The car isn't idling well
And almost stalling
When hot the exhaust start shaking
OK, I have misunderstood. Sorry.
New coil pack and plugs, new leads, and plugs all done
MES has a way of looking at coils, and testing sparks of each plug, but I have never used the relevant test. This is in the engine tab / menus. If the readings there are OK then it has to be compression or fuelling surely. The values you will observe are not exactly the same, and they fluctuate a little. Ours are all very similar however on all parameters that can be seen. The only time I have ever had similar its been dirty throttle body responsible, but could be fuel injectors. Daffo was 69hp engine and the inlet manifold was running in oil and mayo, which caused similar issues. I cleaned after removing the throttle body with clean rag in wire. Catch cans are now fitted on two of our 3 1.2s and they catch a lot of muck. EVen the dirtiest oiliest one however runs really well. All the emissions gubbins, like the evap solenoid have not ever affected idle on any of mine, they just knock it into limp home if the go wrong so I dont think its that. The throttle body gasket I feel is a weak point and if its been overtightened could be leaking air. Throttle body could be faulty and aftermarket parts are a lottery I think. Id find a scrappy and ask to try another one, if it fixes it, buy that. Stuck in this position i would get and fit an in line fuel filter too. Daffo went through a bad patch so got all the bits excepting injectors. Again I would try a scrappy and ask to try a substitution. I know our local independent yard would facilitate this. Ultimately compression check, replace all ignition parts and check fuel injectors. Reading things on
MES should show if one cyclinders ignnition or fuelling is different to the others. The only other suspect would be damaged wiring. Maybe also remove the flame arrestor from the short breather hose airbox to cam cover pipe and wash it through or replace it.
E10 does not agree with this engine in
my experience. It
can run on it but running two cars in convoy up a decent hill (daughter 2 uses E10 and I dont) its definitely easy to drive away, and the faster car is still not a livelything unless revved hard. Any 319
should be able to run on E10 but I find its effect is horrible. It does run and idle fine on E10 as you would expect. My youngest persists and her car has adapted, there is a learning period for the ECU to adjust and her car does run OK and is smooth but performance.... oh deers. I will not have the stuff in my engines. If performance is reduced I wonder what other effect are going to happen. I just love blowing her into the weeds in the older car. I would certainly add E5 for a while and try and get things running well before trying it again. If you have a full tank then try a a fuel stabiliser. Its just one less thing to consider.
If the coil pack was an eBay job I would also be suspicious of that. I do find that the 1.2 69 is sensitive to plugs and coils for no obvious reasons I can see. Plugs that look OK and have not been a lot used just dont seem to cut it.
I have read (Haynes) think that the wrong oil causes stuttering and misfiring. I dont really see how, but its what they say. Change the oil is near top fo the list, but I know you already have.
I might disconecting the back box on the exhaust if it will come off in case loose baffles are interfering. I think there have already been suggestions about covering the exhaust and observing. I do check that the gas flow is nice and even on tickover you can feel and if there is something wrong.
We have three of these 319 1.2s and they are all quite different, Ive found before that this applied to other makes. Differences are surely enough to tell/ I could tell which car Im in out of of our three 1.2s blindfolded. But, while the smoothmess and power seem to vary quite a lot, they all tick over stock steady at 850rpm.
When Daffo played up I was begining to depair when I did another all round cleqn up and another set of plugs, and it just went back right and never misbehaved again. Im sorry not to be able to say it was one thing or another.
The old addage used to be if it has compression, fuel and a spark its going to run. These days poor idle really has to be ignition or injectors. The ignition side seems to be the most likely culprit. I may have kept a coil pack from one or other car which I changed. If I do still have this you would be welcome to have it FOC and see if changes anything. I keep a new coil pack on the shelf so wont need it. Ill try and look tomorrow and let you know.
One last thing I would check at some point is that the fuel lines look perfect anywhere where exposed. If all else fails the fuel filler might be something to look at. Maybe try remove the cap and fit the little filling funnel and run the car so you know its not that causing issues. I doubt it would be it but who knows.
