Technical Rear knocking on panda 100hp

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Technical Rear knocking on panda 100hp

mtsw

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Our panda 100HP as started to develop a knock when driving on badly surfaced roads.
Its probably the rear shocks,but not 100% sure, any other ideas welcomed?.
looking for new ones is proving to be a headache.
Don.t want to fit the Fiat one's again.
So searching around online found these Bilstein REAR Shock Absorbers
Product code: 19-142265 £45.36 each
on this site anyone know if they will fit?. or know of a better deal.
http://www.europerformance.co.uk/pages/products/product_info.mhtml?product=3962385
 
Assuming you've checked all the obvious stuff like unsecured seat belts or rear seats banging about, it can be one of two things: either the rear bump stop has come off and is rattling around in the coil spring or the mounting bush at the top of the rear shock absorber has failed (or both).

I ordered the Bilsteins but after nearly 3 weeks Europerformance found out the factory were not producing any until July so supplied me the Sachs instead. They were fine and have a prober 360 degree bush - I would imagine the Bilsteins will be the same.
 
Assuming you've checked all the obvious stuff like unsecured seat belts or rear seats banging about, it can be one of two things: either the rear bump stop has come off and is rattling around in the coil spring or the mounting bush at the top of the rear shock absorber has failed (or both).

I ordered the Bilsteins but after nearly 3 weeks Europerformance found out the factory were not producing any until July so supplied me the Sachs instead. They were fine and have a prober 360 degree bush - I would imagine the Bilsteins will be the same.
Yes checked all, including rear hatch rubber buffers.
Have noticed the rear spring bump stops are very loose in the retaining holes, but still in position.
 
If your car is under warranty book it in to the local dealer for them to check it out. If not buy extended warranty for another 3 years.
 
Bump stops just pop into top of spring plate so not surprised they are a bit loose.

If rear shock bushes are gone a visual inspection will generally show it. You may also find the shock can be moved whilst the car is jacked up.
 
If the bush eyelets are ok then yes, it could well be that the bump stops are needlessly wobbling around.
Easy remedy :
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057.jpg

Ignore the portion i removed from the polyurethane foam part of the bump stop, i did this purely to compensate for a lowered ride height with new springs.
The main fault of the top nipple part of the bump stop is, it has a neck too long for it's application hence, over time, they work loose, its just down to the fact that it holds still for a time because of the girth of the neck rather than the tight "click fit that it should have been from day one, - ideally with a suitably shorter length.
This is where the modified stainless steel washer comes in handy ;) making the fit against the underside a MUCH FIRMER fit !!
 
If the bush eyelets are ok then yes, it could well be that the bump stops are needlessly wobbling around.
Easy remedy :
056.jpg

057.jpg

Ignore the portion i removed from the polyurethane foam part of the bump stop, i did this purely to compensate for a lowered ride height with new springs.
The main fault of the top nipple part of the bump stop is, it has a neck too long for it's application hence, over time, they work loose, its just down to the fact that it holds still for a time because of the girth of the neck rather than the tight "click fit that it should have been from day one, - ideally with a suitably shorter length.
This is where the modified stainless steel washer comes in handy ;) making the fit against the underside a MUCH FIRMER fit !!

Got around to checking the rear suspension this morning and found the shocks and bushes to be OK .
I then decided to modify the bump stops which seem to sit loose in the retainers.
So instead of a stainless steel washer that randybits used( Couldn't agree with him more about the design of the stop, its dreadful)
I used some thin high density waterproof foam (The kind they use for gaskets) and a rubber washer,
slipped the rubber ring washer over the retaining lug to make a tighter fit in the retaining hole.
Then cut a circle of the foam to slip over the whole surface of the bump stop
The reason I didn't use a metal washer is the constant movement of the bump stop will( I think ) eventually rub the sealant away and rusting will start even if the washer is stainless steel.
The foam will suppress the movement of the bump stop but still allow it to move.
So far on a quick test drive over our pot holed speed bump roads down here in South Wales the rumble as gone.
Long term cure? we will have to see.
Couple of photos, sorry about quality but it was pissing down.
you can see the white foam ring above the stop.

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That's great, i probably would have used something similar if i had something like you used lying around but i just improvised whilst in the middle of changing the suspension over.
So effectively, have you stiffened the fit of the bump stops adequately ? mine were rock solid after i modded ours, and very much doubt they will start to rattle again unless the polyurethane degrades first, and as for rust, there's no sealer on those upside down turrets, just paint, so can't see it being a problem in the future as, it's not directly in the path of the high wear area of the wheel arches.
 
That's great, i probably would have used something similar if i had something like you used lying around but i just improvised whilst in the middle of changing the suspension over.
So effectively, have you stiffened the fit of the bump stops adequately ? mine were rock solid after i modded ours, and very much doubt they will start to rattle again unless the polyurethane degrades first, and as for rust, there's no sealer on those upside down turrets, just paint, so can't see it being a problem in the future as, it's not directly in the path of the high wear area of the wheel arches.
Yes they are a lot more tighter fitting now, but long term fix? we will have to see.
The knock seems to have gone .
The shock absorbers and bushes were in surprisingly good condition for a car with 36000 miles on it
One thing I did notice on taking the springs out of their housings was the bottom suspension arms where the springs sits, is starting to show signs of surface rust,
looks as if water and grit sit in the springs base plates.
So I will slap some waxoyl underseal on when I get a chance .
If your keeping car long term I would advice to check this out.
 
One thing I did notice on taking the springs out of their housings was the bottom suspension arms where the springs sits, is starting to show signs of surface rust,
looks as if water and grit sit in the springs base plates.
So I will slap some waxoyl underseal on when I get a chance .
If your keeping car long term I would advice to check this out.

Yep, thought of that, and i have waxed the springs and cups, what needs to be done is, a hole drilled at the lowest point to let any water out that might get in :idea:
 
Bit of a thread resurrection..

I have a pair of rear Bilsteins on their way. Is fitting as easy as I'm expecting, or does anyone have any tips / experience that would be useful??

Thanks in advance.
 
Bit of a thread resurrection..

I have a pair of rear Bilsteins on their way. Is fitting as easy as I'm expecting, or does anyone have any tips / experience that would be useful??

Thanks in advance.
Very straight forward easy Job, here's a tip for you , when you remove the rear springs .give the lower suspension spring retaing well a coat of hamerite or rustproofer(where the lower part of the spring sits) mine was starting to rust ,water seems to gather here
(drain holes become blocked.).
Changed both sides in just under an hour.
 
Will let you know of course, it's only the bog standard stuff going on but I'm hoping for an improvement. Problem is that the suspension is shot at the moment so a comparison is tricky.

Do I need to remove the springs to change the shocks??
 
Thanks. Had assumed that, but was a bit confused by something else that I read... Looking forward to the improved suspension..

Happy new year!

have you gone for the front OE blistein's aswell? as they arent expensive only £55 each. So althogether, fronts and rears only comes in at £200. Much cheaper than the 615+ for the koni sport/eibach combination
 
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