General Sensors, Oxygen and Engine Temp

Currently reading:
General Sensors, Oxygen and Engine Temp

Adam1984

Member
Joined
Mar 2, 2025
Messages
331
Points
137
Location
Merseyside
Went for a trip down the motorway this morning to test two things with MultiEcuscan, I tested the Engine Temperature as well as the Oxygen Sensors. I understand that I need a new replacement thermostat, but can anyone help and advise on the oxygen sensor readings please.. and is this what has been causing my slow acceleration and rough idle problems....
 
Model
Pop 1.2
Year
2015
Mileage
63000

Attachments

  • PXL_20251108_214932379~2.jpg
    PXL_20251108_214932379~2.jpg
    2.7 MB · Views: 22
  • PXL_20251109_101714809~2.jpg
    PXL_20251109_101714809~2.jpg
    3.5 MB · Views: 8
  • PXL_20251109_101741617~2.jpg
    PXL_20251109_101741617~2.jpg
    1.9 MB · Views: 9
  • PXL_20251109_101730501~2.jpg
    PXL_20251109_101730501~2.jpg
    3.9 MB · Views: 9
  • PXL_20251109_101902983~2.jpg
    PXL_20251109_101902983~2.jpg
    4.1 MB · Views: 8
  • PXL_20251109_101853310~2.jpg
    PXL_20251109_101853310~2.jpg
    3.5 MB · Views: 7
  • PXL_20251109_101853310.jpg
    PXL_20251109_101853310.jpg
    4.1 MB · Views: 5
  • PXL_20251109_101841133.jpg
    PXL_20251109_101841133.jpg
    4.2 MB · Views: 6
It's no good what you did there. Select just the 'Lambda 1 signal (Pre-Cat.)' and 'Lambda 1 signal (After-Cat.)' then go to 'Graph' menu and press 'Start', with the engine running of course. Then press 'Stop' when the graph screen is full. That will show you how things are. You need to have a graphic kind of like this in my photo.
If you have bad values, replacing the sensors won't make any difference. You need to fix what's causing the bad values. You only need to replace the Oxygen sensors when they don't send no signal or when their heating circuit it's broken. When that happens, ECU tells you, there'll be stored errors about it.

The Pre-Cat. Oxygen sensors should oscillate between 0.05 - 0.8 volts regularly (about every 1 second) at idle in a good running engine.
The Post-Cat. Oxigen sensor should oscillate as the pre-cat sensor, regularly but with less amplitude. When the air-fuel mixture is perfect, the O2 voltage value is exactly 0.45 V. So in a healthy engine the after-cat O2 sensor oscillates about between 0.4 - 0.5 V.
 

Attachments

  • Lambdas and Step Motor graphic 2025.jpg
    Lambdas and Step Motor graphic 2025.jpg
    307.6 KB · Views: 9
It's no good what you did there. Select just the 'Lambda 1 signal (Pre-Cat.)' and 'Lambda 1 signal (After-Cat.)' then go to 'Graph' menu and press 'Start', with the engine running of course. Then press 'Stop' when the graph screen is full. That will show you how things are. You need to have a graphic kind of like this in my photo.
If you have bad values, replacing the sensors won't make any difference. You need to fix what's causing the bad values. You only need to replace the Oxygen sensors when they don't send no signal or when their heating circuit it's broken. When that happens, ECU tells you, there'll be stored errors about it.

The Pre-Cat. Oxygen sensors should oscillate between 0.05 - 0.8 volts regularly (about every 1 second) at idle in a good running engine.
The Post-Cat. Oxigen sensor should oscillate as the pre-cat sensor, regularly but with less amplitude. When the air-fuel mixture is perfect, the O2 voltage value is exactly 0.45 V. So in a healthy engine the after-cat O2 sensor oscillates about between 0.4 - 0.5 V.
Yeah, this is what I get and the red says it's a closed loop constantly.
 

Attachments

  • PXL_20251109_112352619.MP.jpg
    PXL_20251109_112352619.MP.jpg
    6.8 MB · Views: 7
So have to have a warm engine, so let the car run for say 15 mins. And then do what you say above?
No need, the sensors have their heating system. Just wait a little until the revv drops to idle value, 750 RPM.

And what do you think about engine temp?
The temp sensor is good and the engine was heating up. I don't know if you drove enough so the engine would hit the working temperature or not.
 
No need, the sensors have their heating system. Just wait a little until the revv drops to idle value, 750 RPM.


The temp sensor is good and the engine was heating up. I don't know if you drove enough so the engine would hit the working temperature or not.
I drove for about 40-50 mins and was down a motorway both ways at a constant speed of 70mph. And it only got to about 75-78 but this was with the heater not on...
 
I drove for about 40-50 mins and was down a motorway both ways at a constant speed of 70mph. And it only got to about 75-78 but this was with the heater not on...
Nevermind the heater. It means that the thermostat is broken, indeed. You need to replace it.

Yeah, this is what I get and the red says it's a closed loop constantly.
You didn't do good there, you've selected 'Lambda 1 status (Pre-Cat.)' instead of selecting 'Lambda 1 signal (Pre-Cat.)'. Do it again and select 'Lambda 1 signal (Pre-Cat.)' and 'Lambda 1 signal (After-Cat.)'.
The after-cat voltage tells the engine is running rich. You might clean the sensors and ECU contacts, that should help. Also, clean the electrical contacts on the coils and injectors, too.
 
Nevermind the heater. It means that the thermostat is broken, indeed. You need to replace it.


You didn't do good there, you've selected 'Lambda 1 status (Pre-Cat.)' instead of selecting 'Lambda 1 signal (Pre-Cat.)'. Do it again and select 'Lambda 1 signal (Pre-Cat.)' and 'Lambda 1 signal (After-Cat.)'.
The after-cat voltage tells the engine is running rich. You might clean the sensors and ECU contacts, that should help. Also, clean the electrical contacts on the coils and injectors, too.
I don't have a lambda 1 signal (after-cat) option on my MultiEcuscan.

This is all I have...
 

Attachments

  • PXL_20251109_114902593.jpg
    PXL_20251109_114902593.jpg
    3.8 MB · Views: 6
Back
Top