type?
Plus some connections were flooded (therefore CAN errors or earth/power related - note, main earth at battery is not the only earth/ground in the car).
Sitting for 3 months will kill/weaken the battery (quick recharging will not help much - you can still have bad battery).

So at least half of your "diagnostic" and "repair" attempts must be repeated (correctly this time).
Battery wise - It was replaced 4 years ago and is still under warranty. It has a physical indicator on the battery regarding SOC, showing green for good. It was charged for over 12 hrs on trickle charge, as well as for 4 hours on a high power garage charger. The starter on these doesn't move at all and/or dash flickers if charge is low - I've had this before. RAC also did a test to confirm that's not the issue before I went changed the starter motor.

Ground cable wise - what else is there that is individually grounded and where are they? I was only aware of the main one from the battery that can cause issues. There were no grounding issues that came up in the ECU as far as I'm aware, just this CAN-B one.
Having a look online CAN-B is all internal wiring, not external for mine as I don't have any external sensors or additional heated elements

Alternator wise - I'm not sure what you're getting at regarding the 'drains'. This is a starting issue, not a battery charge issue, it's only been re-charged due to drain from multiple failed starts & the -ve terminal being unhooked for about 5 days. I'm not a mechanic, but I think the engine needs to run for the alternator to work, no? and would a failed alternator prevent startup?

What other "diagnostic" and "repair" attempts are you suggesting here?
 
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