Technical Remote door locking not working

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Technical Remote door locking not working

Speedwell

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My remote door locking went briefly intermittent then stopped working completely for both keys. I have checked the battery in the key body and it's reading 3v. Does anybody know where the aerial and electronic gubbins that sends the power to the central locking is located, so I can check for loose wires and anything obvious. Central locking still works ok by turning the key in the driver's door.
 
This happened to me a couple of weeks back. With the remote battery being 17 years old, I changed it, which seemed successful, for a few days.
I then found to be intermittent, working fine everywhere, except back at home.
Someone suggested it may be parked close to a 'smart home', as apparently some of the smart stuff uses frequencies close to the fob frequency. I moved the car one car length up the road, no problems since.

The fob transmits a new code each time, using an algorhythm. The car receiver sits waiting for any of the next 3-5 signals. If it does not receive a signal, such as out of range, or if the buttons have been pressed when away from the car, the fob will transmit a code further along the list. Usually pressing the button 3-4 times will allow the car to recognise the sequence as its own, and reset. Worth a try.

The car's receiver is not a known issue, so worth exploring external issues first. A vehicle locksmith should be able to check the fob is transmitting.
 
Does anybody know where the aerial and electronic gubbins that sends the power to the central locking is located, so I can check for loose wires and anything obvious.
All internal to the body computer

The body computer also controls the lock, lights and indicator

Never known one to fail

Buttons on remote fail all the time

Broken joint at the tip of the remote is common where the board goes thin
 
Thank you for your replies, here is what happened when I tried them
Multiple operations had no effect.
LED flashes when button is pressed
Worked fine inside the car, also worked ok through the driver's window but very intermittent through passenger window and windscreen.
I think we can rule out smart house, as ours is not smart and next door is not occupied at present. Also didn't work in LIDL's car park.
Any conclusions from that please ?
 
Thank you for your replies, here is what happened when I tried them
Multiple operations had no effect.
LED flashes when button is pressed
Worked fine inside the car, also worked ok through the driver's window but very intermittent through passenger window and windscreen.
I think we can rule out smart house, as ours is not smart and next door is not occupied at present. Also didn't work in LIDL's car park.
Any conclusions from that please ?
Working only from close by suggests weak battery. Was the replacement battery fresh, and a good brand, or been sitting in a drawer for ages. (Always annoying when they come in pairs and you only need one, then the other is no good when eventually needed.)
Battery connections inside the fob may just need a light clean.

A local auto locksmith may be able to test the signal strength.
 
That's great

The closer you are the better it works

Classic symptoms of a weak battery

You can't always tell with a volt meter, you have to measure under a load



Everything as per @portland_bill

I have struggled with home bargain batteries, bought some for my camera takes one picture and switches off same as the original. It's easy to assume it's something else, but changed for ALDI batteries and it's been working fine for months.

Fairly sure there's no seperate antenna unlike the fiat vans which runs behind the A pillar trim, if you have no joy with a different brand battery I will pull out the schematics for the body computer
 
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I tried a new battery, admittedly not a posh make but 3.3v and no different. It's not just a distance thing, if I aim it through the glass, it works, if I aim it at the meta , it doesn't. It seems the metal is shielding the aerial ( or whatever receives the signal). I recently had a new window actuator in the drivers door although did not immediately stop working. Could this be relevant ?
Thaks in advance for any help.
 
I tried a new battery, admittedly not a posh make but 3.3v and no different. It's not just a distance thing, if I aim it through the glass, it works, if I aim it at the meta , it doesn't. It seems the metal is shielding the aerial ( or whatever receives the signal). I recently had a new window actuator in the drivers door although did not immediately stop working. Could this be relevant ?
Doubt it

There's no seperate antenna shown on any circuit diagrams or component location diagrsms

If you are sure the transmit circuit has enough volts then the next place to look would be the receive circuit

 
Thanks Koalar but do you know where the receiver circuit is
Inside the body computer as per post 4

Just above the accelerator pedal

Coded to the car you can't just replace it

Immobiliser, key code, remote code are all controlled and stored here
 
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It's radio waves you don't have to point at the car

Range is normally better if you hold the key higher

Some people report better range if the key is extendeded, never tried myself

Do you have better range closing than opening

If you have access to jump leads is there an improvement jumpered to another battery

Do you have an FM/Bluetooth gadget installed to play music from your phone
 
Inside the body computer as per post 4

Just above the accelerator pedal

Coded to the car you can't just replace it

Immobiliser, key code, remote code are all controlled and stored here
Thanks for that. I'll see if I can find any loose wires or corroded contacts in that area when the weather abates.
 
The problem will be in the key fob circuit board. When the BCM (body computer) is damaged enough to upset the antenna, the car wont run at all.
 
Thanks for all your replies, it miraculously came back to life yesterday and, so far,🤞 is working normally.
 
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