General start of the abarth rebuild/1.4 16v conversion

[ycming]

Why not Ot's off the 1368cc superfire engines. I ran one as well

he is running the mk1 punto sporting loom,ecu, inlet therefore the sensor on it would be render useless.


That was my thinking, and it seems it has many pipe connection on it ?

 

[andys cinq]

he is running the mk1 punto sporting loom,ecu, inlet therefore the sensor on it would be render useless.


That was my thinking, and it seems it has many pipe connection on it ?

i know the sensor on it will be useless but i have aftermarket gauge as well which is what im going to plumb into the thermostat housing rather than it being connected to the radiator top hose....will look neater if it doesnt work only lost 99 pence!!!!

 

[Dan]

Up and running yet?

Dan

 

[andys cinq]

OK here are todays score draws....cinq 1 andy 0! i have fuel prime up code light goes out and then i lose fuel pressure goes to 0 but on the upside it did actually fire although briefly it did fire under its own power so alot nearer thanks to Whitz and his d4 connector,i didnt use it just checked all the wiring on his which came from a running car against mine and found there were a couple of wrong connections so wiring is all good just wondering why no fuel pressure after prime up
tried to upload video but ff doesnt support .mov from my iphone(quicktime player)

 

[fingers99]

If you can beg borrow or steal one, try another fuel pump (and check wiring -- could it be that the pump is getting power on start, but not when the key is released?).

Diagram of your fuel pressure system might be relevant.

 

[andys cinq]

If you can beg borrow or steal one, try another fuel pump (and check wiring -- could it be that the pump is getting power on start, but not when the key is released?).

Diagram of your fuel pressure system might be relevant.

i have the same set up as dan had on his cinq using the fpr on the return side as i have a non return fuel rail.... and i wouldnt know how to put a diagram on here and the pump is getting power on prime up but as soon as that phase ends the pressure vanishes and doesnt return even when cranking

 

[fingers99]

Wiring, then. Somehow the pump is connected to the starter, not the "run" side. Thus it'll fire up OK, but will die as soon as you release the key. Meter will confirm.

 

[andys cinq]

http://youtu.be/BfcfpfnvGF0

video of attempted start up

 

[andys cinq]

Wiring, then. Somehow the pump is connected to the starter, not the "run" side. Thus it'll fire up OK, but will die as soon as you release the key. Meter will confirm.

think u misunderstand...turn the key till u get dash lights and pump primes and code light goes off then dont move the key and the fuel pressure disappears totally not even got to the actual turning engine over key position
oh didnt u get my pm fingers as i have had the studs u needed for the last couple of weeks!!!

 

[fingers99]

Still likely to be electrical -- or the pump, though. Bandwidth prevents me from seeing the vid at the moment.

 

[andys cinq]

im leaning towards the pump being the problem certainly not as quiet as the spi pump but once im back at work tomorrow i can get my multimeter on it on wednesday as everything at work this weekend but only got 7 more days work then im off for 9 days so hoping i will get it finished then :slayer: well thats the plan as i can see some light now its actually fired

 

[whitz]

on mine the FPR doesnt hold pressure after it stops priming, i kept tweaking fuel pressure on prime to about 50psi and let it have 2 full primes before starting otherwise i can crank away for a while

Ash

 

[Dan]

Id go with the fuel regulator not holding pressure for some reason. Check the connections again with arcs diagram in my thread. Cheap ebay regulator? i swapped mine for a sard.

If you prime once pressure should go up to say 2.5 bar while priming and then hold at 2 bar for a for a minute or so at least. Certainly shouldnt be dropping to 0 as ive mentioned before.

Getting closer though.

Edit, i may be wrong there then. Mine held pressure, i checked before dismantling.

 

[andys cinq]

Got it right in one dan its a cheapo off ebay just havent got my tools at home to fit the sard i bought off you,thats a job for wednesday if we dont get the snow they have forecast for the whole of the half term week
Also i dont think the semi flat battery and booster pack are giving it enough turn over speed got to charge them both at work tomorrow no chance im running my own bill up when i can do it free at work

 

[woj]

Well mate, putting aside the whole story about why you need an external FPR (I guess because of the non return thing), I think the whole thing is easy to sort in steps:

- undo fuel lines at the pump, turn the key over, you get a fountain - pump is good and priming works, no fountain, then check with VM if the ECU tries to prime,

- if all goes well, do the same thing with unconnecting feul feed at the rail,

- both fuel pump and coils are switched on by the ECU during priming and once it sees cerain RPM (450 IRCC, but do not quote me on this), if the pump is not working then either (a) the ECU is coded, (b) it does not see the RPM, CPS is not working, or its signal does not get through

- your Injector WL is ON I can see on the vid. GET THE DAMN TESTER (you say you have access to one) / DIAGNOSTICS HOOKED UP TO IT! The cable is 20 quid or so, the software is free, I assume you do have a laptop or can borrow one.

(I will not ask things like: are the coils/injectors connected in the right order, or is the timing set up correctnly and not shifted by 180 degrees or something like that, I assume you got this sorted out).

 

[andys cinq]

Been outside this evening and changed over the fpr from the cheap ebay one for dans genuine sard and it now holds pressure at 3 bar spot on and even after 10mins its still reading over 2 bar then checked for spark on turning over which i have so i thought ok i have everything required so here goes and nothing and after speaking to kristian and dan we can only assume at the moment that the injectors are not letting fuel into the engine for some reason anyway enough for today and tomorrow im grabbing the reader from work and plugging it in see if anything comes up......will be surprised if it does though.
on sunday im going to pop the injector rail off and check to see if they are firing or not.wanted to see if the plugs were wet but didnt have my long extension bar at home
good evening as one more problem solved and the next step getting the fuel thru the injectors will be the final one and then its just a matter of finishing touches and tidy up then :devil::devil::devil:

 

[BlueDan]

Getting closer, little by little!

Good luck finally getting it running, it's satisfying to have something done and working when it's been messing you around this much.

 

[whitz]

i had an issue like this due to ecu by i tested the injectors on the car and attempted to start the car

simply run a direct 12v feed from battery (not constantly) and tap it a few times on the battery when there is pressure in the rail, a tap or 2 on the battery should put enough fuel in for it to fart, not too much mind as it can revv up fast

you can also stick the 12v to the injector loom clip and you would have 2 injectors fire in fuel



Ash

 

[woj]

...we can only assume at the moment that the injectors are not letting fuel into the engine for some reason

At this stage you are indeed close. They are either not connected for some reason (in this case the tester should tell you something I am guessing) or they are all fully knackered (perhaps because of a short you had earlier), which is probably unlikely (though I have seen this before). Connection can of course be checked with a good VM, just unplug one injector and see when turning over.

 

[purf]

This may have already been suggested but is the fuel cut off switch been activated somehow? There is a button under the dash on the firewall in the centre ???

Just my 2p's worth