Technical Smell + noise?

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Technical Smell + noise?

Is this correct? The boot seems to scrunch up a lot as the slider moves... I put the one closest to the carrier on, threaded the pin in and then popped the outer boot on. Image%20(5).jpegImage%20(6).jpeg
 
The slider hasnt got enough movement to get the caliper over the pads even when it's fully retracted?
 
Update - managed to get it all back on.
Car is driveable, I'll get the garage to check it over tomorrow.

Phew!!!! Thanks all, really appreciate it
Looks perfect.

I knew you could do it with a little encouragement.

Huge well done.

Jack
 
I haven't been jumping in on this because we've been out for most of the day today helping with a family member recovering - quite nicely I'm glad to say - from mental illness.

There's not much to add to the excellent info being offered here and I just want to let you know Gman that I can really empathize with the feelings of frustration and despair? that I know you must be feeling, I've been there and coped with it. It's a normal part of trying to do the more difficult repairs on cars. Your perseverance is to be admired. I still sometimes find myself sitting on the ground beside the car in utter despair, with some broken or damaged part in my hand, thinking "why me"? I'm glad you are a "cup of tea" man. That's exactly what I do, it doesn't sort the problem but often allows time to calm down and focus the mind.

The technique being described by Jack is a common one used often to remove bearing seals. If you study the ring on the new seal can you not see where you will need to lever against the old one? It may well be rusted in - from the look of it that's quite likely I would say - and you may have to get quite physical with it. Possibly you could get a screwdriver (I'd use a flat bladed type) in from the other side, I mean through the hole where the slider pin goes, and pick up on the edge of the ring that way? Then you could tap the handle end of the screwdriver with a hammer to dislodge it? I've worked on a few of these calipers but never had to renew these seals so I don't know how difficult it is from first hand experience.

What part of the country are you in? maybe one of us could help if we are anywhere near?

Finally I would say that over the years I've rebuilt many calipers with varying degrees of success. They never last as long as a new caliper though and some have failed again quite quickly. These days, especially if I come across a caliper where the piston is binding I would just go for a rebuilt caliper from my local motor factor. As mentioned by someone above a new caliper from the dealer will likely cost an arm, a leg and, possibly an even more sensitive part of your anatomy! Rebuilt calipers from a trade factor are a good option at an affordable price - usually - but I'd be wary of a "cheapie" from an unknown internet source. Prices seem to vary by make of vehicle rather than the complexity of the caliper. For instance a Honda or Volvo caliper will likely be more pricey than a Fiat, Ford, or Vauxhall one (and I'm talking about Factor sourced units here).

Because I've not been following this all day I'm not sure if you've now got a caliper carrier you can screw the slider pin into? Either the old one with a repaired thread or another one altogether? I'm asking because I see Jack advising that you could just reassemble the thing as it stands with it's damaged/missing rubber seals and drive it to the garage. The rubber seals are there to stop crud getting in and jamming/corroding the slider, these seals shouldn't affect the way the caliper works for a short distance like this. However DO NOT TRY TO DRIVE IT ANYWHERE if you cant secure that top pin properly. The caliper will pop out of the bottom pin and you'll very soon find you've no brakes!

So, if you'd like, do let us know, just roughly, where you are. Maybe one of us could drop round and give it a poke for you. With a two meter long screwdriver of course!

Kindest regards
Jock
 
OOPS! must have been typing when you sent your post! well done for getting it all back together. Good luck at the garage tomorrow(y)
Thank you!
The caliper isn't binding, so I'm going to leave both of them for now as they both work as intended. The slightest bit of trouble and I'll be getting new ones to save any more headaches.
 
Well done for persevering with this.

It's a good example of the reality gap between the procedure as described in a workshop manual and the procedure undertaken in real life. A simple, bland instruction such as "remove the bolt securing the caliper to its mounting bracket" can lead you into all manner of hidden horrors, particularly on an older car with significantly corroded parts.

You've likely saved some money by doing this yourself, but the real value is in the experience you've gained as a result.

Keep up the good work; we're always here to help you.

The skillset needed to do what you have done is fast disappearing; if this had happened in a franchised dealer's service bay; you'd likely have got a new caliper, new caliper bracket, new bolts, and a big bill. Right now, most folks see "make do and mend" as a relic from a WWII poster. But one day, when both parts and money are harder to come by, our society will have to ditch its throwaway attitudes and rediscover these skills. I believe it's important that us old timers pass on as much as we can to those who will come after us. They may have to live in a harsher world where not everything is instantly available off the shelf.
 
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Well done for persevering with this.

It's a good example of the reality gap between the procedure as described in a workshop manual and the procedure undertaken in real life. A simple, bland instruction such as "remove the bolt securing the caliper to its mounting bracket" can lead you into all manner of hidden horrors, particularly on an older car with significantly corroded parts.

So very true JR. The garage trade has a very poor, and in my view only partially deserved, reputation for ripping people off. Whilst there are undoubtedly - as in most areas of business - some "dodgy" practices going on, the problem you mention above makes estimating on older vehicles very difficult.

Something quite simple, like what has happened in this instance, can really screw up an estimate. Then you've got to decide, do I go down the route of attempting to repair the damaged component (which may be a considerably cheaper option than just throwing parts at the job but stands the chance of a failed outcome) or, do I just fit all new parts - which has the advantage for the workshop that all the warranty risk is then carried by the component manufacturer.

I've worked in workshops where older vehicles, especially if they looked neglected or even if you got a "feel" for them - especially if the customer seemed to be of a confrontational disposition - were priced at the "book" price plus 50%. This then gives you considerable scope to cover when things go mildly pear shaped (when things go completely "square" you are never going to be able to take this into account) and also offers the possibility of currying favour with the customer by reducing the price back to the "book" price if all goes well. When I became a managing foreman I didn't like this approach and would instead explain to the customer, if an awkward looking job was in the offing, what the possible problems might be and try to prepare them to face a substantial bill if things didn't work out well. Occasionally I would loose a job by doing this but I think the majority of customers appreciated being treated like "grown ups" and I very rarely had customers shouting at me in reception! I would also never ever go more than a few quid over the quoted price without ringing the customer for permission. I think this worked well as we had a solid core of customers who returned again and again - which, if you are a small set up, is exactly what you want.

News of Dame Vera Lynn's death just came up on the TV. My father spent his war in Burma and told me how she was so very highly thought of by all the lads who fought out there. I believe she was the only "big" star who actually went out there in person. For me, that's another link to my parent's generation passed into the timeline. I'm feeling quite emotional. RIP Vera, and thanks.
 
I can only echo others, well done by persevering with this (y) I totally agree that most garages these days are just turning into fitters, old thing off, new thing on. My era was of the time when things were fixed, certain things were made, I’m sure Jock will remember :) Anyway Gman this is a learning curve, you are not going to forget this in a hurry.......;)
 
Thanks all, I won't forget this!
Car is with the garage for the tyres, they are going to check both calipers over (the N/S slider pins was stuck solid in the thread, moves freely though) but it drove fine, so I think it's all okay for now. The tracking being done should help an awful lot too.
 
Then you've got to decide, do I go down the route of attempting to repair the damaged component (which may be a considerably cheaper option than just throwing parts at the job but stands the chance of a failed outcome) or, do I just fit all new parts - which has the advantage for the workshop that all the warranty risk is then carried by the component manufacturer.

In today's world, there's an additional dimension to this that wasn't there when we started out, and that's the liability risk. Almost all large companies, and many smaller traders, now take an ultra cautious view to avoid even the smallest the risk of possible litigation. This will preclude even attempting to repair parts; they'll want to fit something new that comes out of a sealed box with a label of conformity. For example, Brembo parts come boxed with a safely seal and a unique QR code which can be scanned and checked online as a protection against counterfeit parts.

All this makes it harder to offer the customer a cheaper job by repairing their existing parts. Customers also have some responsibility for the way things are going; a propensity to sue whenever there's even a whiff of a possibility of compensation most certainly doesn't help matters.
 
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In today's world, there's an additional dimension to this that wasn't there when we started out, and that's the liability risk. Almost all large companies, and many smaller traders, now take an ultra cautious view to avoid even the smallest the risk of possible litigation. This will preclude even attempting to repair parts; they'll want to fit something new that comes out of a sealed box with a label of conformity. For example, Brembo parts come boxed with a safely seal and a unique QR code which can be scanned and checked online as a protection against counterfeit parts.

All this makes it harder to offer the customer a cheaper job by repairing their existing parts. Customers also have some responsibility for the way things are going; a propensity to sue whenever there's even a whiff of a possibility of compensation most certainly doesn't help matters.
Yes JR, I remember my sister's first encounters with this attitude when she got married to her lovely American feller and went off to live in the states. Now it's an attitude all too often encountered over here and I believe we are the poorer for it! - Unless, of course, you are a lawyer!
 
Garage phoned. Tyres are done, calipers are both fine. Can't do the tracking today as the lower wishbone bushes are beyond use (they really are, it was on my list)
Decided to let him do that and do tracking at the same time when he can next week, I'll let him deal with the old bolts this time! 2 new arms, new tyres, brakes, struts.

It's going to be like a new car! (A very expensive first 6 months too! But at least I know it is pretty well sorted now for a very long time.)
 
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The bottom arms are a pain to do, but there are some wrinkles. You are supposed to fit new anti roll bar drop links but mine were already new and the retaining nuts are noted for spinning so I didn't want yet another new pair.

The fix was to jack up the hub carrier (against the road spring) to make space. Lots of red grease on the front bush got the new arm into place. Not a fun job but less bad that I had expected.

Do check your back axle for rust. There is loads of info on the forum for that one. In a worst case scenario you can now get pattern replacements for £120.

Costs piling up? Yes, but think what you'd be paying out each and every month for a new(ish) car.
 
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