yeah, if i unplug the valve thing it throws up a management light.
General start of the abarth rebuild/1.4 16v conversion
- Thread starter andys cinq
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General start of the abarth rebuild/1.4 16v conversion
yeah, if i unplug the valve thing it throws up a management light.
@Dan
But the pink injectors are from n/a aren't they? If so, I do not see a problem, even better when the injectors match the engine from the point of view of the ECU. But the t-jet injectors are certainly out of range.
@All
The evap valve: this is only an auto calibration problem for the 16V ECU (IAW 18FD), the other ECUs should be fine. And it does not disable short term lambda corrections, only long term statistics and saved auto calibration corrections. So if your engine is (you think
running fine, there is no problem, but if you want the ECU to auto calibrate to a setup that is slightly off from its point of view (like 1.2 injectors in 1.4 engine), then yes, you need to take care of it I'd say
But the pink injectors are from n/a aren't they? If so, I do not see a problem, even better when the injectors match the engine from the point of view of the ECU. But the t-jet injectors are certainly out of range.
@All
The evap valve: this is only an auto calibration problem for the 16V ECU (IAW 18FD), the other ECUs should be fine. And it does not disable short term lambda corrections, only long term statistics and saved auto calibration corrections. So if your engine is (you think
running fine, there is no problem, but if you want the ECU to auto calibrate to a setup that is slightly off from its point of view (like 1.2 injectors in 1.4 engine), then yes, you need to take care of it I'd say
OP
OP
http://youtu.be/n2K6EvVYRbg
Morning everyone and this is now how its running on the 1.2 16v injectors using a return fuel rail and its loads better just need to sort out this evap valve would the cinq evap valve work on this set up or do i need a punto one?
Morning everyone and this is now how its running on the 1.2 16v injectors using a return fuel rail and its loads better just need to sort out this evap valve
would the cinq evap valve work on this set up or do i need a punto one?
OP
OP
Just connected the evap solenoid from the cinqs original set up and changed the tb back to the 1.2 16v item and it seems lots better but still got a problem
http://youtu.be/U7bgE-7bGIc
http://youtu.be/U7bgE-7bGIc
The evap valve would not help you with immediate running. Especially idle. You actually do not need an evap valve as such, soldering in a properly sized resistor should do the trick too (the ECU only needs to see that "something" is there). I am guessing that your subjective opinion is caused by the fact that with each new run you bring the engine up to temperature closer and closer.
Obviously, the ECU is still unhappy, from the videos one cannot be certain why. MAP sensor is perhaps one option, but the fluctuating idle sounds very much like one of my attempts to switch over different ECUs and getting the engine idle lean as a result. Stepper motor could be still an issue, as well as lean running now instead.
Please, pretty please, connect the tester
I actually respect your persistence in trying new things all the time and doing guess work, but it will be so much simpler to go on knowing what the ECU (thinks it) is unhappy about 
Woj is right. I also wonder if the ECU is still applying previous learning to the new set up?
OP
OP
just got back from work with the reader and im now going outside after a cuppa and plug it in and see whats going on
Very likely, but if this ECU was previously run on a healthy 1.2 16V engine then the adaptations would be minor / irrelevant. Here it needs to adapt heavily. For that it needs to start running warmed up & with a working lambda. Evap valve or replacement was already discussed
OP
OP
ok guys here is what it came up with.....stepper motor and air inlet temp
http://youtu.be/2S1L2r89TkM
http://youtu.be/2S1L2r89TkM
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Since IAT is built into the MAP sensor on this engine (isn't it?) then IAT error could be due to the unplugging game. Clear up the errors and recheck. With the stepper though, well, either it's gone, or has wrongly connected wires. It takes 4 I think, two for each two coils, and sometimes (from motor to motor and from loom to loom) this can be messed up, at least a problem like that was at least once reported on Centomania in PL. Any further details of this error on your tester?
EDIT: Also, non-functioning IAT would not have that big influence on the runnig, when it is gone a relatively safe value is substituted, and the fuel dose would only be very slightly off from what it should be. In other words, concentrate your efforts on the stepper motor
EDIT2: Another thought is, the error codes of this tester do not tell me anything, but I would also keep in mind that the "stepper error" could be concluded by the ECU from the inability to keep idle. This as we already discussed does not have to be due to a fault stepper per se, but wrong fueling too. First check would be to clear the errors, turn the ignition off then on, without starting the engine, and then check for the WL, and it on, read the codes. If the stepper error is reported after clearing and without starting the engine then it is the stepper itself that is wrong.
EDIT3: Perhaps too obvious, you did check that there are no leaks in the inlet, right?
EDIT: Also, non-functioning IAT would not have that big influence on the runnig, when it is gone a relatively safe value is substituted, and the fuel dose would only be very slightly off from what it should be. In other words, concentrate your efforts on the stepper motor
EDIT2: Another thought is, the error codes of this tester do not tell me anything, but I would also keep in mind that the "stepper error" could be concluded by the ECU from the inability to keep idle. This as we already discussed does not have to be due to a fault stepper per se, but wrong fueling too. First check would be to clear the errors, turn the ignition off then on, without starting the engine, and then check for the WL, and it on, read the codes. If the stepper error is reported after clearing and without starting the engine then it is the stepper itself that is wrong.
EDIT3: Perhaps too obvious, you did check that there are no leaks in the inlet, right?
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OP
OP
just tried 2 different tbs and both are saying stepper motor is shot just going to check resistance in the wiring
OP
OP
punto mk1 sporting
OP
OP
both stepper motors giving off around 50 ohms resistance so its looking like a wiring problem possibly :bang:
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Def getting closer now
I won't send the pinkies now, as they are only 13cc higher and the blues should do it if you got them fitted.
The advantage of the turbo ones is the extended jets that allow for a more accurate spray into the open valve...That and they have a much higher power capability but still allow a super smooth idle.
If you clear the faults, does the stepper motor error come straight back?
Post the part number for you AIT/Map sensor.... Sometimes they randomly change the pins. Essentially though, there is a shared earth, a 5V line, and two returns for a) map b) ait
//edit -- 50 Ohm is about right for each coil in the stepper
I won't send the pinkies now, as they are only 13cc higher and the blues should do it if you got them fitted.
The advantage of the turbo ones is the extended jets that allow for a more accurate spray into the open valve...That and they have a much higher power capability but still allow a super smooth idle.
If you clear the faults, does the stepper motor error come straight back?
Post the part number for you AIT/Map sensor.... Sometimes they randomly change the pins. Essentially though, there is a shared earth, a 5V line, and two returns for a) map b) ait
//edit -- 50 Ohm is about right for each coil in the stepper
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Andy, sorry for stating the obvious, but if you plan to go on an plug/unplug the ECU connector rampage to check for the connections in the loom, remember to always wait for the ECU to switch off the main relay.
Do you want somebody to look up the ECU pin numbers for the stepper, or do you have it accessible?
Do you want somebody to look up the ECU pin numbers for the stepper, or do you have it accessible?
OP
OP
checked the wires to the stepper from ecu and all read between 0.1 and 0.6 ohms and they all have continuity now im getting puzzled map/ait sensor numbers are PBT-GF30 T-PRT03/C 02793P 100KPA
map/ait sensor numbers are PBT-GF30 T-PRT03/C 02793P 100KPA
OP
OP
@kritip yes mate the light pops back up after about 5 seconds so leaving the ecu totally disconnected overnight to reset it and then give it a try tomorrow but i seem to have high resistance on the first 2 wires(0.5 and 0.6 ohms) on the stepper motor as you stand at the front looking at the connection as if you were just going to plug it in.anybody got any ideas on possible cause???other wires are 0.1 and 0.2 ohms resistance
Yes, I do have an idea, you would need to check
a. that there are no shorts between the different stepper wires, but this is obvious
b. that the right ECU pins go to the right stepper pins, there are four, and I have seen somebody reporting that mixing up looms, ECUs, and engine equipment may lead to things not being right
Not sure how to check b. exactly though. And I am not an electrician, but I do not think that the differences in the resistance you get matters that much.
a. that there are no shorts between the different stepper wires, but this is obvious
b. that the right ECU pins go to the right stepper pins, there are four, and I have seen somebody reporting that mixing up looms, ECUs, and engine equipment may lead to things not being right
Not sure how to check b. exactly though. And I am not an electrician, but I do not think that the differences in the resistance you get matters that much.
