After electrickle terminology, thread-sizing is one of my weak points. Does anyone know the thread of the speedo-cable at the gearbox?
I'll give you a clue; does M18 x 1.5 sound right?
Ta.
I'll give you a clue; does M18 x 1.5 sound right?
Ta.
After electrickle terminology, thread-sizing is one of my weak points. Does anyone know the thread of the speedo-cable at the gearbox?
I'll give you a clue; does M18 x 1.5 sound right?
Ta.
You would indeed be correct and the thread on the speedo drive has a taper on it like a pipe fitting designed to form a seal. It may well be a standard metric pipe thread size but I do not have any data to hand.
If you are checking out thread sizes then a handy way to do it is to have a set of standard size bolts to hand with known thread pitch sizes. M6x1 , M8x1.25 & M10x1.5 etc.
M10 fine as used on the cylinder head nuts drops down a pitch size from 1.5 to 1.25mm so if you put a standard M8 thread next to a fine M10 the threads should mesh perfectly even though the bolt sizes are different.
This method is also quite handy if you want to check those odd bolts in the garage to see if they are metric.
If you are going to 'electronic pulses' for your speedo reading, you will probably have to adjust the pulses to obtain the accuracy you are seeking. You may also find that you have to REDUCE the pulses to increase the speedo reading. I have an electronic speedo in my Abarth style instrument cluster, and this anomaly nearly cost me a 'ticket' as my speedo was under-reading as I hadn't realised that this 'quirk' existed.
The thing I'm going to use allows the original Speedo and cable to be used simultaneously.[emoji2] As I said ..this won't be stylish!.
A thread-file (available in either metric or imperial variants) is always a very useful tool to have in ones tool-box---it can also be used to clean out fine splines.
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If you are checking out thread sizes then a handy way to do it is to have a set of standard size bolts to hand with known thread pitch sizes. M6x1 , M8x1.25 & M10x1.5 etc.
M10 fine as used on the cylinder head nuts drops down a pitch size from 1.5 to 1.25mm so if you put a standard M8 thread next to a fine M10 the threads should mesh perfectly even though the bolt sizes are different.
This method is also quite handy if you want to check those odd bolts in the garage to see if they are metric.
However the info that comes with it has no mention or guidance of how to adjust and calibrate the unit so it has just sat on the shelf.
Yes but no, it doesn’t give any instructions on any fitment so how far out on a PCD do you fit the magnet to trigger the sensor? The further out the slower the recorded speed etc?!?!
From what I've learned about these sensors there's either a pulse created or not. The distance setting is quite small..a millimetre or two; go too far out and there's no induction created.
If the settings of the speedo are based on the average circumference of a motorbike wheel you could work out roughly the variance on your car.
Ahh that's the magnet to sensor tolerance...…..and yes I agree that potentially the circumference of the wheel has to be taken into the consideration however when you have a sensor and magnet how far from centre do you fit them as from what I understand the closer to the centre the faster it fill think you are going because how else can define speed other than the times the magnet passes the sensor??
Or am I totally missing something?
I'm with you now.[emoji3] Maths could work it out. another weak point of mine.... But I would fit the sensor and magnet on a convenient place on the wheel..is there one? Compare indicated speed with satnav on a straight, flat road. If the Speedo reads under, move the pickup closer to wheel hub and vice-versa. ....no......that doesn't work either,,,.......