Pandahpdeano
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Is it possible to replace the rear subframe bushes without fully removing the frame and brake pipes. Is just lowering enough to knock old bushes out and replacing with new.
Technical Rear subframe
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Technical Rear subframe
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If you mean the pivot bushes they will have to be pressed out. It's easiest to unbolt the mounting brackets and take the lot off. But both of mine were fine and they look like they'll outlast the car.
Disconnect hand-brake cables, ABS wires and hydraulic connections. The latter are easiest if you cut the subframe to chassis hoses and unscrew the remnants from the metal pipes.
Put a thin plastic bag under mater cylinder cap to reduce fluid loss.
With the subframe out of the ways its easy to heat the flare nuts to clean off corrosion degraded plastic coating. Treat with high solids copper paste for protection. If you try to turn the flare nuts as they are now, metal they will probably shear off the pipes giving you a whole lot more grief.
Disconnect hand-brake cables, ABS wires and hydraulic connections. The latter are easiest if you cut the subframe to chassis hoses and unscrew the remnants from the metal pipes.
Put a thin plastic bag under mater cylinder cap to reduce fluid loss.
With the subframe out of the ways its easy to heat the flare nuts to clean off corrosion degraded plastic coating. Treat with high solids copper paste for protection. If you try to turn the flare nuts as they are now, metal they will probably shear off the pipes giving you a whole lot more grief.
Pandahpdeano
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Thanks for your input I'm off work all next week so I will tackle it your way. Cheers
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The bushes are angled so access to the bolts is difficult. Getting the heavy axle aligned to refit the bolts will also be a struggle.
The three bolts either side holding the pivot brackets to the car body are easy to remove and replace. Just support the axle on a trolley jack and remove two bolts from each side leaving the easiest one to reach as the last one.
Obviously all the other connections will have been already undone.
The flare nuts don't much heat - just enough to soften the bundy pipe plastic coating. The issue is caused by a small amount of aluminium corrosion under the plastic that jams the flare nuts. Protect the car body with a plumber's heat mat and use a small blow torch to soften the plastic. The threads are unlikely to be seized it's the metal pipe we want to avoid twisting. I cut the rubber hoses as I was replacing anyway, but you might not need to be so brutal.
When done, protect the newly stripped metal with paint or a good stiff copper paste.
Granny & eggs mode ON -
I supported the car with axle stands under the sill jacking points. This needed a wood block with a slot to fit around the sill flange. I made the blocks with two pieces of 2"x1" screwed to a 3" x 2" (50 x 25 to a 50 x 75) leaving a gap for the flange.
Chock the front wheels (both sides). Lift the car under the centre of the axle and put the axle stands and blocks under the sill jacking points.
Unless you are lucky with the flare nuts, you will need two new flexible hoses which are attached by spring clips. You will also need a proper flare nut spanner. Ordinary open ends will probably round off the nut.
- Granny & eggs mode OFF
I used a gas blow lamp on the flare nuts but that's really overkill. They don't much heat - just enough to soften the bundy pipe plastic coating. Protect the car body with a plumber's heat mat. The issue is caused by a small amount of aluminium corrosion under the plastic that jams the flare nuts. Protect the newly stripped metal with paint or a good stiff copper paste.
The three bolts either side holding the pivot brackets to the car body are easy to remove and replace. Just support the axle on a trolley jack and remove two bolts from each side leaving the easiest one to reach as the last one.
Obviously all the other connections will have been already undone.
The flare nuts don't much heat - just enough to soften the bundy pipe plastic coating. The issue is caused by a small amount of aluminium corrosion under the plastic that jams the flare nuts. Protect the car body with a plumber's heat mat and use a small blow torch to soften the plastic. The threads are unlikely to be seized it's the metal pipe we want to avoid twisting. I cut the rubber hoses as I was replacing anyway, but you might not need to be so brutal.
When done, protect the newly stripped metal with paint or a good stiff copper paste.
Granny & eggs mode ON -
I supported the car with axle stands under the sill jacking points. This needed a wood block with a slot to fit around the sill flange. I made the blocks with two pieces of 2"x1" screwed to a 3" x 2" (50 x 25 to a 50 x 75) leaving a gap for the flange.
Chock the front wheels (both sides). Lift the car under the centre of the axle and put the axle stands and blocks under the sill jacking points.
Unless you are lucky with the flare nuts, you will need two new flexible hoses which are attached by spring clips. You will also need a proper flare nut spanner. Ordinary open ends will probably round off the nut.
- Granny & eggs mode OFF
I used a gas blow lamp on the flare nuts but that's really overkill. They don't much heat - just enough to soften the bundy pipe plastic coating. Protect the car body with a plumber's heat mat. The issue is caused by a small amount of aluminium corrosion under the plastic that jams the flare nuts. Protect the newly stripped metal with paint or a good stiff copper paste.
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Pandahpdeano
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Thanks guys that's a good guide really appreciate it. Also I already have a good heat gun and blow torch. ??
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Normally I would agree, but in this case a heat gun risks damage to paint on the body shell around the brake pipe end. It really is tucked away. Saying that, a plumber's heat mat should be enough protection. The issue is the sheer volume of hot air these things generate. I wasn't too keen so went with a quick blast of butane gas torch. The amount of time needed to get the pipe hot enough was just a matter of seconds.
My main concern was car body damage from heat blow-by. A chef's creme brule torch (with heat mat) would be OK and a mechanic's electric induction heater would be perfect.
What ever method you use, be VERY careful to not drip hot brake fluid onto yourself. When scrabbling under the car, it's all too easy to forget which way is down.
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