General Clutch Recommendations

[Adam1984]

Hello,

What brand of clutch would you recommend for the Fiat Panda Pop 1.2 Petrol.

There are a lot of brands, but the most expensive are LUK and Sachs.

Any ideas or thoughts?

 

[KPat]

Exedy Clutch Kit FIK2065

 

[Adam1984]

Exedy Clutch Kit FIK2065

Thanks.

So you would choose this over LUK or Sachs?

 

[brokendonkey]

LUK are better than exedy IMO.
i have an exedy in one of my cars and just put a valeo in the other last week.
if iys not a fore breathing monster of a car, Just buy whichever is the cheapest decent brand you have heard of.

 

[Adam1984]

LUK are better than exedy IMO.
i have an exedy in one of my cars and just put a valeo in the other last week.
if iys not a fore breathing monster of a car, Just buy whichever is the cheapest decent brand you have heard of.

How is the Valeo, as that is another option am looking at.

There are cheaper version/brand such as Blue Print/Apec and Borg and Beck. Can't say I have heard of the latter..

 

[Herts Hillhopper]

Whatever your local motor factor stocks and your mechanic recommends… “it’s only a Panda” (rather than a super-powerful sports car) and “any” will work well enough.

For what it’s worth, this Forum’s preferred parts supplier stock the Valeo one:

Clutch Kit - 500 1.2, 1.4 Panda 1.4 6000628557

www.shop4parts.co.uk

The Flat Workshop near me supply the genuine Fiat one for around £160. The total cost for that plus fitting is nearly £700, plus VAT (so about £840)… it’s a full-day job. https://www.fiatworkshop.co.uk/fiat_500_1.2_clutch_removal.shtml

 

[koalar]

Full days job?

On a ramp

With air tool

With a transmission jack

Less than 10 minutes to remove the clutch and bit longer to put it all back

It's a completely different kettle of fish but still less than a day with bits of wood and rope on a drive, if everything goes well it takes me about 4 hours

 

[Herts Hillhopper]

Full days job?

On a ramp

With air tool

With a transmission jack

Less than 10 minutes to remove the clutch and bit longer to put it all back

It's a completely different kettle of fish but still less than a day with bits of wood and rope on a drive, if everything goes well it takes me about 4 hours

They quote 4.5 hours… and the stages (detailed along with photos from that link) suggest a bit more that 10 minutes. But I’ve not tried it myself

 

[koalar]

They quote 4.5 hours… and the stages (detailed along with photos from that link) suggest a bit more that 10 minutes. But I’ve not tried it myself

Same engine and gearbox

 

[Herts Hillhopper]

Same engine and gearbox

But maybe a bit more room? For the Panda/500 they removed rather more bits before even being able to reach the gearbox bolts. But as I say, I’ve not tried (last clutch I changed myself was in a 2CV, where you don’t even need to raise it off the ground.

 

[koalar]

But maybe a bit more room? For the Panda/500 they removed rather more bits before even being able to reach the gearbox bolts. But as I say, I’ve not tried (last clutch I changed myself was in a 2CV, where you don’t even need to raise it off the ground.

Nope it's exactly the same as I change the clutch in my pandas

There quite a lot of short cuts you can take, you can leave the inner drive shafts in so you don't have to drain and refill the gearbox, you don't have to undo the hub nut, the only real pain can be the off side drop link

One stop Crewe quoted £360 last year

 

[koalar]

The original AP is very good, the bit point is very progressive, long and the pedal very light and smooth, unfortunately there now guarantee a replacement will be the same, manufacturers often sell different different specification parts when dealing direct with the factory, AP is what stamped into the parts one was original with 170K miles on it


I fitted a transmech which is a rebranded blueprint, work fine but the clutch pedal movement from on and off is very short

It takes a bit of readjusting before you get used to it

I am fine with it but other people struggled so I wouldn't ever fit another

Personly I would go with Valeo as that what my local motor factor stock, they don't want return

 

[The Panda Nut]

Ive never had cause to complain about blue print stuff. So far, always a perfect fit.

 

[koalar]

Ive never had cause to complain about blue print stuff. So far, always a perfect fit.

Works fine, just doesn't didn't feel the same, but is a sample size of 1

Blue print are now part of the Bilstein Group

 

[koalar]

Curious as to why the clutch needs replacing

They normally last way more than 64K miles

 

[KPat]

Curious as to why the clutch needs replacing

They normally last way more than 64K miles

It's not so much the mileage as how much use or abuse it gets.

 

[Adam1984]

Curious as to why the clutch needs replacing

They normally last way more than 64K miles

I am getting grinding noises when I press the clutch down, burning smells and still getting really slow and poor acceleration issues, so am presuming the clutch maybe slipping.

Another notice is that revs are going high, but not much acceleration on the mph side

 

[koalar]

I am getting grinding noises when I press the clutch down, burning smells and still getting really slow and poor acceleration issues, so am presuming the clutch maybe slipping.

Another notice is that revs are going high, but not much acceleration on the mph side

Grinding noises when the clutch is down
Plus slipping
Plus smell
Could be clutch and release bearing

But then again it's had so many part thrown at it and so many thread opened some appear to stop without any resolution, jumping in without reading the other 400 post plus answers it's hard to know what going on

Burning smell,.plus poor economy,.plus poor acceleration could be binding brakes and clutch release bearing

MAP sensor was covered in oil,.poor economy,.poor acceleration, plus burning smell could equally be cracked breather pipe, fawled MAP and input bearing

And so on

We need to not guess could be this that on other and start testing and eliminating things


Did this ever get fixed by the way

find a safe, quiet, bit of road go about 10 mph press the clutch pedal down and select 5th gear raise the revs to around 3K and hold it there release the clutch pedal, if the engine struggles or stalls, it's likely fine, if the engine keeps running the clutch is slipping

 

[Adam1984]

Grinding noises when the clutch is down
Plus slipping
Plus smell
Could be clutch and release bearing

But then again it's had so many part thrown at it and so many thread opened some appear to stop without any resolution, jumping in without reading the other 400 post plus answers it's hard to know what going on

Burning smell,.plus poor economy,.plus poor acceleration could be binding brakes and clutch release bearing

MAP sensor was covered in oil,.poor economy,.poor acceleration, plus burning smell could equally be cracked breather pipe, fawled MAP and input bearing

And so on

We need to not guess could be this that on other and start testing and eliminating things


Did this ever get fixed by the way

View attachment 477749


find a safe, quiet, bit of road go about 10 mph press the clutch pedal down and select 5th gear raise the revs to around 3K and hold it there release the clutch pedal, if the engine struggles or stalls, it's likely fine, if the engine keeps running the clutch is slipping

What's the input bearing.
I had a new Map Sensor (Bosch) fitted about 2 months ago.

Yes this sound is now fixed. I got a new alternator and doesn't sound like this anymore.

Will try that clutch thing you suggested on way to work this morning.

 

[koalar]

Very confusing, the noise is there with the auxiliary belt removed and the alternator is not spinning

And a new alternator fixed it