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Seicento Seicento Sporting MS in faded red :)

Introduction

Seicento Sporting Michael Schumacher in faded red :)

Just picked up one of these for a 70 mile a day commute and so far, great fun.

It's a 2001 Y reg, 80k miles, full service history, new rad, alternator, battery, handbrake cables, clutch and clutch cable and exhaust were done by the previous owner.

So far ( 20 miles in ) i've fixed the following ...

Seized cooling fan and a blown fuse, WD40 on fan bearings and a new fuse fixed that.

Leaking sunroof - removed all the bolts and siliconed up the rubber washers, new gaskets made from bike inner tube and silicon greased the seal. No more leaks.

Things i might fix ...

Both fog lights are not working, one definitely due to water through a cracked lens and the other .... probably got bored years ago.

Clunking from the steering, presume / assume it's either track rod ends or balljoints / arb bushes.

Paint - it's a faded sorry state, good enough condition, just looks like FIAT forgot to put suntan lotion in the original paint :)


The only thing i'm stuck with now are what tyres to get, have seen you can get Pirelli P6000 175 50 R15 or 165 60 R14 in more choices, am inclined to go for the higher profile as it's cheaper and will probably dent the mpg less. I take it there are no issues with using a 165 60 R14 tyre on that wheel? Miata tyre calculator reckons it's within tolerance

175/50-14 3.4in 10.4in 20.9in 65.6in 965 0.0%
165/60-14 3.9in 10.9in 21.8in 68.5in 925 4.3%


Bit more searching reckons 185 50 R14 will fit - Maxxis do their MA Z1 in that size and that'll do fine. Will get 4 of those ordered and fitted next month - i'll play with what's left of the P6000s for now
I'm aware this won't sharpen the handling but that's fine.

Since everyone on forums likes pics, here's a few of it, nicknamed it 'Shooey' which seems entirely apt. Outside is faded in many places, once i get some time i'll buzz the DA over it and give it a few coats of decent wax but i suspect the paint has faded beyond help. It is utterly manky inside but now the leaking roof is fixed ( and its no longer carrying a dog around) i'll get in there with an aquavac and make it a lot nicer :)

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What a difference NOT having a leaking rocker cover makes. No marks on the ground wherever i park and the engine seems to run better.

Ordered this lot today from unto.pl ..... thank the lord for Chrome and the translate feature!

Wspornik stabilizatora Seicento, Cinquecento 46411026 27,00 zł 2.00 54,00 zł
Wahacz Cinquecento, Seicento / przód lewy MS26748 73,87 zł 1.00 73,87 zł
Wahacz Cinquecento, Seicento / przód prawy MS26747 73,87 zł 1.00 73,87 zł
Końcówka drążka Seicento, Cinquecento UNTO16008 25,78 zł 2.00 51,56 zł
Tulejka stabilizatora Seicento, Cinquecento 46427721 22,87 zł 2.00 45,74 zł
Tulejka stabilizatora Seicento, Cinquecento 46427722 9,07 zł 2.00 18,14 zł

Rough translation is £85 inc delivery for 2 inner ARB bushes, 2 outer ARB bushes, 2 ARB bush plates, 2 lower front arms and 2 track rod ends.

If my ARB bush plates are ok and come off without destroying themselves, i'll clean them up, give them a lick of anti rust paint and stick them up for sale here - no doubt someone will use them.

Bloody bargain tbh.
 
All arrived - no problems at all but I think i need engine mounts too, i've had a look / listen and i'm pretty sure the rest of the banging is from the rear box mount - given the age of the car and the mileage it has done I'm inclined to replace the lot.

I have a 'wobbling' at tickover and a constant knocking through 1st and 2nd gear until i get up to speed - after a bit of searching it appears the rear box mount is what causes this.

http://www.unto.pl/poduszka-skrzyni-biegow-fiat-seicento-p-342.html

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http://www.unto.pl/poduszka-skrzyni...to-09-11-oryginal-46765087-46514434-p-89.html

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http://www.unto.pl/lapa-poduszka-si...nto-1100-4674319146515031-46407194-p-344.html

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Does that look like the right mounts for a Seicento 1.1 Sporting?
 
Ordered anyway - 65 quid inc delivery for all 3 mounts is so cheap it wasn't worth arguing about. That big engine mount alone here is getting on 50 quid!!

Seems daft whilst it's up in the air getting suspension rattles sorted out not to fix the rest of the stuff that's broken.

A knock free Sei with tidy handling will be a pleasant change :)
 
Cheers Blu :)

If you use Google Chrome, it translates the unto.pl site for you as you go through the ordering process - it's pretty simple to follow. Always a pain when you have no choice but to use a UK supplier and get bent over for the privilege.

I reckoned having followed your thread, i was going to end up in the same boat and since i'm doing this myself and once i start i'm not stopping ... seemed best to just assume the worst.

Now i just need to work out where to rekerb the wheels so they don't make the car shake like a parkinsons sufferer when you get over 65mph :D On the plus side, being forced to keep it under 65 does wonders for the fuel economy.
 
Well that's the lower arms swapped out but I'm no longer running an arb :D bolts were fecked and no way to save them. off to do the engibe mounts now as they arrived today.

Tried the track rod ends but tbh they are rusted on so well they're part of the rack :)
 
Changed out the rear engine mount and side gearbox mount - both were well and truly shot. Side mount had torn completely away from the metal and the rear box mount had disintegrated. Much easier removing the entire rear mount and bracket to change it over.

Decided the other engine mount was too much effort to fit today and tbh I'm knackered. Spannering without a pit or ramps is hard on the joints.

On the plus side, the knocking in the lower gears has gone although there's still a light 'clonk' on lock and I'm pretty sure that's top mounts - another day for those too.
 
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Much more feel in the steering now and if i'm honest - i can't tell that the handling has suffered for the lack of the ARB ... if anything it rides better.

Headlight rubber covers now fitted ( thanks CC1) - shame they weren't fitted originally, they might have kept some of the dust and crap out of the lenses!!
 
Feeling brave having fitted the front lower arms and engine mounts myself .... I've bitten the bullet and ordered new top mounts, front and rear shocks and two front wheel bearing kits. Bearings are for spares, i can just hear the faint occasional thrumming from the offside one although the worn top mount(s) may be transmitting extra NVH into the car.

120 quid delivered for the lot :)

Given that all the shock absorber bolts are nice big fat ones, I'm not going to have any issues getting those undone.
 
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just out of curiosity, all these bits you bought from unto.pl

What brand bits did you get? I'm particularly interested in the front arms as my car has had cheapy ebay ones fitted and bushes are going already a few months later. I don't really want cheap pattern parts again but the price of all the bits on unto.pl can't be ignored.
 
that would be great. It is a bargain and i know quite a few members have used them now without any issue. I was tight on cash and wanted car ready for stanford in the summer so fitted some £20 ebay jobbies to get the MOT and the bushes on way out already. I could just replace the bushes but i think the balljoints are probably gonna go soon as they are such rubbish quality.

But i don't want to replace them with cheapy ones again now, i know from s4p or ecc i can get good quality ones but both are more expensive.
 
Today is the day - top mounts and new shock absorbers arrive mid morning so it's one more trip down to the garage to spend an afternoon spannering .... hopefully that's the last of the rattles and bangs sorted and the ride / handling fixed too.

Last thing to sort is the two front wheel bearings but i'll be getting my mate to do that as he's got a press and the right access / tools.
 
Cheap **** italian design *$$*£*!

Managed to get one strut and spring out, finally got the rusted top mount nut off the old shock to get the spring out. Old top mount was wrecked and the rubber spring cap / metal mount plate weren't sat properly. Spring swapped to new shock and all refitted without too much drama.

Other side, the lower strut to hub bolt was seized ( still is ) solid - given up for the evening and have left it soaking in PlusGas. Have dug out the blowtorch from the loft and will go and give it some fresh attention in the morning.

Partial success in that the clunking from the drivers side top mount has now gone and the steering feels much more weighted but it's glaringly obvious that the passenger side needs doing just as badly and that the shock on that side is totally shot.

Hey ho - round II in the morning :)
 
Cheap **** italian design *$$*£*!

Managed to get one strut and spring out, finally got the rusted top mount nut off the old shock to get the spring out. Old top mount was wrecked and the rubber spring cap / metal mount plate weren't sat properly. Spring swapped to new shock and all refitted without too much drama.

Other side, the lower strut to hub bolt was seized ( still is ) solid - given up for the evening and have left it soaking in PlusGas. Have dug out the blowtorch from the loft and will go and give it some fresh attention in the morning.

Partial success in that the clunking from the drivers side top mount has now gone and the steering feels much more weighted but it's glaringly obvious that the passenger side needs doing just as badly and that the shock on that side is totally shot.

Hey ho - round II in the morning :)


if you can get in with a grinder you could consider cutting through the nut to the point before it hits the bolt then get it off with mole grips so a new nut is all thats needed
or cut the bolt of completely and replace seeing as there wont be much left of it anyway?
next time you are in a scrappy get some spares as if the shockers are still on the car they will be scrap anyway as they will have been drained with a cutting tool
 
This is properly stuffed. The smooth part of the long bolt has corroded inside the hub and has seized in - pretty sure a blowtorch will expand the hub just enough to break the seal and with an old nut on the end of the bolt i'll be able to tap it carefully out. Might need a few heat cycles but that's fine :)
 
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